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Archive through March 24, 2014
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John,
To tell you the truth, I rather like the purple. What I like more is the idea that you put together this tractor especially for that cute girl in the picture, and that her very best friend is keeping watch over her work. Her other buddy warms the seat. I hope she has had a wonderful learning experience with this, and I hope she will cherish this tractor forever!
Good job, Dad! Be well.
Brian Wittman
To tell you the truth, I rather like the purple. What I like more is the idea that you put together this tractor especially for that cute girl in the picture, and that her very best friend is keeping watch over her work. Her other buddy warms the seat. I hope she has had a wonderful learning experience with this, and I hope she will cherish this tractor forever!
Good job, Dad! Be well.
Brian Wittman
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
John B. One very cool Cub Cadet that has been personalized. I like it. And your other project one looks great also. Now your daughter will need her own plow for Plow Day events.
(And a BIG Thank You to Terry D. for his donations on helping make that tractor a reality.)
John...How'd Ya get that "short wheelbase" effect with the camera??
J
jclazar
Guest
Very nice work JB!
harry B I have decided not to take out the balance gears for now. My motor did vibrate in the 1450. I think is was a flaw design in the 1450. ? However I'm looking at two things. 1. cut off and place a
dummy dip stick in the tube. Then cut me a piece of tubing and use a couple of brackets to put another actual dip stick in it to hold actual dipstick for checking oil levels. You can slide it in for checking as long as you don't start it. 2. try to use say like a 10 hp kolher in the 128 side oil stick mounting to put on my 14 hp with top dipstick. There are some dummy holes on the side, one being the gear cover and the other a small side plate about 3/4 inch high and 1 1/2 inches long I've never known what it was for anyway. I'll email you where to get your short block later when I see how they work with me
Thanks again
Jerry G
dummy dip stick in the tube. Then cut me a piece of tubing and use a couple of brackets to put another actual dip stick in it to hold actual dipstick for checking oil levels. You can slide it in for checking as long as you don't start it. 2. try to use say like a 10 hp kolher in the 128 side oil stick mounting to put on my 14 hp with top dipstick. There are some dummy holes on the side, one being the gear cover and the other a small side plate about 3/4 inch high and 1 1/2 inches long I've never known what it was for anyway. I'll email you where to get your short block later when I see how they work with me
Thanks again
Jerry G
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Jerry G - thanks for the come back with additional information. You mentioned "how well they work with me". I honestly feel this company should not have sold you the short block you received. Your 1450 would have originally had a Kohler Model K321AQS. I don't have the original Kohler Spec No from the tag on the side but that number would indicate your original engine did not have the balance gears. Your assumption about the 1450 engine having a design flaw is sort of correct (It's not the 1450 but the Kohler engine having the designe flaw). It's pretty well documented that Kohler added the balance gears in the earlier engines to provide the additional counter-weight to offset the crankshaft imbalance. Thru use they discovered the balance gears were a major cause of engine failures (they break loose and litterly fly thru the side of the block - someone else mentioned "put a window in the block). Around the time your 1450 was introduced Kohler had decided the best solution was to eliminate the balance gears completely from their engines - which they did and the engines do have increased vibrations as a result. So, this is why you find an FAQ on this site to just completely remove balance gears from any current engines.
Besides the balance gear issue I also wonder if you have the threaded hole in the front of the block to mount the "duct" for the exhaust muffler box. You've discovered the dipstick issue and may have this issue with the muffler. You need this duct and muffler box to keep the heat away from the engine when using it in an enclosed area like the 1450.
I don't like to say this but you could just leave the side panels off your 1450 and go to the cam cover dipstick (like you refer to for a Model 128). And leaving the side panels off will probably allow you to leave off the original muffler box. This more or less leaves you with the earlier style design of the 1x8/9 series. I don't like going backwards in the design but this would allow you to use your 1450.
The real best solution for you is the company provide you a correct short block designed for use in your 1450. Please keep us informed of how this works out.
By the way, that other cover on the side of the block you mention, about 3/4" by 1 and 1/2", is probably for a fuel pump which Kohler did use on some of their engines (I believe in Wheel Horse or John Deere tractors, or some commercial applications).
Besides the balance gear issue I also wonder if you have the threaded hole in the front of the block to mount the "duct" for the exhaust muffler box. You've discovered the dipstick issue and may have this issue with the muffler. You need this duct and muffler box to keep the heat away from the engine when using it in an enclosed area like the 1450.
I don't like to say this but you could just leave the side panels off your 1450 and go to the cam cover dipstick (like you refer to for a Model 128). And leaving the side panels off will probably allow you to leave off the original muffler box. This more or less leaves you with the earlier style design of the 1x8/9 series. I don't like going backwards in the design but this would allow you to use your 1450.
The real best solution for you is the company provide you a correct short block designed for use in your 1450. Please keep us informed of how this works out.
By the way, that other cover on the side of the block you mention, about 3/4" by 1 and 1/2", is probably for a fuel pump which Kohler did use on some of their engines (I believe in Wheel Horse or John Deere tractors, or some commercial applications).
