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Archive through March 29, 2011
- Thread starter wcardwell
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I have a 122 and I have a couple ?s. 1. Are the belt guards on the deck supposed to be yellow or white? I have seen them both ways so I'm not sure. 2. Does anyone know how long of a bolt I need to put wheel weights on both inside and outside? Id like to not buy crazy long bolts and have to cut them. Any info would be really helpful. Thanks
Don D., looking good.
Tim, the belt guards should be yellow. The length of the bolts (1/2-13 threaded carriage bolts) will depend on whether you have 6", 8.5" or 10.5" rims. Also, use separate bolts for the inside and outside weights. I don't recall the lengths off hand. When I put them on my Original (pic in my profile) I just held them in place to verify the length. Looks like the inside bolts on my Original could be trimmed a bit...
I may have left them "as is" as they were close enough for me at the time.
Tim, the belt guards should be yellow. The length of the bolts (1/2-13 threaded carriage bolts) will depend on whether you have 6", 8.5" or 10.5" rims. Also, use separate bolts for the inside and outside weights. I don't recall the lengths off hand. When I put them on my Original (pic in my profile) I just held them in place to verify the length. Looks like the inside bolts on my Original could be trimmed a bit...
afoes
Active member
Tim,
I have weights on the inside and outside of my 582 and found that using allthread, with two nuts and washers is very easy. It is also nice to leave excess thread on the inside so that if you want to add more weight you can just let out some thread.
I have weights on the inside and outside of my 582 and found that using allthread, with two nuts and washers is very easy. It is also nice to leave excess thread on the inside so that if you want to add more weight you can just let out some thread.
I would like some advise. I have a 1967 102 that my grandfather had bought new. It worked hard for many years cutting many acres of land he had. Once he passed away I jumped at the oportunity to adopt it and repaint it about 13 years ago.
I believe it is on the third engine and the current engine is worn out. About 3 years ago I had a chance to buy a NOS 14hp short block. I was told it would fit if I used the 10 hp flywheel and metal.
Over the weekend I pulled the engine and did welding repairs on cracks in the frame and worn parts. This morning when I set the engine in the frame, I noticed the cast iron pan with the sump hits the cross member when I try to line up the pan to frame holes. The pan is also taller and prevents the engine from lining up from the drive shaft.
Since I have a NOS short block, I would like to use it. My questions are; 1) Is there a pan I can buy that is the same height as my 10 hp pan that has a sump that is not in the way of the cross member? 2) If not, would I be crazy to consider cutting the fin off of the rod cap and then us my old pan from the 10 hp? 3) How important is the rod fin for the oil splash on that engine? 4) Should I consider buying a rebuildable block for a 10 or 12 hp engine instead? 5) Do I have other options that are better?
My use will be rarely cutting the grass with it, moving my boat in and out of the side entry garage and moving snow with the blade.
I certainly appreciate any replies and advise.
I believe it is on the third engine and the current engine is worn out. About 3 years ago I had a chance to buy a NOS 14hp short block. I was told it would fit if I used the 10 hp flywheel and metal.
Over the weekend I pulled the engine and did welding repairs on cracks in the frame and worn parts. This morning when I set the engine in the frame, I noticed the cast iron pan with the sump hits the cross member when I try to line up the pan to frame holes. The pan is also taller and prevents the engine from lining up from the drive shaft.
Since I have a NOS short block, I would like to use it. My questions are; 1) Is there a pan I can buy that is the same height as my 10 hp pan that has a sump that is not in the way of the cross member? 2) If not, would I be crazy to consider cutting the fin off of the rod cap and then us my old pan from the 10 hp? 3) How important is the rod fin for the oil splash on that engine? 4) Should I consider buying a rebuildable block for a 10 or 12 hp engine instead? 5) Do I have other options that are better?
My use will be rarely cutting the grass with it, moving my boat in and out of the side entry garage and moving snow with the blade.
I certainly appreciate any replies and advise.
Just home from the shop getting my loader repaired. I now have good belt alignment on the pto to the pump for my loader. Now just put the bucket back on and I`am reday to put this tractor to work. I have a few yards of ground to load up and move with the diesel and power dump trailer. Life will be good with my loader running. lots to do . Later Don T
PAUL S. - Welcome to the best CC forum on the internet!
