Archive through May 25, 2004

[rmull]

Hey Dave...is that kinda like having your own training department vs a contract trainer?

 

[mjames]

what is the proper position of the clutch pto friction disc spring? i see 3 notchs in cup.springs were not on old unit.

 

[nbartee]

I had a problem with my 682 missing out badly after mowing 20-30 min. It turned out to be a bad condensor, but I also replaced the coil. Running fine now.
Thanks to Kevin, Kurt, Tedd, & Steve for their suggestions, it really helped and that's what I love about this forum.

Thanks Guys

 

[sblunier]

Mark,

The tabs on the 3 ends of the triangle shaped spring go down (to the CI pulley) and hold the spring up off of the casting about 1/8".

 

[dkamp]

Ryan- Yeah, it's something like that... but I had'ta MULL it over first... :-}

Hi All! Pulled the 109's tired oil-belching machine, and installed a motor pulled from a 129 some time ago. Well, the 129 smokes a bit, too... but at least it doesn't RAIN oil. I'll rehab the 10, then consider switching 'em back.

I also took some rotten 23x10.5x12's off of a pair of decent rims, and rigged up one of the rims to be a form... and I filled the form full of concrete... we'll se how well it turns out tomorrow. In the meantime, I'm heading for the horizontal...

 

[cmccarty]

Just checked out the Agri-Fab 3 point trailer hitch thing at the local Rural King. Looks great - adjustable wheels, electric lift. $399.99

Ryan, If I had one of those I could try out my disc, cultivator, and plow.
CJM

 

[rmull]

eek...$400?...you can buy a Cat '0' hitch for that much.

I need to get that plow out of the back of the truck...but it is green so I don't want anybody seeing it..

Kent had it buried in the garage, hidden from view as well.

 

[wcompton]

On the trailing CAT"0" adapters . . . .
Don't expect to pull much with those unless you have A LOT of weight. I don't think there would be too much weight transfer at all (and I'd think it would work to lighten the rear of a tractor). Around here there's some tractors that have some implements coupled to some sort of DMI 3-point adapter, mostly mounting grain drills, but I have seen them adapt 3-point subsoilers and the folks I've talked to say that to buy one they would rather buy a 3-point field conversion so the implement downforce helps put weight on the back of the tractor.

 

[kmcconaughey]

FWIW, I posted that link because of the CAT-0 implements that Agri-Fab is now making not for the trailing adapter.

 

[rleo]

Art and Kraig:

Well, Art's a prophet. Worked on the front PTO last night. I must be livin' right: the lock and set screws came out fine and a with couple of wacks and the clutch assy came off. Tonight I'll pull off the bearing. It looks like (per Art's comment) the keyway is wallowed out. (Hard to see until I pull the bearing). The pulley rocks side to side about 5%. One of the set screws on the pulley is MIA. The key is toast.

QUESTION: Please don't tell me I'll need to replace the crankshaft. Is there some miracle trick out there for restoring worn keyways?

 

[sblunier]

Ray,

Crankshaft keyways can be carefully welded (keep the heat down and wrap a cold wet rag around the front seal area) and reground (VERY carefully) with a die-grinder/file. Or, if it's not too bad a longer key will sometimes help them.

Could also probably get a second keyway cut if you had a friend at the local machine shop.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve couldn't a "step key" be used, provided the correct size could be found?

McMaster-Carr enter "step key bar stock" in the search menu.

 

[rleo]

Steve B.:
Thanks.

 

[aaytay]

Ray-
I had a crankshaft that was damaged, so I had a local welder build it up (paying careful attention to heat build up as Steve says..).

I then used a 4" grinder to grind it almost back to size. Using a bearing as a sizing tool, I then started the tractor up (you guys are gonna get a kick out of this!) and proceeded to "dress" the crank with a flexible sanding/grinding disk mounted on the same 4" angle grinder. About every 5 seconds I would stop the tractor and check it's size with the bearing. Keep in mind that I was removing very small amounts of material and would only proceed for a few seconds before checking my progress, but I found that this method would keep the shape of the crank somewhat round as opposed to static grinding/turning the crank. Since this was a low-pressure/low-effort task, it didn't really damage the keyway either. I wouldn't do this final clean up with a normal grinding wheel however, get the flexible disk!

On the otherhand, having a new keyway cut into the crank may be the best situation in your case, but that would probably require you to tear down the engine...

<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[scollins]

Hi----
I have a CC1650 with aux. hydraulics out the front of the tractor. Does anyone know the PSI and the GPM that the hydraulic pump would be putting out? Even if the numbers are "factory new specs" this will give me an idea of what I am working with.
Thanks,
Seth

 

[nfisher]

Seth,
you should be puttig out close to 2 GPM @ 700 PSI.

 

[lstaley]

I am in a bind I need to till up a 50x100 area of yard to landscape and level it and I have found that my tiiler belts are trashed and the local cc dealers have none in stock does any one have a napa, gates etc number to cross reference the IH # won't go in the systems even if the belt just lasts the weekend it will get me through.
I do need both belts
please email me if you have numbers

 

[rmull]

Ya know Wyatt, I was thinking the same thing as I was thinking about hooking a plow on that...

But if you had an articulated or tracked tractor, it might be okay...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Lawrence, if you post the IH belt number you were using someone might be able to measure one for you.

This is all I have. IH tiller belt number 549-250-R1 is 13/32"x 143-7/8".

 

[rleo]

Art:
Thanks.