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Archive through June 13, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Charles G.
Yes there is a woodruff key and have you soaked it in PB Blaster or something like that?
A pickle fork or a puller works well. or a small pry bar, pry,turn,pry,turn and on and on and on.
beerchug.gif
 
Richard P.-

You can plow at full speed in a hydro if the soil conditions allow. Otherwise, just moving around to get from one place to another...it's the Cub Cadet equivalent of "road gear".

You can go very slow with a creeper. This table shows the speeds in all the gears at WOT:

153046.jpg


Honestly, though, I wouldn't bother installing a creeper unless you need one for snowthrowing or tilling or something like that. They are expensive and puke oil everywhere.
 
I found a chipper/shredder for an older Cub on craigslist. The guy wants $200 for it. I cant afford it but I thought I would let you guys know about it. The post is in NY, and the area is Corning/Elmira. I didnt think these things were too easy to find and I figured at least one of you might be interested.
 
Richard,
Looks like you are more or less good to go, and have figured out the whole head bolt thing. Burned out a head a couple of years ago blowing snow, and had to adapt a spare head. Nice to know exactly what it takes, in case you are in a pinch.

Anyway, we here in Maryland have been overly blessed with rain, so I gotta get out and make some hay. Hopefully my new seat will arrive before I need to cut it again.
 
Digger, Yeah. That's the Cub. I just like the way it looks. I've always looked at the goodies on it and thought that's what made it cool. But maybe it's that and the white fenders. But anyway that's the speed I'd like to get for some things. Like mowing a chain link fence line. I worry about maybe riding the clutch while I'm right up on it.

Matt Gonitzke, Great info from you as usual. Low first is about one quarter of first and that should do it.

Bruce Nolte, I see some nice Cubs in and coming out of Maryland. Are you responsible for those? Maryland isn't "that" big as I recall. I was pretty happy not having to swap out the head bolts. When I saw what I had I thought what was I worried about.. there is room for a truck in there. The S/G came with the engine and the one I had shorted out it's field coils when a bearing went south and the armature dipped. I'm thinking a little electrical degreaser and I can throw the brushes in it from the shorted out one. The spark plug could have been in a training film "this could be you". I'm surprised it worked. I spent about half an hour on it. Really.

I just put on the tunnel cover. Had to cut some 1/4 x 20 threads to attach it. I'm sure I'll think of more after I hit send. I want to thank all the members who have help me get this 129 going properly. From where I've been with this and the condition of one or two I've since gotten, the 129 is unofficially finished. And I'm glad. Thanks guys!
 
There are a fair number of Cubs here in Maryland, and up into South-Central PA. This is fertile, but rolling country around here, and it used to be an area of lots of small dairy farms that have either been broken up into large lot homesites for those who want to live on the fringes of suburbia, or converted to other agricultural uses, such as tree nurseries, vineyards, and small beef cattle or sheep operations. The large homesites and specialty and Gentleman farmers around here were a ready market for small tractors. Quite a few of the sons and daughters of the old farmers still live around here, and recognize the value of the old Cubs compared to the consumer grade stuff sold at the local Home Depot or Lowes, so they tend to keep 'em running.

Also back in the day there were a couple of very strong IH dealerships in the area that sold not only a lot of Cub Cadets, but also a lot of Farmalls from Cubs all the way up to the M series. Although the area is turning Greener(as in John Deere) there is still a lot of old IH equipment around and still running, and a decent Cub Cadet dealer nearby. There are also quite a few old tractor and engine shows in the area each year, which all have pretty decent flea market areas to find what you need as well.

Sounds like you got a good handle on the S/G as well, save the old parts, you never know what you might be able to use off of it in the future.
 
Charlie-

It seems like when you overfill them by more than a drop, a bunch will come out the breather. The first 128 I had did this all the time; the 2nd one I had usually wouldn't unless I drove it on an incline.
 
Bruce Nolte,
This is my "crew". I have a 104 under the tarp.
They aren't much to look at. But neither am I.

153048.jpg


153049.jpg


I know how this started. But I can't quit. I don't want to quit.
 
Richard,
Got a pair of 102's one in the garage getting a makeover, an heirloom 102 awaiting its fate, a 129 workhorse, and a 1650 parts tractor.

One of these days my Dad is threatening to drop in front of my garage an Orange tractor that has a 3 cylinder watercooled diesel, hydraulics, and a 3 point hitch. Says he's getting too old to cut the grass himself anymore, but he cuts mine when he visits, and has a guy cut it for him at home.
 
Ryan D Wilke
The motor has very little compression .I may rebuild it but I have already started taking parts off it for my other cubs.
 
Nice group shot Richard,I think you should take another with the 104 uncovered!!!

Ill have to disagree thats a good looking lot you have there

Jason
 
Bruce Nolte, It sounds like your dad whats his tractor to be where he wants it to be. With you. I don't think my father would cut my grass on a bet. I just priced out my wish/need list. Ca-Ching. And it's almost all basic stuff (X 3 or 4). But without the basic stuff taken care of what good would money spent on a few hydraulic parts be? After my last post I went ahead and cleaned up that SG and put in the brushes I saved. I did an on the tractor test and it tests OK. I can't flash the VR so there must be an open circuit in it. I had a SG on it that had all kinds of bare spots inside it so I'm guessing it got toasted from that. Toped off the Hytran too. I changed the filter and went from there. It took about an inch below the red part of the label..just over a half gallon. It's my bed time. See ya later.
 
Made some progress on the 100 this weekend.

153054.jpg

The box of clean and almost clean parts is getting more full every day.

153055.jpg

These parts are awaiting another round of paint stripper.

153056.jpg

I spent a lot of time fixing about a dozen extra holes drilled into the hood by a PO, as well as wear notches from the round things on the pedastal that hold the hood shut.

153057.jpg

While not perfect, this is a huge improvement over the jagged notch that was there...

I'm still hoping to get this done by RPRU. I'll be ordering decals and buying paint from a local place in the next week. The engine needs to come the rest of the way apart so I can decide what all I need to order yet...I've got rings and a governor and gasket set, but I need a rod, dipstick, and probably some other odds and ends.
 
jason davis,
Here's the 104.

153059.jpg


I switched engines to make it proper. So the exhaust is no longer like in the pic.
 
I need some governor advice. I picked up a 129 this weekend at a pretty good price. It's one of those examples of why some people shouldn't be allowed to use tools. The arm that pushes the hydro bypass valves broke off, so the p.o. had used a chisel to drive them down so he could move the tractor--then left it sitting out in the rain for three years before selling it two months ago to the guy I bought it from. The S/G was newly rebuilt, except it wasn't for a Cub Cadet. The front bracket was offset for mounting on the left side of the tractor. He had extended the upper bracket and installed a longer belt. Guy I bought it from thought the deck spindle were locked up, but it was just the deck belts rusted to the pulleys and the deck idler bearing was a little stiff. I got those issues fixed and rebuilt the carburetor. The deck has no rust through, baffles intact, and a new set of blades. My intent is to get it straightened out and resell it. It'll make someone a nice mowing tractor.

Problem is that I can't get the high speed under control. When I got the tractor, the governor holding screw was backed out about 1/4". Now no matter how I set up the spring, I don't seem to get any change in governor behavior. It's either idle or wide open throttle with not much control in between. The throttle lever might as well be hooked directly to the carb. I haven't been inside a Kohler in about 15 years. With that screw backed out, could something have come apart in the governor that's causing my issue?

Thanks,
Jerry
 
Jerry M.-

Try resetting the governor arm on the cross shaft as per the manual first. That's a problem a lot of times.
 
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