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Archive through May 26, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Gary I dont think the ball bearing was there, and that the double disk mod eliminated it.

I see on parts lookup they have double disk but not connected together they are at the end joints of the drive shaft . I do not have a 1450 to compare to, but all my hydros use a single flex disc. sorry this was not alot of help.
 
Gary/Jeff-

After that S/N break, I think they changed the coupler a bit and put in the spherical ball bushing, which centers the driveshaft. In the older version, the driveshaft is centered by the ball- there's a center mark in the end of the driveshaft and also in the input shaft of the hydro. The BEST thing would be to use two rubber discs, the spherical ball bushing coupler, AND the 5/8" ball bearing. That way, there's two things keeping the driveshaft aligned.
 
Thanks Charlie
Looks good on your 100. I guess I'll have to keep it then. Do any parts or accessory catalogs list or show it? I'm curious as to what it may have cost back then.
 
Charlie, Paul T, I don't think I could get my leg over that.
happy.gif
 
My K301 is stuck please help

History is I pulled a 129 from a field and opened it for inspection: I cleaned the head it did not looked warped on glass, replaced head gasket, removed loose feeling balance gears without BFH, and general tune up.

reassembled

I was trying to fine tune it while running as it kept wanting to run fast. After shutting it off it was slowing down and came to a dead stop.

Here are some inside pics, The piston is 7/8 from the top of the head and does have very slight play back and forth. In the first pic I think I have a broken cylinder, but I have not found any remnants of it.

191222.jpg

191223.jpg

191224.jpg
 
Jeff-

I've never seen a piston seize in its bore in one of these engines. Take the rod cap off, it's possible the rod seized to the crank. Did you have any oil in the engine?
 
Jeff take the rod cap off. Then see what moves. It'll tell you everything you want to know.
 
Ill head out and take the rod cap off and yep I had oil, in fact I changed it twice after the balance gear removal
 
ok I pulled the cap and everything swung free so I pulled the piston and cap.

the cylider bore is smoothand the piston and rings seem fine but the rod cap and rod feel rough although the crank felt smooth.

should I put it all back together and try again or do I have a problem?
 
JEFF - I'm not understanding your description of "Rough" on the rod cap & rod bearing surfaces.

Are there grooves or something similar worn on the bearing surface? Something you can feel or catch a fingernail on? Was the rod cap removed when you had the engine apart? And was it reinstalled correctly, think it's with the oil hole TOWARDS the camshaft.

It almost sounds like you need to replace the rod, but it's kinda hard to trouble-shoot from 75 miles away.
 

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