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J
jblackwelder
Guest
Have a 1250 CC. The battery is only a year old and was drained down the other day from my son leaving the key on. I jumped it off and ran it for a good 15 minutes. But it didn't charge up. Now I jumped it off again but when you try to go forward it dies. Could the battery have been drained so low that it want charge back up now. Before the battery was totally drained the voltage regulator would move showing it charging but when jumped off it stays in the middle. Thanks for any help.
bmcmeen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2002
- Messages
- 2,106
- displayname
- Bryan D. McMeen, Keeper of the Holy Hy-Tran
Joel B. -
15 minutes with your 1250's alternator?? I don't think so...
It takes the better part of a day to charge a dead battery with a battery charger, let alone with your tractor.
Another thing I'd be concerned about is whether your coil is now damaged. Just another effect of leaving the key on.
Be sure to remove the key from the tractor when you're done with it from now on...
15 minutes with your 1250's alternator?? I don't think so...
It takes the better part of a day to charge a dead battery with a battery charger, let alone with your tractor.
Another thing I'd be concerned about is whether your coil is now damaged. Just another effect of leaving the key on.
Be sure to remove the key from the tractor when you're done with it from now on...
J
jblackwelder
Guest
Hey Brian shouldn't the voltage guage have read to the C side though? Because it didn't move from the middle after I jumped it and let it run. How can I tell if the coil is damaged? Thanks for your help.
Joel-
From past experience I've found the charge indicator little better than a filler for the hole in the dash
Even the cheapest $9 multi-meter is more accurate. At least in my case my charge indicator tells more of how much the tractor vibrates than anything.
From past experience I've found the charge indicator little better than a filler for the hole in the dash
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Wyatt,
A 169...v~i~b~r~a~t~e?????? Nah, you must be imagining things!!!!
Joel,
Put the battery on a charger for a length of time and try again. a 15amp charging system isn't much. If after a good charge the battery will hold 12.5 volts you should be ok. with the engine running a WOT the battery voltage should be more than 12.5 volts...you should see it rise as you open up the throttle...probably somewhere in the 13-13.5V range would be considered normal...more than 14V will be hard on the battery.
If it does not run correctly on a well charged battery you can check the coil. There should be some resistance # floating around somewhere to test it.
A 169...v~i~b~r~a~t~e?????? Nah, you must be imagining things!!!!
Joel,
Put the battery on a charger for a length of time and try again. a 15amp charging system isn't much. If after a good charge the battery will hold 12.5 volts you should be ok. with the engine running a WOT the battery voltage should be more than 12.5 volts...you should see it rise as you open up the throttle...probably somewhere in the 13-13.5V range would be considered normal...more than 14V will be hard on the battery.
If it does not run correctly on a well charged battery you can check the coil. There should be some resistance # floating around somewhere to test it.
I will be getting plenty of seat time on my cubs the next 6 days, I am going on vacation at 2:30an and will not be able to check back here until after 6pm on wensday next week,( only internet access it at work ). Everyone have a safe and happy holiday weekend. See you all again next month.
(Message edited by lbuttke on May 26, 2004)
(Message edited by lbuttke on May 26, 2004)
W
wdeturck
Guest
I put a volt meter in place of the amp meter on my Original(have to change the wiring slightly) as I can see when the key is on(I do that a lot) and what the voltage it is charging. The points can damaged easier than the coil and they will start but not run correct(no power)
R
rmull
Guest
Cyrus was mowing with us! He gets slathered with sunscreen, ballcap on his noggin and put in the Snugli, which straps on like a backpack, but he is up front instead...
It will only last for this summer, next year he will be too big.
It was too wet to plow the yard...I finally got the sweet corn planted last night...we have been getting storms every couple days. I should have planted it in April when I had the chance.
It will only last for this summer, next year he will be too big.
It was too wet to plow the yard...I finally got the sweet corn planted last night...we have been getting storms every couple days. I should have planted it in April when I had the chance.
Gentlemen,
I need new brake pads on my 106. Has anyone put on new brake lining material from McMaster Carr, instead of paying $74 to Case IH for a set of pads? If so, which material and how thick? I read some of the specs on the M C catalog - - I don't know which material is correct for my use. Secondly - how do you cut this material to proper size? Thirdly - what "glue" should be used to bond the new material to the old or to the pad holder? I appreciate any information and help you can give me.
Charlie
I need new brake pads on my 106. Has anyone put on new brake lining material from McMaster Carr, instead of paying $74 to Case IH for a set of pads? If so, which material and how thick? I read some of the specs on the M C catalog - - I don't know which material is correct for my use. Secondly - how do you cut this material to proper size? Thirdly - what "glue" should be used to bond the new material to the old or to the pad holder? I appreciate any information and help you can give me.