Jerry-
I sort of understand where you're coming from but I do believe you're in for a lot more than you bargain for. You are going to encounter many things that will need changing. The FIRST thing I would do is get rid of the balance gears. If you're overly concerned about excess vibration then just send your crank to David Kirk and let him "balance" it with his counter balance. I think the whole process is something less than $150. The gears are relatively easy to remove. It takes less than five minutes once you get to them. There are spacers and shims on the gear posts which also need removing. The top most gear is the one that needs to be broken in order to remove. I use a long cold chisel to break the webbing and magnets to clean up the mess. The good gear you end up with makes a wonderful paper weight. Plus you can then use any dipstick configuration you want.
Another route would be to just find a good K321AQS and bolt it up and go. The 1450 is a great tractor and rather quiet compared to the 1x9s because of the side panels, the muffler box, etc. There were so many changes made from the 1x9s to the QLs that it's a real job to make an older engine work.
I sort of understand where you're coming from but I do believe you're in for a lot more than you bargain for. You are going to encounter many things that will need changing. The FIRST thing I would do is get rid of the balance gears. If you're overly concerned about excess vibration then just send your crank to David Kirk and let him "balance" it with his counter balance. I think the whole process is something less than $150. The gears are relatively easy to remove. It takes less than five minutes once you get to them. There are spacers and shims on the gear posts which also need removing. The top most gear is the one that needs to be broken in order to remove. I use a long cold chisel to break the webbing and magnets to clean up the mess. The good gear you end up with makes a wonderful paper weight. Plus you can then use any dipstick configuration you want.
Another route would be to just find a good K321AQS and bolt it up and go. The 1450 is a great tractor and rather quiet compared to the 1x9s because of the side panels, the muffler box, etc. There were so many changes made from the 1x9s to the QLs that it's a real job to make an older engine work.
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- Binder 1650
Gerry G,
FWIW - I had/have a Kohler Magnum single cylinder cast iron engine, similar to the K-series and it had a dipstick tube that bolted to the side of the engine vs the top corner/flat surface as is on the 10 hp engine in my 109. The tube was never painted or plated on the inside and would gather RUST - which of course would flake off into the oil in the engine. I removed the tube and bought a cam cover oil fill assy. If you faced the flywheel side of the engine, the original tube would have been on the far right corner of the engine. The hole you are describing might be that hole?
I took the balance gears out of the 12 hp engine I put in my 126 (out of a 122) and it was an easy job per the FAQ's above. Chizel and hammer on one and it shattered like glass and the other I believe I pried the e-ring off of it and it came off easy.
I've got a 14 hp engine I'm planning to swap into my 109, but before hand, I am going to remove the head and oil pan. Check the cylinder/piston and decarb the head from above and replace the oil pan gasket (and maybe the oil pan if it's aluminum) and remove any balance gears. For me - this is great start to replacing an engine in an IHCC.
Harry B - speaking of dipsticks and their location, when I first got my 109, I asked the question - is my engine original. I think the answers I got were fairly certain that the engine might have not been the original since the dipstick came off the top of the block beside the cylinder fins vs a cam cover dipstick. What was throwing me for a loop was that the tractor seemed to otherwise be original - even the engine was painted yellow vs black like the crate engines.
I was looking at a 1x6/7 operators manual the other day and they mention that the filler tube and dipstick on the can be on the gear cover (I read that as cam) or on the top face of the block, behind the S/G and the exhaust. Whereas in the 1x8/9 with the exception of the model 86, all filler and dipsticks were located on the cam cover. So I'm thinking that the engine in my 109 could have come from a 107 or perhaps IH was using up left over inventory when they built my 109.
FWIW - I had/have a Kohler Magnum single cylinder cast iron engine, similar to the K-series and it had a dipstick tube that bolted to the side of the engine vs the top corner/flat surface as is on the 10 hp engine in my 109. The tube was never painted or plated on the inside and would gather RUST - which of course would flake off into the oil in the engine. I removed the tube and bought a cam cover oil fill assy. If you faced the flywheel side of the engine, the original tube would have been on the far right corner of the engine. The hole you are describing might be that hole?
I took the balance gears out of the 12 hp engine I put in my 126 (out of a 122) and it was an easy job per the FAQ's above. Chizel and hammer on one and it shattered like glass and the other I believe I pried the e-ring off of it and it came off easy.
I've got a 14 hp engine I'm planning to swap into my 109, but before hand, I am going to remove the head and oil pan. Check the cylinder/piston and decarb the head from above and replace the oil pan gasket (and maybe the oil pan if it's aluminum) and remove any balance gears. For me - this is great start to replacing an engine in an IHCC.
Harry B - speaking of dipsticks and their location, when I first got my 109, I asked the question - is my engine original. I think the answers I got were fairly certain that the engine might have not been the original since the dipstick came off the top of the block beside the cylinder fins vs a cam cover dipstick. What was throwing me for a loop was that the tractor seemed to otherwise be original - even the engine was painted yellow vs black like the crate engines.
I was looking at a 1x6/7 operators manual the other day and they mention that the filler tube and dipstick on the can be on the gear cover (I read that as cam) or on the top face of the block, behind the S/G and the exhaust. Whereas in the 1x8/9 with the exception of the model 86, all filler and dipsticks were located on the cam cover. So I'm thinking that the engine in my 109 could have come from a 107 or perhaps IH was using up left over inventory when they built my 109.
