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Archive through May 14, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Well-known member
Aug 27, 2006
Gerry Ide
Been clearing the yard of all the downed branches and trees from the ice storm last December. My neighbor is letting me put the brush in the back of his woods... Using the 129 and trailer to haul the loads back there and then after each off-load, turning the Cub around and using the blade to push the brush piles back... All I can think of is "Ramming Speed, Captain!!!"
.. I've pushed brush piles that were stacked on top of old logs back 15 feet.. (might even have put the old stuff back on the neighbors where they came from)..
Gerry, I was doing the same the other day with stuff from my yard. I was using the IH 782 to push the waste brush pile back into the trees. I started out trying to gently push. After only squishing the front with that approach, I ended up coming in at full speed from a good 15-20' out. WHAM!! I ended up bending the lift rod a bit, but pushed back a pile probably 15'x20' and 5' high another 20' into the tree line.
It was good fun... Those 23degree Firestones have some bite.
Nic, sounds like you need the Blungineered Ramming Speed ™ approved Lift Rod!



That's great! Another thing to add to the to-do list. It needs it for sure. You can only bend that thing back so many times.
The 782 version will need a little bend in it to clear the frame bump out.....

BTW, "Blungineering" was coined back in college on my senior project team (SAE Mini-Baja, for those who may know about it).....and has been a long standing joke we throw around ever since.
Trent P. If you still haven't repaired your cylinder head I'll give you the numbers for a repair kit. It came from CARQUEST # HC 5334-14 it's called "SAV-A-THREAD" M14X1.25.The only thing I disliked about the kit was the price, as I remember it wasn't cheap. I have used mine a few times, always happy with the end product.
DAVID - I see the Helicoil kit has come WAY down in price from when I needed one 18 yrs ago. Evil-bay has them for "Buy it NOW @ $19.97". Local small engine shop wanted $40 for the kit.

I drilled & re-tapped my K301's head from 14 mm to 18mm and installed a Champion H-9 plug. The $40 I saved bought the spark plug taps from McMaster-Carr as opposed to fixing one head.

The cast aluminum oil pan on that K301 also needed the mounting holes Heli-coiled. The only inserts I could find locally were short, say 3/8" long, which were half the length I wanted, and they eventually wallowed their way out of the oil pan. So my success rate with Helicoil's has not been that great, mostly because of the local sources for them.
Gee wiz, you'll bend more than the lift rod on the 42" push blade! I was soaked for $150.00 six years ago for a beat-to-heck push blade. Yesterday, I scored a pretty nice, straight, and non-abused IH 42" push blade! I traded a few parts I had no use for to get the push blade!

Had the "better-than-new" 72 out yesterday hauling 8.5' railroad ties. Enough just can't be said about a all-gear narrow frame when it is returned to "like new" condition....wholly smokes, now this is a tractor's tractor! And to think people make up ideas in there head that old iron requires more "wrenching", lol! I'd bet I would not have to wrench next to nothing on my International 72 Cub Cadet for 150 years based on how I operate it,..... if I lived that long.
Morning all.

Well as some of you might have guessed I'm getting pieces around for a 3 point on my son's 782.
Here are some pics of the mock up.
I have a few questions. Shouldn't there be a bolt or pin in these two holes?


How exactly should this end be mounted? I've read the manual and it just shows a dark picture.


Here is Jackson on his first solo ride just this week end. I think he's gonna have fun this summer.
dennis and anybody else that needs to repair internal tapped holes might want to try "keenserts" if you haven't already. I used these on a ton of stuff at work over the years. I attached a pdf and if i wasn't supposed, sorry. Like i said these things work great and you can get good results without buying the seater tool just use a pin punch instead.

I have a 982 and it is a pin that passes through a hole in the frame from the outside. The hole is located on the right side near the outer rockshaft bracket. I was in a pinch once and made a pin. I ground the hex head of a ½” bolt down to fit and drilled a hole at the end for a cotter pin. I think it is still in there.

I agree with Mike the inserts are better than re-coils. The only drawback I have found is the hole needs to be drilled larger in diameter than for a recoil of the same thread size. Example: I would not use them to repair a head bolt hole on an engine cylinder without taking some measurements to make sure there was enough material left to the cylinder wall.

No, the only time you put a pin in the two holes you asked about is when you want to apply down force with a front or rear mounted blade or implement. For normal operations, the holes should not have a pin so the lift arms and rockshaft are free to float/move.

The front end of the lift bar for your 3 point hitch attaches to the aft 1/2" Dia pin common to the lift bracket shown in your picture. (just above the holes you asked about and aft of the pin attaching the hydraulic lift cylinder to the same bracket). As Jim P mentioned, there is a hole in the right side frame that will allow you to remove the pin once you have the lined up with it. You will need to get a new pin that is longer by the thickness of your lift bar and install it through the lift bar and bracket. Really simple once you figure it out for a 782 and great Engineering by International Harvester!
So are you saying I need to replace this pin (green) with a longer one?
Then stick the bar on the far side of the bracket right next to the frame? (purple)
That's correct. Make sure the pin is recessed into the lift bar or it will come out, grab the edge of the frame hole and create a "not good" result.

Longer 1/2" headed pin is required......

As Steve B. just stated, correct. You got it. The counterbore on the lift bar that Steve showed is a good idea and nice addition to prevent the pin head from rubbing on the inside of the frame rail. When I installed the lift bar on my 782 I used a longer pin with the shallowest head I could find but it still rubs a little on the frame. I also used washers on the other end to take up any gap between the lift bracket and cotter pin and prevent the pin from working outboard and catching the hole in the frame.
Jim, Ron & Steve,
Thanks so much! I'll try to get it finished mocked up tonight and then finish up on the paint this week end.
Thanks again!
NOTE: 82 series sleeve hitch adapter must use slotted holes in top of the lift straps to allow the implement to float, as the 3pt casting is tied directly to the rockshaft and will not float up when lowered all the way down (this is different than all of the yellow wide frames that allow the casting to float). If you use drilled hole links and stick the plow in the ground you WILL bend the links......own that T-shirt!!!!

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