Charlie
till
Well-known member
Charles McCarty,
First, are you sure you need all four?? If not, you can buy them individualy from the sponsors.
Second, how long did the first set last? Is $72.00 that bad for that many years of service?? I'm gona guess that you have the original pads in that tractor and that would make them around 34 years old. 34 into 72 around $2.12 a year, not bad.
I know that money is tight in this hobby, but if we stop buying the parts from the OEM, then they will not be around at all soon.
Just my .02.......
First, are you sure you need all four?? If not, you can buy them individualy from the sponsors.
Second, how long did the first set last? Is $72.00 that bad for that many years of service?? I'm gona guess that you have the original pads in that tractor and that would make them around 34 years old. 34 into 72 around $2.12 a year, not bad.
I know that money is tight in this hobby, but if we stop buying the parts from the OEM, then they will not be around at all soon.
Just my .02.......
Anyone seen this new Agri-Fab 3 point stuff?
till
Well-known member
Kraig,
I have now.
I like the idea of the 3 point trailer......
I have now.
I like the idea of the 3 point trailer......
R
rmull
Guest
Contact Charlie Proctor - he has the jig for doing brakes for one of the 1x6/7 style brake pads...Ken Weaver made it using a set of my 126 pads.
And they should use rivets, not glue.
And they should use rivets, not glue.
till
Well-known member
Mom, can I get a new Cub hauler????
Hey Charles!
I've relined elevator and train brakes... doing a CC is no big deal. Since the disks are plain steel (not cast iron), and they're not in a high-heat scenario, you can use just about any material and adhesive you can make work. It's not unusual to see low-speed steel brakes running LEATHER linings... I've seen quite a few other things used (OEM) that're quite amusing... but there's procedures for relining brakes on all sorts of equipment... from elevators to crane hoisting drums to heavy equipment brakes.
My railroad brakes are held on with rivets, adhesives, or combination of both... of course, heat IS an issue in these machines, and the soft disks present a very high coefficient of friction, so fastening is much more critical than a cub.
My suggestion: use a semi-metallic material. Measure the width of the fully-open caliper, and fill the gap about 90%. Use a good strong adhesive... you can experiment a bit (if it's no good, the lining will just come loose). I've had good luck using a product called Gorilla Glue on some brakes I've made for other odd (hoisting) machines... it's a Cyano-Acrilate (CA) glue strikingly similar to Great Stuff expanding foam, but it doesn't expand.
Wire brush the pad backing 'till it's shiny-clean, and hit it with a sanding block. Rough up the backside of the lining material a bit (sandpaper or a brush), then spread glue and stick it down. No need to trim it nicely beforehand- it's actually easier to cut most linings to profile after they've been glued on.
Tedd- I wouldn't worry too much about the aftermarket loss of brake pads... the sales volume is so low that replacements are just farmed out to the same places that make every other sort of replacement brake shoes/pads. In the case of CC's, relining'em yourself is a low-cost, high-economy solution with essentially no impact on the aftermarket.
I've relined elevator and train brakes... doing a CC is no big deal. Since the disks are plain steel (not cast iron), and they're not in a high-heat scenario, you can use just about any material and adhesive you can make work. It's not unusual to see low-speed steel brakes running LEATHER linings... I've seen quite a few other things used (OEM) that're quite amusing... but there's procedures for relining brakes on all sorts of equipment... from elevators to crane hoisting drums to heavy equipment brakes.
My railroad brakes are held on with rivets, adhesives, or combination of both... of course, heat IS an issue in these machines, and the soft disks present a very high coefficient of friction, so fastening is much more critical than a cub.
My suggestion: use a semi-metallic material. Measure the width of the fully-open caliper, and fill the gap about 90%. Use a good strong adhesive... you can experiment a bit (if it's no good, the lining will just come loose). I've had good luck using a product called Gorilla Glue on some brakes I've made for other odd (hoisting) machines... it's a Cyano-Acrilate (CA) glue strikingly similar to Great Stuff expanding foam, but it doesn't expand.
Wire brush the pad backing 'till it's shiny-clean, and hit it with a sanding block. Rough up the backside of the lining material a bit (sandpaper or a brush), then spread glue and stick it down. No need to trim it nicely beforehand- it's actually easier to cut most linings to profile after they've been glued on.
Tedd- I wouldn't worry too much about the aftermarket loss of brake pads... the sales volume is so low that replacements are just farmed out to the same places that make every other sort of replacement brake shoes/pads. In the case of CC's, relining'em yourself is a low-cost, high-economy solution with essentially no impact on the aftermarket.
