Ray, yes! However, (why does there always seem to be a "however"?) you'll need a bracket like this one to mount the upper cast part:
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through May 01, 2006
- Thread starter bmoore
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Ray, here's where it mounts:
David P,
Your request covers a lot of territory, but I'd start here,
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Jacobsen_Ford_Garden_Tractors/
Your request covers a lot of territory, but I'd start here,
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Jacobsen_Ford_Garden_Tractors/
I took my new to me 44a out for a mow last night. I ran into 2 problems. The first is the center pulley is offset so I needed to shim the back and extend the front hanger bolts. For now I put a small plate on the deck and used nuts for shims. You can sort of see the shims in the back.
The other problem I ran into is the tire hitting the deck when I turn. Even if I can find a hump back hanger I will still need to extend the arms to clear the front tires.
Can someone out there measure how far the back of the deck is to the rear wheels on a 44a? Also, this is a huge favor, can someone measure the bolt hole centers for the hump back hanger? I might need to fabricate one myself. I am looking for the distances of the following.
1. distance between hole 1 and 2
2. distance between hole 1 and 3
3. distance between hole 1 and 4
4. distance between hole 1 and 6
and
5. distance between hole 6 and 1
6. distance between hole 6 and 2
7. distance between hole 6 and 3
8. distance between hole 6 and 4
With these number I should be able to triangulate the height of the hump and the location of the hole in relation to the ground. Then if I have to make the hanger I'll be set.
Thanks!
The other problem I ran into is the tire hitting the deck when I turn. Even if I can find a hump back hanger I will still need to extend the arms to clear the front tires.
Can someone out there measure how far the back of the deck is to the rear wheels on a 44a? Also, this is a huge favor, can someone measure the bolt hole centers for the hump back hanger? I might need to fabricate one myself. I am looking for the distances of the following.
1. distance between hole 1 and 2
2. distance between hole 1 and 3
3. distance between hole 1 and 4
4. distance between hole 1 and 6
and
5. distance between hole 6 and 1
6. distance between hole 6 and 2
7. distance between hole 6 and 3
8. distance between hole 6 and 4
With these number I should be able to triangulate the height of the hump and the location of the hole in relation to the ground. Then if I have to make the hanger I'll be set.
Thanks!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Anyone had to ship an entire CC halfway across the country? If so, send me an email at [email protected], because I have some questions for you
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Terry-
From your pictures it looks like you have a 147, is that correct? If so, that is why the deck doesn't fit right. It was designed for the 1x8/9's on up.
From your pictures it looks like you have a 147, is that correct? If so, that is why the deck doesn't fit right. It was designed for the 1x8/9's on up.
Terry:
1. distance between hole 1 and 2 9 3/8
2. distance between hole 1 and 3 12 3/4
3. distance between hole 1 and 4
4. distance between hole 1 and 6 33
and
5. distance between hole 6 and 1 see 4 (grin)
6. distance between hole 6 and 2 23 7/8
7. distance between hole 6 and 3 20 7/16
8. distance between hole 6 and 4
What is #4 in the picture?
1. distance between hole 1 and 2 9 3/8
2. distance between hole 1 and 3 12 3/4
3. distance between hole 1 and 4
4. distance between hole 1 and 6 33
and
5. distance between hole 6 and 1 see 4 (grin)
6. distance between hole 6 and 2 23 7/8
7. distance between hole 6 and 3 20 7/16
8. distance between hole 6 and 4
What is #4 in the picture?
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Terry,
I repeat......quit messing around with the wrong subframe and get a humpback frame....then see if you need to make a modification, chances are you wont.
...and, you will spend more time trying to fabricate one than you will getting one located and sent to you, it's not like you are looking for a PTO top shaft for an Original here, every QL that was parted out with a crappy deck had a decent hanger under it, somebody has to have one around.
(Message edited by sblunier on May 03, 2006)
I repeat......quit messing around with the wrong subframe and get a humpback frame....then see if you need to make a modification, chances are you wont.
...and, you will spend more time trying to fabricate one than you will getting one located and sent to you, it's not like you are looking for a PTO top shaft for an Original here, every QL that was parted out with a crappy deck had a decent hanger under it, somebody has to have one around.
(Message edited by sblunier on May 03, 2006)
John,
First of all, thank you!
Secondly, #4 is the pivot for the front hook lift section.
Steve,
I have a few feelers out for a hump back. This might take a bit. In the mean time I needed to mow and wanted to use my new gators. The reason I just shimmed to back is so I didn't modify anything. Most of the work I did was on cleanup and painting the deck. I even had to weld a crack under one of the rear hanger brackets. The reason for wanting the measurements is to see if the hump back hanger was longer than the one I have. I might be able to tweak another modification to move the deck back. However, I want the deck to be in the correct, or the same, location as the hump back hanger. This is so when I buy a belt it will fit with the hump back hanger or my existing hanger. From what I can tell the hump back hanger will allow the deck to be raised higher. Other than that there isn't any any other advantage.
