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Archive through May 26, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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The hanger is there I just remove the pin to remove dash thinking this weekend if I get the parts, it would be easy to install steering box. I will wait till I get parts for gear box and ignition switch to get it running and see then what happens. I was justcomparing to pictures of clutch to what I had. Will post when I get it going.
Thanks
Al
 
Ryan D Wilke , Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
(My sentiments, exactly! P.S. I think it's eh?, not ay?. Maybe Don can clarify this (when he's not too busy)
Guys I used the loader about an hr today and had no problems with a flat yet. I do hope its fixed this time because the young pup did not know how to install a tube. He did it my way this time and its lasted the longest so far.The weight I run on the loader is 2 plastic 75 lbs, 2 IH 25 lbs and a weight box on the back with 165 lbs, and the rear tires are loaded. this is the only way I can carry a full load in the bucket and have any traction. It sure was sweet having it working today (eh) lol.
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The progression of my “cub bug” (aka. Yellow fevor…) and why I guess ISO mounts suck...

Since getting bitten with the "cub bug" (a little over a month ago...) I've acquired 3 QLs (1650, 1450, 1250) and a WF 169.

I'd first bought the 1650 to mow with and to “restore.” (had always wanted a 1650 when I was polishing the seat of my Dad’s 1200 with my butt for hours at a stretch…) Shortly after getting it home I discovered that you couldn't mow & restore at the same time
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Also, it has some bigish issues - so bought the 1450 thinking it would be the workhorse while I got the 1650 back up to snuff and then it would get sold. The 1450 turned out to have worse issues and is now currently half torn apart awaiting new ISO mounts (among other things) to arrive. I'd gotten the 1650 for a song, so the 1450 didn't seem like a big deal, then the 1250 appeared for less than I can sell a couple parts off of it for… Since I needed a few other parts from it for the 1650 - I was actually saving money, right? ;) Anyhow, suddenly the 169 became available and I decide IT would the restoration project and I should have it for when I was ready to do a restore, vs. being ready to restore and not being able to find one, I mean, they only made 4000 ever, right?
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Anyhow, the 1250 is currently my "experimentation" unit. It is a rolling wreck. Missing drive shaft, hydro valves both frozen, numerous small pieces (tank, some body work) missing, etc. It did however, (for $25 more!) come with the engine, which turns by hand. This is my "fun tractor," the one I'm learning on. I even plan to rebuild the motor myself – what can I lose with $25 invested? Today I decided to pull the engine to see what I would be looking at to replace the ISO mounts in 1450. (note, the engines are HEAVY – big, BIG mistake hoisting it by hand onto the work bench!)

Anyhow, the attached pics show why the ISO mounts suck. I have no idea how these got SO deteriorated, but it is amazing! These are the bottom, BACK mounts. It is my understanding they typically fair better than the fronts! I understand this to be due to the fact that most oil leaks occur in the front and the oil combined with the heat quickly rot away the front ISOs. I guess that wisdom is in part valid. One of the fronts was entirely missing, the other replaced with some sort of bolt/nut rigid mount concoction.

Anyhow, I'm busting on the QL series, but I really don't care. I'm learning enough (and of course own a couple) that should I develop a ISO eating oil leak in the future I can STOP and fix it before the worst happens. Having said that, I am looking forward to the 169 and not having to deal with them. I also wouldn’t mind if a 149 found its way home and my "worker" wasn't encumbered with them (ISOs) in the future.
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Ah the possibilities… I could have the 149 &169. Fix up and trade off the 1450 & 1650, then get myself a 1200 and put a rear PTO and creeper on it to have the fancy upgrades I’d wished Dad had sprung for. Of course the motor from 1250 would already be ready to rock & roll
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You know, I told my fiancée that I was getting into this hobby because it was cheap compared to everything else I’d ever been into ;) Amazing how it has picked up steam so fast… Going to have to enjoy it while it lasts, 25 days and I’m married
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Looking forward to it for sure, she’s a great girl – but these tractors are going to need parts ;)

-Calvin


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Stripping paint and rust from bodywork and frame...

Are these OK to use? I tried both on the 4" angle grinder today on a junk tractor I bought to experiment with. They certainly removed rust & paint. However, since pently of sparks fly (even with light pressure and moving the disk quickly), I'm assuming some metal is being removed. It any worse, better or equal to sand blasting, which isn't an option for me?

