Archive through November 01, 2007
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I thought about doing my auger too, but thought better of it.
Kraig (or other photo collectors): Any 782 pix of Kirk dual Bosch coil installations?
I just got Kirk Engine's dual coil and ignition set to put on my 782. As I look it over, and not being a mechanical genius, I'm wondering if there are better places than others to mount the coils and run wires, etc. to keep it looking neat, and to not drill mounting holes into anything serious.
Anyone have a few pictures of their or someone's installation of their dual coils on a 782 or similar?
I'd appreciate it.
Dale
I just got Kirk Engine's dual coil and ignition set to put on my 782. As I look it over, and not being a mechanical genius, I'm wondering if there are better places than others to mount the coils and run wires, etc. to keep it looking neat, and to not drill mounting holes into anything serious.
Anyone have a few pictures of their or someone's installation of their dual coils on a 782 or similar?
I'd appreciate it.
Dale
Charlie, that's my QA42 you posted, no Slip-plate on the auger, just the inside of the auger housing and discharge chute.
Matt, you should have it at least on the throat area of the auger housing where it leads into the discharge chute.
Dale, not that I can think of....
Matt, you should have it at least on the throat area of the auger housing where it leads into the discharge chute.
Dale, not that I can think of....
Matt, I also like to coat the area where the discharge chute mounts, the bottom of the discharge chute and the discharge chute clips. This keeps the discharge chute from freezing to the auger housing and helps it rotate smoothly.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Thanks Kraig, I'll put some more on when I return home. It's hard to think about snow when it's 80 degrees out, but I'll observe the seasons change from fall to winter as I fly north
On a Quietline it probably won't help to put that on the area where the chute rotates, the engine heat keeps it clear of ice, it's pretty easy to knock the slush off before driving into the garage.
Matt, on my 125 it doesn't freeze up while I'm using it either but it does freeze up after. No heated garage to store it in and there's always some moisture between the parts that freezes up. Have a safe trip!
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- Allen Schumacher
Charlie, you send any walnuts(?) thru your thrower yet this year?
Allen S.
Ummmm, I plead the 5th!
Ummmm, I plead the 5th!
Does anyone know if the front axle from an 1862 with power steering can be used for the "super steer" upgrade on a 149? The FAQ says to use the axle from a tractor without power steering. I'm curious what is different about the axles between tractors with and without power steering. Thanks!
Cody S.
A shameless plug for Slip Plate,
If it slides, rolls, turns, twists,
spins or sticks – it’s a job for SLIP Plate®!
SLIP Plate® grand products are
the original, premium dry-film, graphitic lubricants perfect for use
on your sliding friction, sticking
and build-up applications. Use
where traditional oil or grease lubricants fail or not recommended. Fast drying, easy to apply coatings that reduce sliding friction, premature part failure and buildup without hurting the environment. Available
in convenient to use formulas that can be sprayed, rolled or brushed
and bond to any clean metal, wood, concrete and most plastics.
A shameless plug for Slip Plate,
If it slides, rolls, turns, twists,
spins or sticks – it’s a job for SLIP Plate®!
SLIP Plate® grand products are
the original, premium dry-film, graphitic lubricants perfect for use
on your sliding friction, sticking
and build-up applications. Use
where traditional oil or grease lubricants fail or not recommended. Fast drying, easy to apply coatings that reduce sliding friction, premature part failure and buildup without hurting the environment. Available
in convenient to use formulas that can be sprayed, rolled or brushed
and bond to any clean metal, wood, concrete and most plastics.
Along with graphite paint, you can do this if your really really careful!!!!!!!!
http://cubfaq.com/thrower.html
http://cubfaq.com/thrower.html
Attn: Cody What I use for chute coatings
I don't know what anyone else uses (I've heard of PAM cooking oil spray, olive oil, etc.)
I think one of the guys here mentioned that he used the liquid car wax, so last year I saw a squeeze bottle of some on sale at Farm and Fleet, so I bought it, and while still warm in the fall, took a couple of tough paper towels, squeezed on a few tablespoons and really slathered the stuff on. I kept the paper towels pretty saturated so when I wiped over a couple of times you could see the layer I was leaving behind, not like you were waxing your vehicle, thicker than that, and I didn't rub it off. I got down into the whole inside of the chute, onto the discharge impeller and all areas where I figured that snow would come in contact with once it had been accelerated to throwing speed. I didn't do the screw on the auger or the inside of the scoop housing, but I don't see how that would hurt any to do. Man it really threw a long distance, especially the nice crystally stuff like you saw in that wonderful picture. Heavy wet didn't throw quite as far, but still much further than I'd ever thrown it before waxing, and still about freezing temps, and the fluffy powder snow (what little we got of that type) had so little mass that as soon as it left the chute it sort of blew all over. The heavy wet didn't clog up the chute nearly as much either, in my opinion. I coated it again during the winter when I had the shed warmed up (maybe being warm isn't the secret, but it seems to make it go on easier) and I did it again this fall and I still have used only 1/2 of the bottle I bought for a few bucks. Doesn't seem to hurt anything, smells pretty good when you put it on. Just my two cents worth.
I don't know what anyone else uses (I've heard of PAM cooking oil spray, olive oil, etc.)
I think one of the guys here mentioned that he used the liquid car wax, so last year I saw a squeeze bottle of some on sale at Farm and Fleet, so I bought it, and while still warm in the fall, took a couple of tough paper towels, squeezed on a few tablespoons and really slathered the stuff on. I kept the paper towels pretty saturated so when I wiped over a couple of times you could see the layer I was leaving behind, not like you were waxing your vehicle, thicker than that, and I didn't rub it off. I got down into the whole inside of the chute, onto the discharge impeller and all areas where I figured that snow would come in contact with once it had been accelerated to throwing speed. I didn't do the screw on the auger or the inside of the scoop housing, but I don't see how that would hurt any to do. Man it really threw a long distance, especially the nice crystally stuff like you saw in that wonderful picture. Heavy wet didn't throw quite as far, but still much further than I'd ever thrown it before waxing, and still about freezing temps, and the fluffy powder snow (what little we got of that type) had so little mass that as soon as it left the chute it sort of blew all over. The heavy wet didn't clog up the chute nearly as much either, in my opinion. I coated it again during the winter when I had the shed warmed up (maybe being warm isn't the secret, but it seems to make it go on easier) and I did it again this fall and I still have used only 1/2 of the bottle I bought for a few bucks. Doesn't seem to hurt anything, smells pretty good when you put it on. Just my two cents worth.
Charlie
Thanks for the info. I am goin to look around for it and get some to put onmy blower and ee what it does for my own proof. I used mine for about 3 snow falls last year and was fed up with it because it would only throw the snow about 3 feet away and I would end up having to take about half a bite and that was in 1st low.
Thanks a lot Charlie
Cody
Thanks for the info. I am goin to look around for it and get some to put onmy blower and ee what it does for my own proof. I used mine for about 3 snow falls last year and was fed up with it because it would only throw the snow about 3 feet away and I would end up having to take about half a bite and that was in 1st low.
Thanks a lot Charlie
Cody
Charlie - A worthy note to add about your http://cubfaq.com/thrower.html post is that the pulley used in your blown up pulley pic... DO NOT use pulleys meant for electric motors such as the one that is shown. That was a die cast pulley never meant for the torque of a snowblower/engine. It wasn't the speed that killed the pulley but the torque. That very pulley on an electric motor application would stand 3450 RPM.
