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Archive through May 26, 2010
- Thread starter T-Mo
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I dont think my gen is charging on my 122 there is a guy in my town who works on them he can test it for free if the gen is good what do I do to test the voltage regulator? What can I do to check to see if power is geting sucked up when tractor ignition is turned off.
Richard-Are you puting them on correctly with the right torque sequence.You can find this in the kohler manual for a free download yours shold be under k-series 1-10 hp and horizontal shaft or k-241 http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm
Richard-Are you puting them on correctly with the right torque sequence.You can find this in the kohler manual for a free download yours shold be under k-series 1-10 hp and horizontal shaft or k-241 http://www.kohlerengines.com/manuals/landing.htm
1450
Why is it for me and this tractor nothing is easy. STILL trying to replace the fan. Built the support
to prop up the shaft, removed the four flex joint bolts (in pic temporarily put back in two), proceeded to use roll pin punch to drive the pin. It will not move, I thought reasonable blows would punch it through, nothing. I'm progressively using heavier blows and nothing. Question: How hard do I hammer to drive the pin? Should I be relly wail? If it contines to not move can I drill it with a hand drill or is the pin hardened to the extent I'll snap the drill bit? If I can get it to move I'll rotate the shaft and drive from the other side as the pin is starting to mushroom. Do I continue, or do what as a an alternative?
Why is it for me and this tractor nothing is easy. STILL trying to replace the fan. Built the support
to prop up the shaft, removed the four flex joint bolts (in pic temporarily put back in two), proceeded to use roll pin punch to drive the pin. It will not move, I thought reasonable blows would punch it through, nothing. I'm progressively using heavier blows and nothing. Question: How hard do I hammer to drive the pin? Should I be relly wail? If it contines to not move can I drill it with a hand drill or is the pin hardened to the extent I'll snap the drill bit? If I can get it to move I'll rotate the shaft and drive from the other side as the pin is starting to mushroom. Do I continue, or do what as a an alternative?
Gary Smyth
I have found that to remove a stuborn coiled roll pin its best to start with a smaller pin punch to get the center of the pin to move. After that use the proper size roll pin and it will come out easier.btdt.
Terry Reed
I hope this is the last time that I have to remove that wheel for awile lol. And rear wheel steering would be great I would say. But if GM could not get it to work ,I had better not try lol.
I have found that to remove a stuborn coiled roll pin its best to start with a smaller pin punch to get the center of the pin to move. After that use the proper size roll pin and it will come out easier.btdt.
Terry Reed
I hope this is the last time that I have to remove that wheel for awile lol. And rear wheel steering would be great I would say. But if GM could not get it to work ,I had better not try lol.
Paul wat setting do I put my volmeter on.
1450
I'm glad you are here. As suggested I used a small pin punch to drive the center. Used half the force and the thing started. The remainder drove through without incident. Thank you much. Learned yet another thing today. Let's hope that the support did its job so that the shaft wasn't bent by using too much force earlier.
I'm glad you are here. As suggested I used a small pin punch to drive the center. Used half the force and the thing started. The remainder drove through without incident. Thank you much. Learned yet another thing today. Let's hope that the support did its job so that the shaft wasn't bent by using too much force earlier.
snicklas
Well-known member
A follow up from last week. I adjusted the air gap on the PTO on my 1450. It now engages every time I flip the switch. Thank you for the help guys. I have finally gotten the area tilled they way I want it. It only took 3 trys and a new belt.....
msmucker
Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2008
- Messages
- 24
- displayname
- marcus smucker
Hello, I am looking for some help getting manufacturing information about a mower deck I recently acquired. The previous owner bought this deck to replace the original on a 782 (now my tractor) which had rotted out. I am getting ready to start restoring this deck and I was looking at the serial # plate which is rough looking but it says 44 and what looks like the worn-down letter C, but it might be a G and the T was worn off. Looking at the deck configuration it looks like a 44GT deck with the front welded wheels, but the serial # plate says IH. I thought that the GT mower decks were all CCC products and the IH products stopped with the C series of decks. Unless someone replaced the deck serial # plate, the origins of this deck seems like a mystery to me. Is there anyone out there that knows some history about these decks and can explain what I have.
As always thanks for any help. This is a great forum!
-Marcus
As always thanks for any help. This is a great forum!