Sounds to me like your NOS Kohler isn't a CC-spec engine. There is an oil pan that will allow your engine to drop right in and bolt down to the frame and lne up with the driveshaft. I have a K321 (14 hp) Kohler in my CC 72, same basic frame as your 102 and the engine was out of a CC 147, and dropped right into my 72 after I swapped on a flwheel, blower housing, & bearing plate from a 12 HP K301. You better check the output crankshaft diameter, it must be 1.000" to fit into the PTO pilot bearing, and compare lengths to your 10 HP crankshaft too. I'm afraid your 14 HP may have a 1-1/8" dia output shaft.
I'd post a "Wanted to Buy" ad on this forum looking for a good used cast iron oil pan for a K321 CC engine. I'm not fond of the cast aluminum ones.
To answer your other questions, PLEASE don't cut the oil flinging finger off the rod. It's VERY important to the splash lube system.
You might be able to continue to bore out your 10 HP block to fit a new OEM size 12 HP piston. If your 10 HP block says "301" right above the output shaft you could go that route for your next rebuild. You could also investigate having an automotive machine shop press a sleeve into the bore and start over with a new sized 10 HP piston, 3.250" dia.
Sounds to me like your NOS Kohler isn't a CC-spec engine. There is an oil pan that will allow your engine to drop right in and bolt down to the frame and lne up with the driveshaft. I have a K321 (14 hp) Kohler in my CC 72, same basic frame as your 102 and the engine was out of a CC 147, and dropped right into my 72 after I swapped on a flwheel, blower housing, & bearing plate from a 12 HP K301. You better check the output crankshaft diameter, it must be 1.000" to fit into the PTO pilot bearing, and compare lengths to your 10 HP crankshaft too. I'm afraid your 14 HP may have a 1-1/8" dia output shaft.
I'd post a "Wanted to Buy" ad on this forum looking for a good used cast iron oil pan for a K321 CC engine. I'm not fond of the cast aluminum ones.
To answer your other questions, PLEASE don't cut the oil flinging finger off the rod. It's VERY important to the splash lube system.
You might be able to continue to bore out your 10 HP block to fit a new OEM size 12 HP piston. If your 10 HP block says "301" right above the output shaft you could go that route for your next rebuild. You could also investigate having an automotive machine shop press a sleeve into the bore and start over with a new sized 10 HP piston, 3.250" dia.
Dennis:
Thanks for your input about my 102. I do not know if the NOS is cc, I know the pan was not. The guy I bought the engine from said it was for a cub but he also thought it was a 12hp. I found the pan later. I did realize it was a 14 when I bought it. The price was about what I expected to spend on a rebuid. I will check the shaft tonight.
Thanks, Paul
Thanks for your input about my 102. I do not know if the NOS is cc, I know the pan was not. The guy I bought the engine from said it was for a cub but he also thought it was a 12hp. I found the pan later. I did realize it was a 14 when I bought it. The price was about what I expected to spend on a rebuid. I will check the shaft tonight.
Thanks, Paul
I got to looking at an Original frame I bought here a couple weeks ago, and I noticed something odd. There is a rod (similar in diameter of a lift rod for a snowblade or blower) that runs underneath the frame on the left side (same side as the implement lift handle). It goes through the frame out to the front of the tractor by where the mule drive for the deck sits. The other end of this rod is connected to the lift handle. Does anyone know what implement this is for? The frame is most likely a 62 or a 63, due to the lack of locking collars on the spindles. Sorry, I cant post pics due to the absence of batteries in my camera! Thank you for the time.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
By Donald Tanner (Dtanner) on Friday, March 25, 2011 - 10:56 am:
We I found out some more info on the hydro pump today from Wayne .
Notice the two bumps on the back of this basket. One is higher than the other. Since this moves back and forth for forward and reverse ,I`am thinking this is forward speed and reverse controlled by those stops.Can someone tell me if this is correct
<font color="0000ff">I've been giving this a LOT of thought these past few days. (that is WHY I've been silent and haven't posted here). I've decided to answer Don T.'s question and express my feelings. I don't want anyone getting upset or going on a high horse. </font>
Now about Don's question. Those bumps are there for a reason. They are STOPS. They are engineered in specifically to keep movement to a desired specification. Now BEFORE someone takes a wild hair to grinding or shaving them consider this.... IF YOU SHAVE/GRIND TOO MUCH OFF YOU RUN A VERY HIGH RISK OF BOTTOMING OUT THE PISTONS. When THAT happens you WILL damage your pump. How much is too much? I don't know and if I did I couldn't tell anyway.
