Archive through September 17, 2007

[dfrisk]

KEN - Todd's article in RPM said to only engage the PTO @ the lowest idle the engine can pickup the load at, which is pretty slow on the 982. And I only engage the mower maybe 2-3 times while mowing which takes 2-1/2 to 3 hrs w/982.

TREVOR F. - WHY on earth do You want tubeless tires on the frt of Your CC? Yes, You can run tubeless tires but I can't think of a worse application. If a tire gets low and You turn sharp the tire bead WILL come off the rim. And probably will not reseal. Some people will flame Me I'm sure because they haven't had problems but I was the tire Buyer at FARMALL for three years and the biggest complaint We had constantly was the fact We used tubeless front tires. I'm 99+% sure You'll regret tubeless tires and end up putting tubes in them. Only tubeless tires I have left on ANY of My three CC's is the front tires on the 982, because they haven't bothered yet. First time something happens to one of them they BOTH get tubes!

 

[dfrisk]

TOM P. - On that rear frame cover You need to mount red taillights inside the cover....use the IH cut-out as Your tail lights!

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - Now that you mention it , I do have to air up my 127 front tires. When I was mowing with it every week it was one tire then the next week it was the other tire ... then repeat. I cleaned those rims good! and they still let me down.

I went around a curve one night in a 65 Buick Special and half the air came out of the rear tires but the GTO that was after me didn't make the curve

I can't go into details here (oops, I need to redo that gif)

That would set off the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> cutouts but I'm not going to tell Tom that after he did such as nice job on it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, you have my email address, you can go into the details there.......

Denny, that would really highLIGHT those nice <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> cutouts that Tom did!

 

[kweaver]

Kraig -

 

[jthompson]

Dennis,

I'm still learning the cub world so pardon my ignorance. I see what you are saying about the tire coming off if it gets low, but when a tire is low it's easy to just put some air in it. When I have a flat with a tubeless tire, whether it be on my 4-wheeler, truck, or whatever, I just plug it and blow it back up. Most of the time I can get the plug in before it goes flat and I usually have to add very little air. On the other hand, if you have a flat with a tube it is MUCH more of a hassle to fix. Seems the tubeless tire would be the lesser of two evils. Seeing as how I'm about to buy tires for 3 cubs I'm definitely open to being shown the error of my ways. I'm all about less hassle.

 

[dfrisk]

JIM - Tube the tubeless tire....the thicker casing will help prevent thorns, sticks etc. from puncturing the tires causing slow leaks, and the tube will ensure the seal between the bead of the tire and bead of the rim and keep the tire on the rim if it gets low.
I've got the original frt tires on My '68 #72, with tubes....they don't leak...I check their PSI maybe 1-2 times/year.

KEN - Dad had a '66 Buick Special, actually the Skylark upgrade for a work car for a couple years.....the POWERHOUSE "FIREBALL" 225 CID V-6, 2-speed Powerglide...4-door hardtop.... Nice car! Not fast...not quick, didn't get very good MPG at all....but had a BIG gas tank and rode like You were sitting on a featherbed! Neat car...drove it a lot before I got My '70 Nova in '73

 

[lbuttke]

Got a bit of pre-plowday work done over the weekend. I got the moldboard all shined up.

Decided to plow under the corn patch Sunday.

Not to bad of a job considering all the trash,

 

[tcbusch]

Lonny,
Did you rig that up with a remote control? Now that would be cool.

Jim,
I had a bad set of set screws once. I just drilled them out. It was a quick fix and it was easy to do. I used a drill bit that fit inside the hex head of the set screw so I wouldn't wreck the threads. Make sure you use oil ans go slow. You do not want to break off the drill bit. Then use a 3 jaw puller and grab onto the edge of the pulley. Use a couple of large hose clamps to hold the jaws in place.

 

[lbuttke]

Remote control,

Now that would be nice, I could just sit back and watch the tractor do all the work.

 

[tfarren]

Well, i might give tubless a try, no one around here will humor putting a tube in my tires, this is the weirdest thing I have ever seen... Not even tire shops will do it.

My bolens G-14 is tubeless up front, and never a flat or leak even. I think my case 646 is as well.... As well as my Kubota B6100E come to think of it...

 

[agitch]

Trevor, try a walmart tire center if one is close. they always do mine with tubes. dennis is right, you can't go wrong with puttin tubes in.

 

[dfrisk]

TREVOR - All the tools necessary to install Cubbie tires only cost about $40, Two small tire irons, valve core tool and the fishing tool to hold the valve stem thru the valve stem hole in the rim. And actually two large screw drivers are enough to mount front tires.
Back when I was in practice when Dad was still farming I could pull an inner tube, patch it and reinstall it almost as fast as I could change the wheel on the rack or wagon. We didn't have air tools back then, and it seemed like every wagon had a different bolt pattern, so n spares!

 

[jthompson]

Lonny,

I notice your plow does not have the wheel/cutter or whatever its called that mounts in front of the blade. What exactly does this little wheel do? Does it matter if it's not there? Reason I ask is that I have my eye on a plow that doesn't have this wheel. Wondering if I should buy it.
Note: as you can tell I know NOTHING about plows.

 

[rthomley]

Jim,
Its called a coulter and it cuts the soil and trash just in front of the plow share. Most of us have to take it off because of the trash. With such a small plow and just a 10 or 12 inch width we don't have very much clearance to properly turn the trash and cover it with soil. So usually it plugs up which is very frustrating. I doubt you will have much problem without one. They probably work best in sod, but then we are talking about another problem with these small plows.

 

[lbuttke]

Jim.

Ron is correct about the colter.
The best thing they are at doing is pluging the plow if there is alot of trash in the feild you are plowing.
As far as useing them in sod, well that all depends on how old the sod is.
When I plowed my garden for the first time I had to remove the colter as all it would do is hold the plow out of the ground.
The sod was over 30 years old and very hard to plow.

 

[sblunier]

If you can get your coulter to stop plugging, you will plow better with les draft (pull) running with the coulter on. It's designed to cut the landside clean so that the moldboard does not have to tear it, but rather peel it off of the nice clean coulter cut. On big high speed plows they really save the shin from wear and cut down on plugging, but as others have said, these Brinlys are short on trash clearance and don't have an optimized coulter design...unless you "modify"...

 

[aaytay]

Pictures to illustrate what Steve is saying....

 

[aaytay]

Sorry "dial-uppers"....

Well, I didn't remove the front axle. Heck, I didn't even degrease it, but here are some photos of the previously repaired axle that's under my 169.

Should I keep this one, or replace it with that hunk of scrap Kraig posted today?

 

[hcole]

I'd say the weld looks okay BUT if you could get away from it......... if it was me I would rather have the SOLID rather than the void of that crack thats lurking beneath the weld.