FWIW, I had been looking a tractor restoration book recently and there was an interview with some guy famous in the field. He claims that he NEVER blasts things - especially bodywork as it causes warpage. He "sands" everything. I didn't take this to mean he *hand sands* everything and have seen on the car restoration TV shows where they used pneumatic sanders. Am I using too much or just enough with these type disks on a electric grinder?

Thanks,

-Calvin

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Would someone have time to explain a 800 for me? Found one and am hoping the price is right.
 
8 hp QL gear drive, only 2,345 made. Lowest production CC that I know of. Check to see if it has the correct small starter, air filter assembly, and muffler box...all are 800-specific and impossible to find.
 
Frank - By then your SS check won't be worth squat !
You'll have to hoof it down here.

I've been up since 4:45am and worked 8 hours on the TOY , I'm beat and hurtin so I'm gone ....
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Hi Folks,

First post here. I have a Cub Cadet 100 (#110077) that has been in the family for over 40 years. I must have been a 9 year old back in Illinois when my dad bought it. I replaced the engine in it once about 30 years ago. It's tired out now. Just took it to the tractor doctor and he said the cylinder bore is ovaled to the point a re-bore wont help it. He quoted me about $1200 for a new K241A short block to replace the old motor (#46700D). Seems like I can do better than that. Any suggestions on where to look for a new or reconditioned short block?

I see some old motors or whole tractors as good deals in the "for sale" section, but I won't really know what I'm getting and shipping here to the state of WA may be an issue.

I saw a place on e-bay offering rebuilt short blocks for about half the price quoted above. I think the place was in Ohio and seems to specialize in "quality rebuilds". Legit?

I'm only mowing grass and pulling a utility wagon, but should I consider a K301 for the extra HP?

Any advice appreciated.
 
I just picked up a 1962 Original and the metal pan seat had a well-made backrest that fastened to the seat between the seat spring and the pan. Did any company ever make such an add-on accessory?
 
can anyone help me out with my mower deck, i have a 123 cub hydro, it came with a 42 in deck, 421U1113 is the id on tag on deck, where can i find parts for it, i tried looking it up on the cub parts look up, i can find everything for the tractor, but nothing for the mower deck
 
Peter S.

Go back to the parts look up and click on the attachments folder, there you will find the attachments for your 123 and the part numbers to assist in finding replacement parts.
if by chance it is listed as NLA, well your out of luck finding a new part through a dealer.
How ever there are a few used parts guys out there who might be able to help you out.
 
Ken
I would like to report that the 129 loader rear wheel is NOT flat this am.
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I`am one happy Cubber here to have this tire fixed. But I should not have had to tell a tire shop how to put a tube in a tire lol.I think you must have over done it yesterday working on your toy. I feel your pain ! Have a great day all.
 
Peter S.
Ya know there's a reason we have Cub Cadet related Sponsors here on the forum.
<font color="ff0000">Be sure to support those who have made this possible. You know, the colorful boxes with links right above!!</font>
 
Donald - I figured the young pup was pinching the tube. I did that once and that's all it took me to learn. Since tubes aren't used that much anymore they (young pups) don't get any experience installing them. Like pencils now days , ask a kid to write a report and they'll grab their Blackberry ! Forget about asking them to sharpen the pencil ...
(I'm not going there on the pain ... walking away real slow ...)

Charlie - We don't read RED ! Glad you took care of my light work last night
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Hey I get to bounce and jar around mowing the yard today ... oh joy !!
 
Calvin:
The blue one (kinda like a tough 3M scrubby) is better IMHO than the flap disk, which will leave more grinder marks. I use plenty of both in my shop. BTW - media blasting is still a good alternative , especially if used with a little care. Blasting with a coarse media at high pressure WILL cause warping, so back off on the pressure and distance - I mean, Cub sheet metal is pretty thick!!

KentucK - I bounced around for about 70 miles on the Cushman Vanguard/Eagle yesterday - weird what a bunch of old farts will think is fun. I gotta figure out why the front forks don't slide - Michigan roads being what they are...
 
1450 - Serial Number 635621
If a picture needed please look at 5/26 1:32P

The manual says that below #622952 "there is a steel ball spacer located in the flex coupling to properly locate the drive shaft". My serial number is above that number. I have no ball I can find. According to the way I'm reading the manual I'm not expecting to see one. With all of your collective experience can I assume correctly that with my serial number and with two flex discs that there is no ball there. I'm working with a flattened cardboard dryer box on gravel under the tractor and sometimes stuff just rolls away never to be seen again. Just confirming, as my manual has been not precisely correct before.
 

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