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Archive through June 29, 2009
- Thread starter bnolte
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Porter F. Odenbach,
When I was a kid ... I was a caddy at Inverness. It is (now) a world famous golf course. As I recall that is all they used. They even had special reel mowers for their greens.
I'm thinking, that's spelled I don't know, I might take some HP to work a 3-5 gang set up.
When I was a kid ... I was a caddy at Inverness. It is (now) a world famous golf course. As I recall that is all they used. They even had special reel mowers for their greens.
I'm thinking, that's spelled I don't know, I might take some HP to work a 3-5 gang set up.
Terry,
"What I was amazed at was how well that Honda held up after the collision......"
Good point!
"What I was amazed at was how well that Honda held up after the collision......"
Good point!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
I've got the engine for my 100 project completely stripped down now...Any reason I can't put the bare block in my electrolysis tank to clean it? The valve guides are the only thing I've leaving attached to clean it.
Also, the governor cross shaft is bent. Anyone ever seen that before?
Also, the governor cross shaft is bent. Anyone ever seen that before?
Well guys i say live and learn lession here. Got parts back from the paint shop and well its a good thing the 129 was just a worker and not for showing. Every place that the sand blaster took the rust off and down to bare metal now hurts the eyes
.There is pot marks everywhere.I see sanding marks and every problem. i never painted before and now see that when i do my O i will have to buy a gallion of filler just to have a smooth finish. Later Don T
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Don-
Yep...paint just magnifies pits, it won't cover them up. Next time, use some high-build primer.
Yep...paint just magnifies pits, it won't cover them up. Next time, use some high-build primer.
Matt Gonitzke (Mgonitzke) , well you would not beleive me but everything had 3 coates of high fill primer but the holes look like the roads around here. I think i should have filled them more. O well i have a rust less 129 worker that at 20 Ft will look good. Later Don T
Brendan Brigham (Bbrigham)I sanded and the blasted and sanded and washed it down with wax and grease remover ,the primed and sanded 3 times but i can see every issue.I`ll just put it back together and use the 129 now to move some soil and get it ready to install the Snow blade for this winter(power angle) later Don T
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Matt,
I would be concerned about hydrogen embrittlement, and what it may do to any bearing surfaces... If you bake the block aftwards, it should take care of the first part... I was thinking of dipping a front brake rotor, but i got concerned... I may dip a spare bearing race in the tank and see what it does to it... A dip in mollases/water solution may remove rust without issues... HTH
I would be concerned about hydrogen embrittlement, and what it may do to any bearing surfaces... If you bake the block aftwards, it should take care of the first part... I was thinking of dipping a front brake rotor, but i got concerned... I may dip a spare bearing race in the tank and see what it does to it... A dip in mollases/water solution may remove rust without issues... HTH
dwilkinson
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- Nov 9, 2008
- Messages
- 46
- displayname
- Doug Wilkinson
Porter Odenbach: While I do not have a pull type gang reel mower, I do have a Toro 3 gang riding reel mower - Professional 70 so I can offer my assessment of this type of mower. The lawn has to be flat ie no bumps to get a nice smooth job. Annual spring rolling is a must. They do not mow tall grass well and won't cut off those annoying shoots from wild grass plants and weeds. They work best on reasonably short grass that is kept short as when grass becomes too long it tends to lay down and since there is no suction as in a rotary mower to lift the grass as it is cut, the grass tends to grow along the ground. Some grasses are worse for this than others. They do however leave a nice even spread of clippings and mow grass with a lot less power and hence fuel consumption. Mine has a Kohler 141 rebuilt to 161 - about 6 HP and I mow my lawn of an acre with about 1/3 gal gas. I have a neighbour who mows his lawn with a tow behind 3 gang mower (6') and a 20 HP JD. I don't know how much power it takes to pull a mower but I'm pretty sure my CC 128 would work just fine. I hope this info is usefull to you.
mfrade
Well-known member
Porter, I do have a 3 gang pull behind mower setup and don't use it anymore for all the reasons below. It can do a very nice job but in the spring time you'd be mowing every 3 days so they would cut everything. Really long blades of grass are a bear to get to stand up to be cut. I ran the 3 gang MANY years ago, wouldn't want to do it again!