If someone really desires a faster running tractor then put on bigger tires. Maybe you could get a little faster reverse by tinkering with the linkage.
NOW>>>> to address me being considered an expert. BY NO MEANS AM I <u>EVER</u> to be considered such a thing. It actually hurts me to be called that. I am just blessed to have access to many wonderful people that can answer with firsthand knowledge my many questions.
Another thing that literally baffles me is when someone e:mails me privately and asks for my help and to please NOT post any pictures or say anything on the Forum about a major screw up they've made. I respect their request until I go to read the Forum and see the very same pictures and everything that I was asked to keep private posted on the Forum. Then to have someone that doesn't have the same access or knowledge that I do question when I simply state, "You may as well throw that part away because the chances of it being good are very slim." .... well THAT gets annoying. If you've personally assembled around forty to fifty thousand hydrostatic pumps of all sizes and literally work with some of the best hydrsotatic people in the world, then please feel free to let me know. We'll sit down and compare notes. Trust me.... I've seen a lot of oopsies.
I've always said like so many others that when it no longer is fun then it is time to move on. AFTER ALL... it is just a darn garden tractor. Right now I am still contemplating posting here or really any other place anymore. There are many great people and that is what I've always loved about this site. I know some of the questions asked about hydros are truly innocent such as Don T.s. Maybe I've contributed some to here and maybe not. Only God and the Devil truly know.
Everyone take care and keep on Cubbing.
We I found out some more info on the hydro pump today from Wayne .
Notice the two bumps on the back of this basket. One is higher than the other. Since this moves back and forth for forward and reverse ,I`am thinking this is forward speed and reverse controlled by those stops.Can someone tell me if this is correct
<font color="0000ff">I've been giving this a LOT of thought these past few days. (that is WHY I've been silent and haven't posted here). I've decided to answer Don T.'s question and express my feelings. I don't want anyone getting upset or going on a high horse. </font>
Now about Don's question. Those bumps are there for a reason. They are STOPS. They are engineered in specifically to keep movement to a desired specification. Now BEFORE someone takes a wild hair to grinding or shaving them consider this.... IF YOU SHAVE/GRIND TOO MUCH OFF YOU RUN A VERY HIGH RISK OF BOTTOMING OUT THE PISTONS. When THAT happens you WILL damage your pump. How much is too much? I don't know and if I did I couldn't tell anyway.
If someone really desires a faster running tractor then put on bigger tires. Maybe you could get a little faster reverse by tinkering with the linkage.
NOW>>>> to address me being considered an expert. BY NO MEANS AM I <u>EVER</u> to be considered such a thing. It actually hurts me to be called that. I am just blessed to have access to many wonderful people that can answer with firsthand knowledge my many questions.
Another thing that literally baffles me is when someone e:mails me privately and asks for my help and to please NOT post any pictures or say anything on the Forum about a major screw up they've made. I respect their request until I go to read the Forum and see the very same pictures and everything that I was asked to keep private posted on the Forum. Then to have someone that doesn't have the same access or knowledge that I do question when I simply state, "You may as well throw that part away because the chances of it being good are very slim." .... well THAT gets annoying. If you've personally assembled around forty to fifty thousand hydrostatic pumps of all sizes and literally work with some of the best hydrsotatic people in the world, then please feel free to let me know. We'll sit down and compare notes. Trust me.... I've seen a lot of oopsies.
I've always said like so many others that when it no longer is fun then it is time to move on. AFTER ALL... it is just a darn garden tractor. Right now I am still contemplating posting here or really any other place anymore. There are many great people and that is what I've always loved about this site. I know some of the questions asked about hydros are truly innocent such as Don T.s. Maybe I've contributed some to here and maybe not. Only God and the Devil truly know.
Everyone take care and keep on Cubbing.
mpatterson
Well-known member
Kirk mentioned the engine backfiring....will just the carb being dirty cause this or are there other things that can do this? Reason I ask, the 782 I just bought with the replacement series II engine in it backfires sometimes. I started it maybe 4 or 5 times while trying to move it around (stalled on me, likely from crappy gas I figure since the cap was missing the clear plastic insert). Should I be looking for something else when I get time to work on it besides cleaning carb and checking out the gaskets on the engine. I have an oil leak somewhere I think that needs attention or unless someone can't aim a funnel when filling it up? I haven't take the time to look at it much, it was a quick off the truck and into the barn to keep from some nosey people to see it. That's another story
Mike-
The first thing I'd do is get rid of the gas. When I have a backfire issue the first thing I eliminate is the timing question. You can check the valves too which again eliminates doubt there. Plan on a carb kit and clean out the tank. These are just routine things I do to help know where I stand. I always replace the oil for the same reason. As far as the oil leaks go I pressure wash and watch and they're usually seals. After you clean it and run it a while it is easier to see leaks, or evidence of leaks.