-Marcus
Gary Smyth
A big hammer will just get you in trouble every time lol.I used to go deep sea fishing for a living when I was 18 and when to visit the now father in law and he was putting in some new fence posts. I thought I should help and took his big hammer from him and said let me do that I`am only a young guy. I beat that post into the feild down to my knees till he laughted and I stopped.I was used to cutting warp ( wire)line for the main about 2" thick and learnd how to use a bfh.I drove post for him that day and left most of the post above ground after that first one
A big hammer will just get you in trouble every time lol.I used to go deep sea fishing for a living when I was 18 and when to visit the now father in law and he was putting in some new fence posts. I thought I should help and took his big hammer from him and said let me do that I`am only a young guy. I beat that post into the feild down to my knees till he laughted and I stopped.I was used to cutting warp ( wire)line for the main about 2" thick and learnd how to use a bfh.I drove post for him that day and left most of the post above ground after that first one
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
When truing up a warped head, I clean the gasket surface with a GOOD flat file, just enough to get it shiny. I use a piece of laminated auto glass for a lapping surface with Permatex valave lapping compound rather than sandpaper (I feel it give a flatter surface). Once I've lapped it with a circular motion (also rotating the position I'm holding it in every so often) for a couple hundred laps, I clean it off and put machinist's Prussian blue dye on it. Lap it a couple hundred more and then clean and check the surface. When you've removed all the blue by lapping, it's pretty close to flat as Kansas..... The last head I did took about 1500 laps to flatten.. Note, we also do belt sander "milling" (.030 off a Cushman head makes it talk), but I won't talk about whether or not you end up with a "tilt" in the cut surface before lapping
Marcus:
Why not post a couple of pics of the deck, it might help identify.. BTW, welcome fellow Cub enthusiast and Jef Mallet fan!! (and I like strawberry jam!!)
Lucas:
What watt setting?? My DVOMs don't have a watt setting.. BTW, checking for mysterious battery draw will be more accurate if you use the "amps" setting on the meter, not the "volts". Start with the highest range (like 20 amps if you've got it) and then step down until you can read the "leakage" if any. It's correct that if you can measure any voltage at all, there may be a leak, but you will not know how bad the draw is until you measure the current ("amps" on down to "milliamps").. A draw that will read 13 volts on the voltage scale may only read a few milliamps, which would take quite a while (weeks) to run a good battery down..
Marcus:
Why not post a couple of pics of the deck, it might help identify.. BTW, welcome fellow Cub enthusiast and Jef Mallet fan!! (and I like strawberry jam!!)
Lucas:
What watt setting?? My DVOMs don't have a watt setting.. BTW, checking for mysterious battery draw will be more accurate if you use the "amps" setting on the meter, not the "volts". Start with the highest range (like 20 amps if you've got it) and then step down until you can read the "leakage" if any. It's correct that if you can measure any voltage at all, there may be a leak, but you will not know how bad the draw is until you measure the current ("amps" on down to "milliamps").. A draw that will read 13 volts on the voltage scale may only read a few milliamps, which would take quite a while (weeks) to run a good battery down..
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Gerry I., KENtuck is gonna get you for that...'What watt setting?'...
You know they speak a little different down that way.
You know they speak a little different down that way.
I put it on volts and got negative point four?? (I have a digital fluke tester)
Allen Nixon, I can't tell for sure because of the shadows,but The clutch disk(its the part on the three pins) loves to stick to the two metal parts,one on each side of the disk, if left with the clutch applied for long periods of time. With the clutch pedal held down in the released position alittle friendly persuasion will free it. Take another picture without the shadows a little further back,looks like the upper operating lever bracket is missing or something(the hole in the lever that is showing should be pinned to a bracket)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Allen N.-
That clutch is never going to release in its current state because the hanger bracket that bolts to the pedastal appears to be missing.
That clutch is never going to release in its current state because the hanger bracket that bolts to the pedastal appears to be missing.
proessler
Well-known member
Marcus --- Deck looks like a 44C. Check Cub Cadet Parts Lookup at top of page next to Kraig's Video add. Try under model 358 Or 1811 attachments.
Don T.,
You must be pretty confident of this tire job being a good one, ay? I think I would have waited at least until tomorrow to see if it lost any air pressure over night before I would have messed with putting those weights back on...... but, that's just me & my luck.
Ryan Wilke
You must be pretty confident of this tire job being a good one, ay? I think I would have waited at least until tomorrow to see if it lost any air pressure over night before I would have messed with putting those weights back on...... but, that's just me & my luck.
Ryan Wilke
