Archive through June 26, 2012

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Harry Bursell
Harry I understand that pin pump gear broke the pin when the chained rear tire got caught and stooped the tractor.The rear end is so overbuilt that the next weaker spot would be the pump pin and pump gear.If you look close at the gear I posted you can see where the pin would set into the inner gear and on the other broken small piece.The pin goes through the main shaft of the hydro pump and you can see that shaft turning on a good hydro.And yes the shaft goes completely through the hydro and has a section of teeth where it goes through the swash plate for transferring power . I forget the name for that part

I hope this helps some to under stand how it all works. The hydro is really quite simple I think .I have changed all the broken pieces and used another pump and have that tractor running now. Oh and yes the pin can break and that shaft will turn but the pump will not make fluid pressure so it will not move the tractor.I hope I covered all your questions in a way that you can standunder what I`am trying to explain . If not ask again .


Ge Frank I think you look cool on that Cub

Just why do you have wet knees ?

 

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Wayne Shytle

I think the break style PTO on my 129 will out last all the button styles by more than a few years.I think the break style was an upgrade style that CC did in later years.I think all CC could be changed to this style easily.

 

[jchamberlin]

Wayne Shytle -

Thank you for the explanation of how a correctly adjusted mechanical PTO operates. I didn't realize the fiber button wasn't in contact when the spring was depressed.

You're sounding like an expert to me!

I also didn't realize, until after studying the diagram that Kraig posted, how critical the tolerance is -- 0.0" to 0.030" -- I think there is that much play in the linkage!

 

[wshytle]

Don-

It could be changed easily but not inexpensively. The lever is even a little different at the hole and won't hold the wear button the same. There's a depression at the hole for attaching the brake disc instead of being just flat. I had that set-up on a 128 I got a few years back and changed it back to the old style. That was the only one I've ever had.

I can see where the brake style would last several years ok but I guess I'm just old school again here.

Frank-

What happens???

 

[brhodes]

Jacob
My dad changed the fluid on his 107 and after it would not move. Thinking it was the charge pump I broke it down 3 times before I found the little plastic cap in the return line. Could have fix it with out a tear down if I only knew. Kind of like Frank's ooppss..

Take a few minutes and look.

 

[wshytle]

Jeremiah-

The wear button IS in contact when the spring is depressed. The pto doesn't turn so there should be no wear. When the spring is released the wear button is suppose to be completely off of the thrust button so again, no wear. This is the hardest part to adjust and keep adjusted if the linkage has the play I spoke of before. It's really pretty simple and I think that's why I understand it.

I remember fighting these wear buttons as a younger man on Dads 128. Whever we went to get tune-up parts or anything we'd get a few wear buttons and kept a supply on hand. They were ridiculously expensive at $1.25 each too. I can also remember using grease which didn't work long at all. Young and dumb....

 

[brhodes]

Got my first K301 today. Had to go look at it when the guy dropped the price to 200.00

 

[brhodes]

And the guy let me have the Cub it was in for the same price.
Yellow Dog was pleased with the new find

 

[dross]

Alright I got the fan thing straight in my head. It messed with my lyxdesia really bad, thanks guys.

 

[chutchins]

My Grandfather has a International Harvester Cub Cadet 682. My problem is that the electric PTO will run fine when first engaged, but when the mower is hot and it's disengaged it will not re-engage. After a lenghty cool down it will operate fine again. No other problems beyond this.

I have the clutch removed completely, no excessive wear on any part of it. The magneto/field assembly is showing some of the copper winding.

So I guess my question is will the magneto/field assembly go bad (slowly) and are there any other issues that would cause this?