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Scott-
Hmmm...option 2 is the sandblaster. I'm not sure my mom would like it a whole lot if I put an engine block in her oven
Hmmm...option 2 is the sandblaster. I'm not sure my mom would like it a whole lot if I put an engine block in her oven
snicklas
Well-known member
Ronald B,
Not directly, you could not take the mower and undercarrage off the 122 and put it on the 1250. The 122 is a narrow frame tractor and should have a "bold on" undercarrage and the 1250 is a wideframe with a "Quick Attach" subframe, the arms on the front may have the section that would go back to the Frankenstine bolts, but they do not "flare out" to go around the frame on the 1250. Look at the pics farther down at the mule drive section in those pics. You may be able to put something together that would work.... but it is not a simple swap.....
Not directly, you could not take the mower and undercarrage off the 122 and put it on the 1250. The 122 is a narrow frame tractor and should have a "bold on" undercarrage and the 1250 is a wideframe with a "Quick Attach" subframe, the arms on the front may have the section that would go back to the Frankenstine bolts, but they do not "flare out" to go around the frame on the 1250. Look at the pics farther down at the mule drive section in those pics. You may be able to put something together that would work.... but it is not a simple swap.....
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Matt:
I've used it on cast iron lathe pieces that had bronze bushings with no issues. Remember - the guys on the Smokstak site refer to using electrolysis all the time in restoring stationery gas engines without issues and that includes babbited bearings
I've used it on cast iron lathe pieces that had bronze bushings with no issues. Remember - the guys on the Smokstak site refer to using electrolysis all the time in restoring stationery gas engines without issues and that includes babbited bearings
Denny
The K161 bore changed from 2-7/8 to 2-15/16 at Spec number 281162, which is a higher spec number than what was used in the 7 hp Cub Cadets.
There were several different recoil units used on Kohler engines, but the Cub Cadet used the Fairbanks type. They used the "3 legged" stand or mount ring and the Originals also used a 4th leg that was not part of the ring, HOWEVER, if you find a 4 legged ring (full circle) you can cut it and use it as a 3 leg. I always drill the coffin plate on the 70/71/72 and use the 4th leg, it helps stiffen it up and helps prevent breaking the 3 leg ring, which is the reason those models are usually found with the recoil unit broken or missing. The upper pulley and bearing for those models are NLA, as are the mag parts, although someone in the Chicago area was making the coils, but I have heard both good and bad about them. If you find a recoil off an Original, the spring and the pull rope can be reversed and the unit used on the 70-72 - it is the same unit, just turns one way on an "O" , and the other way on the 70-72.
The K161 bore changed from 2-7/8 to 2-15/16 at Spec number 281162, which is a higher spec number than what was used in the 7 hp Cub Cadets.
There were several different recoil units used on Kohler engines, but the Cub Cadet used the Fairbanks type. They used the "3 legged" stand or mount ring and the Originals also used a 4th leg that was not part of the ring, HOWEVER, if you find a 4 legged ring (full circle) you can cut it and use it as a 3 leg. I always drill the coffin plate on the 70/71/72 and use the 4th leg, it helps stiffen it up and helps prevent breaking the 3 leg ring, which is the reason those models are usually found with the recoil unit broken or missing. The upper pulley and bearing for those models are NLA, as are the mag parts, although someone in the Chicago area was making the coils, but I have heard both good and bad about them. If you find a recoil off an Original, the spring and the pull rope can be reversed and the unit used on the 70-72 - it is the same unit, just turns one way on an "O" , and the other way on the 70-72.
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