.02 worth for the evening...
The first thing I'd do is get rid of the gas. When I have a backfire issue the first thing I eliminate is the timing question. You can check the valves too which again eliminates doubt there. Plan on a carb kit and clean out the tank. These are just routine things I do to help know where I stand. I always replace the oil for the same reason. As far as the oil leaks go I pressure wash and watch and they're usually seals. After you clean it and run it a while it is easier to see leaks, or evidence of leaks.
.02 worth for the evening...
Marlin Homrighausen
Your help is always rewarding. I asked that question about the bumps having seen that the pistons can move off center and soon thought that of course there are limits to the travel of these pistons.The piston faces must be able to make contact flat. I did Ask Wayne on the phone if he minded I post and ask the question, because having seen the internals of the hyro pump I did not want to guess . I was hoping some one could answer my question .What is almost impossible to do sometimes is help a person through email as to how to get themselves out of a jam. I don`t like to make a guess and then pas that info along. If I can learn, others will all so. Don`t give up on me now !This site is # 1
Wow I did get to move some ground with my 129 loader today. What fun it is to have it working great .I don`t like the job that was done on the hydraulic lines and my friend offered to make up steel lines next winter at his house. I will take it up in the fall and have nice neat looking Cub in the spring. I could not say no , He is the same guy I bought my truck from and installed a cam and lifters for me when he still was in school learning his trade.I will have a nice looking tractor to post here next spring. I guess I can then finaly put on the new decals I have.
Your help is always rewarding. I asked that question about the bumps having seen that the pistons can move off center and soon thought that of course there are limits to the travel of these pistons.The piston faces must be able to make contact flat. I did Ask Wayne on the phone if he minded I post and ask the question, because having seen the internals of the hyro pump I did not want to guess . I was hoping some one could answer my question .What is almost impossible to do sometimes is help a person through email as to how to get themselves out of a jam. I don`t like to make a guess and then pas that info along. If I can learn, others will all so. Don`t give up on me now !This site is # 1
Wow I did get to move some ground with my 129 loader today. What fun it is to have it working great .I don`t like the job that was done on the hydraulic lines and my friend offered to make up steel lines next winter at his house. I will take it up in the fall and have nice neat looking Cub in the spring. I could not say no , He is the same guy I bought my truck from and installed a cam and lifters for me when he still was in school learning his trade.I will have a nice looking tractor to post here next spring. I guess I can then finaly put on the new decals I have.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Marlin
I always enjoy your posts, you write well, and speak with authority on the topic of hydrostatic transmissions, but you have a softer side as well. Your value as a forum member to me lies more with your words of kind encouragement than your hydrostatic expertise. Your empathy is palpable. I will also remember the priceless pictures and your kitty cat Angel far longer than any posts about a transmission.
My advice is to post about what makes you happy. If you find calls on your hydrostatic expertise burdensome, you don't have to respond. You can't keep persons with "yellow fever" from acting foolishly at times. I feel your pain at being caught in the middle between people who want to use you to get information from the "real" experts. Perhaps you need to let the transmission speak for itself, responding to any modification questions with words such as, "Gentlemen, it functions as designed." If someone wants to change how it the functions, they need to consider the entire design, which is outside your purview. We all have to set limits, life is easier that way.
I always enjoy your posts, you write well, and speak with authority on the topic of hydrostatic transmissions, but you have a softer side as well. Your value as a forum member to me lies more with your words of kind encouragement than your hydrostatic expertise. Your empathy is palpable. I will also remember the priceless pictures and your kitty cat Angel far longer than any posts about a transmission.
My advice is to post about what makes you happy. If you find calls on your hydrostatic expertise burdensome, you don't have to respond. You can't keep persons with "yellow fever" from acting foolishly at times. I feel your pain at being caught in the middle between people who want to use you to get information from the "real" experts. Perhaps you need to let the transmission speak for itself, responding to any modification questions with words such as, "Gentlemen, it functions as designed." If someone wants to change how it the functions, they need to consider the entire design, which is outside your purview. We all have to set limits, life is easier that way.