First of all, thank you!
Steve,
I have a few feelers out for a hump back. This might take a bit. In the mean time I needed to mow and wanted to use my new gators. The reason I just shimmed to back is so I didn't modify anything. Most of the work I did was on cleanup and painting the deck. I even had to weld a crack under one of the rear hanger brackets. The reason for wanting the measurements is to see if the hump back hanger was longer than the one I have. I might be able to tweak another modification to move the deck back. However, I want the deck to be in the correct, or the same, location as the hump back hanger. This is so when I buy a belt it will fit with the hump back hanger or my existing hanger. From what I can tell the hump back hanger will allow the deck to be raised higher. Other than that there isn't any any other advantage.
Dennis,
Sounds like he ran one of the unlimited classes. I ran 5hp Briggs stock classes in medium and heavy. I had to add weight to make minimum weight in heavy. I don't have that problem now.
I also ran the KT-100 Yahama class. We ran them about 14,500-15,000 rpm. At our local track we'd hit close to 90 mph on the main straight. Those puppies screamed.
Sounds like he ran one of the unlimited classes. I ran 5hp Briggs stock classes in medium and heavy. I had to add weight to make minimum weight in heavy. I don't have that problem now.
I also ran the KT-100 Yahama class. We ran them about 14,500-15,000 rpm. At our local track we'd hit close to 90 mph on the main straight. Those puppies screamed.
Denny.....Run the 982 in the ditch. I've had the Landshark mowing in the bowling alley gutters errr......."ditch" in front of C&G that must be cut at near 40 degree angle and it won't die!!!!
Don D.......Why New Mexico??? I see nothing there that is even remotely good for a plow day......
Don D.......Why New Mexico??? I see nothing there that is even remotely good for a plow day......
ddulac
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2003
- Messages
- 84
- displayname
- Duh-on
No need for any cool attachments here. Now the 100 is just used to move the trailershed around and to give the kids rides around the neighborhood. There is a small town nearby that is closer to the river and much greener. It is an equestrian community and every home there is giving away manure. Once we BUY a lot here and have our house built I plan on planting enough trees to eventually create a canopy over the whole area. Meanwhile I will be hauling in as much free manure yearly as possible. By the time the trees are big enough to give me shade the ground will be fertile enough to grow grass and a garden. At that time I will need to get a creeper and a tiller, but that is probably ten or more years in the future.
The 100 didn't have to pull the trailer here, my poor V6 ranger did with the 100 in it, but the Cub has the trailer light hook up because I used to pull a 4X6 unenclosed trailer around the neighborhood during Christmas for the mini-haywagon Christmas-light tour. The neighbors and their kids (in NC) loved it. I needed the trailer lights to flash so that people wouldn't plow into us at night.
(Message edited by ddulac on May 04, 2006)
The 100 didn't have to pull the trailer here, my poor V6 ranger did with the 100 in it, but the Cub has the trailer light hook up because I used to pull a 4X6 unenclosed trailer around the neighborhood during Christmas for the mini-haywagon Christmas-light tour. The neighbors and their kids (in NC) loved it. I needed the trailer lights to flash so that people wouldn't plow into us at night.
(Message edited by ddulac on May 04, 2006)
I need new front tires for a 582. After 26 years the original ones seem to have dry rotted. Any advice on running the smooth ribbed tires versus a turf tire? IH seemed to have spec'd a smooth rib tire most probably for ease of steering and to not tear up the grass while turning. My experience with the old bald tires is that when one turns the steering wheel, the tires skid for a while prior to turning if the grass is the least bit wet. OBTW-I plan on mowing, using a plow, and in the near future pulling a brinly plow. Rear tires are a no brainer-get the tractor lug style, but what about the fronts???
Don,
You might want to get rid of the gravel as fast as you can if you plan to live there long. The gravel holds the heat and will keep your AC running well into the AM during the heat of the summer. In Texas I used to have to spray down the west side of the house at night just to get the AC to slow down. The bricks held the heat till 3am.
I built an arbor on the west side of the house to shade the house during the afternoon. The arbor cost $50, the electric dropped $20 a month.
But ohhhh the sunsets. How I miss those southwest evenings. Summer sun a nice Cub yellow fading into a beautiful Farmall red ;^)
DAve
You might want to get rid of the gravel as fast as you can if you plan to live there long. The gravel holds the heat and will keep your AC running well into the AM during the heat of the summer. In Texas I used to have to spray down the west side of the house at night just to get the AC to slow down. The bricks held the heat till 3am.
I built an arbor on the west side of the house to shade the house during the afternoon. The arbor cost $50, the electric dropped $20 a month.
But ohhhh the sunsets. How I miss those southwest evenings. Summer sun a nice Cub yellow fading into a beautiful Farmall red ;^)
DAve
