Archive through March 18, 2010

[dtanner]

Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"

I have seen them fittings on race equipment,Denny did that lol, i see a good coil and a acell wire and good fittings. Looks like it could work,lol something I might do. I bought a new starter today. see like Denny overkills Hope you never got vapor lock from the heat.

Oh I missed the point saver . nice

 

[elthomas]

Ken- that's funny no wonder I was having trouble turning right. Ha ha

Brakes- so there is no way to tell without removing them to see which kind I have? I'll ga nad try to look here in just a minute to see.

 

[elthomas]

Is that $32.00 dollars per pad? Wow if it is.

 

[mgonitzke]

Eric T.-

You can also get 3/16" brake lining material from mcmaster-carr for about $15 or so and re-line the brakes yourself, if you like.

 

[pszollosy]

my 123 has brakes now, thank you for the help, i cant believe nothing was rusted or stuck, must not have been up north in the snow and mud,i sold all my craftsman mowers, after riding on a cub cadet, there is no other tractor

 

[aschumacher]

ERIC...look up above at CCS advertiser. He has pad sets for $45. Set of 4 pads and adhesive to attach them. Riveting them on is a pain, BTDT.

 

[jbaker]

I need some help with my QL 1200.
During the winter while blowing some deep stuff it sputered and backfired and would not start after that, it just cranked away.
So today I finally messed with it and replaced the coil it started after that fairly quickly although it seemed to kick back on the first couple cranks.
I let it run and stopped and started a few times. later I went to put it back in the garage and it would only crank after much of that it backfired a couple of times while trying to start.
So I need some advice where should I start???

 

[rwagner]

Jeff I would check the points, see if they are pitted or out of adjustment. If that isn,t it post and I'll do some checking

 

[fcurrier]

Jeff: Put a good charge in the battery and try it again.

 

[fcurrier]

I left here tonight:

(Looks pretty good - a pic a few day ago would've broken the camera)
with a question. Do these valves:

use a common O ring (the uppermost one)?
The reason I ask is I've got a pretty bad leak and I think this is where it's coming from. And I felt like posting a pic.

 

[nhasson]

Are the spring assists for an original the same for other narrow frames? Thanks in advance, Nick

 

[digger]

Nick H.
Here's the Original assist.

Here's the Narrow Frame assist.

 

[digger]

Frank C.
They are both the same size.

 

[nhasson]

Thanks Charlie, I couldn't seem to find that picture. Now I need to find the bracket that bolts to the rear end. Someone gave me the other parts and my tractor had the bracket when I got it and I misplaced it. Nick

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG, DON - Those pic's are from the "Fitting" stage of installing the fuel tank. The "Roll-over" vent was taller than I planned so the tank couldn't be quite as tall as I wanted, so only 2-7/8 gallons. I still have the blue coil and Points Saver but need to reinstall them.

SON bought lots of Pretty Stainless steel braided hose & anodized fittings to plumb the tank, fuel pump, and carb.

I had some "fatigue Problems" with one of the mounting brackets for that tank. I wasn't real crazy about welding on the tank after it had gas in it so mounted the new plastic 8 quart Kohler replacement tank I had about two yrs ago.

I've got more steel, a better plan, just need some "motivation" to build the new tank. That tank is sitting on the shelf to be used as a pattern, still has the flush mount fuel cap & roll-over vent in it. I really liked that tank, pretty much all SON's work, everything sloped to the fuel pickup. It would drain every last drop of gas out of the tank.

That engine has been a real sweetheart too. K321 with most of Dave Kirk's Killer Kohler mod's. It's got about 150 hours on it now. I mowed with it a LOT last summer.

 

[rneubauer]

Just wanted to report that after spending the last few weeks in Italy, I have yet to see any Cub Cadets over here. Keep posting and definately keep posting with pics. I have a boatload of things to get done on the 1450 when I get back. I welded up the engine crade before I left and going to install new ISO mounts. I have to pull the front axle and tighten up the c-channel mount. Then put the rear lift on it and hook up the tiller. This 1450 was so beat up, it was a wonder it even ran. One bolt was left in the oil pan holding the engine to the frame rails which were loose due to bad ISO mounts.

 

[bmoir]

Happy last day of Winter. Time to drink the rest of your Sam Adams Winter Lager.
I took the 100 out for a cruise yesterday and would really like a creeper. Is there a shorter driveshaft that is used with a creeper installed or will I be able to bolt the creeper right in?
Thanks

 

[jott]

brian,if you get a good look at the driveshaft from under the tractor, you will see there is a groove in it about 6 inches ahead of the transmission. If you want to put a creeper in it you cut the driveshaft were that notch or groove is. there is already a hole in the driveshaft drilled for the creeper. hope this helps

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brian, THIS will explain the creeper install and about the mark on the drive shaft that Josh mentioned.

 

[bmoir]

Thanks guys. On another note, I've used the Valspar paint can in the Cub colors and the color is right on in my opinion