Archive through June 04, 2010

[ljones]

Kentuck,no it is not all you can buy yes you can buy leaded gas it is called airplane gas
(not jets but gas engin airplanes) it even sayes on the pump contains lead cost over $4 a gallon but it shure runs good in old tractors makes them start FAST and it doesent go stale I get it at my local airport.So does unlesded gas cause carbon buildup? I found the diagram,where do I hook the yellow wire for the headlights wire on the solinoid.

 

[ljones]

 

[kweaver]

Lucas - Hook the wire to the POS side where it is in the drawing. If you'll look there's a ground wire from the lights so the other wire has to go to positive. (the BAT + wire stud)

It's called Aviation Fuel and you can also buy Racing Fuel. Overkill using either in a stock Kohler engine.

 

[kweaver]

Lucas - It'd be cheaper to buy the 104 Octane Boost and use regular unleaded gas.
A friend of mine use to use it in his '74 454.

 

[ljones]

You lost me at the batt plus wire stud where is it . I only use aviation fule in my old tractors. I got a problem oil is leaking from my govener it drips from where the spring hooks on to it at.If I add headlights I need a charge indicator the jd 110 had a light that lit up
when there is no charge I would like one of those becaus they are easy to mount and can go in all kinds of places.

 

[jmacdonald]

A few days ago I changed out my 7hp on my mod 70 to a K181. Started up and ran fine for about 20 minutes. At times I could feel it shudder then if I stopped mowing it would clear up. Later I discovered it was overheating and I shut it down. After it cooled it started right up.
I searched the forum and adjusted the high speed jet open 1/4 turn thinking it might be running to lean. Next I opened up the shrowd and made sure there where no obstructions and cleaned out the fins and washed it down with a degreaser. There is a good amount of air blowing over the head while running.
Tonight it again ran good for 20 minutes. Would a sticky valve cause this and if so can I add some "MMO" and run for 20 minutes at a time hoping to clear it out or must I pull the head?

 

[mgonitzke]

James-

If the timing is off, that can cause overheating, as well. I just did a pretty extensive how-to on timing Kohler engines recently. Search for my name and "static timing" here on the forum and you should find it. Overheating might cause a sticky valve, but not the other way around. You also might want to make sure the carb is sealing against the motor properly and that the throttle shaft isn't loose in its bore. Those things introduce extra air into the engine and may be leaning it.

 

[jbliler]

Matt,,, will you share the popcorn????
Lucas,,, leave the "idiot light" to the deere folks, IH knew what an amp charge gauge was and they were available for all cubs. If they do not work they are worth fixing. From a cub to a large truck a gauge is begged for over a light.

 

[hydroharry]

Lucas - I thought it seemed ole KenTUCK was kinda raggin on ya, so I had a check of your profile. I now think I know why. I see your occupation is a "Murray Student" down there in Kentucky - so I'm figuring ole KenTUCK must be your Teacher. I gotta tell ya, you guys in Kentucky got all the best. Ole KenTUCK is the best there is, and all of us on here appreciate his instruction, even when we don't ask for it. If it weren't for KenTUCK half of us wouldn't know what we were doing, and the other half would be doing it wrong. I'm waiting for the day when ole KenTUCK gives ya a QUIZ - hoping you get a passin' grade.
Good Luck,
Hydro Harry

 

[crlamb]

I recently installed a new clutch in my wide frame model 1000 tractor. After reinstall, in tightened the adjusting nut "snug". Drove the tractor and everything was fine, but now it has started to make "scraping" noise. Can you leave the adjusting nut "too" tight or loose and cause this ??? Any thoughts as to what to check and do ??

 

[jmacdonald]

Thanks Matt I give that a try. Couldn't find it with a search, but I downloaded it from your web page "how to".

 

[kweaver]

Harry - I needed a tv break and I come back out and ... well I'm turning this kid over to you.
He lives in Murray but he's no MSU student.
We do still have some standards in this state , not many but some.

I can't tolerate stupidity.

He shows no signs of trying to open his eyes and see what is before him.

I'm not educated but I'm not stupid either.

I'm rough , I'm coarse , I'm to the point. This isn't a baby me , take me by the hand world.

 

[rwilke]

Lucas J.,
Do you recall the discussion on this forum a few days ago explaining that you should determine the total weight of the trailer plus the cargo & people expected to be on it and not to have that total weight exceed the weight of your Cub? If not, you may want to search it out. I'd hate to hear you were trying to do a nice thing, but it all got away from you while pulling the trailer down a hill....


HydroHarry,
I use either the Traveler's Heavy Duty SAE 30 motor oil (API rated SM, SL, SJ) or the Traveler's Diesel Engine Oil SAE30, depending on what my TSC has in stock. I lean toward the Diesel oil, because diesel users don't have to worry about harming some stinkin' catalytic converter with a little zinc or phosphorus. I don't know what the ZDDP content is in either motor oil. So, I do draw some comfort in my belief that the LUCAS additive covers me in that department.

I also like the fact that the LUCAS is REAL sticky - you can see this characteristic on the dipstick. Because it is so sticky, I think the LUCAS tends to reduce the "Dry Start" condition when my Cubs are started up after sitting for more than a week or more.... which is another good thing in my book. At first I thought it cost quite a bit, but a gallon will go a long way. I have come to really like what it does / has done for my engines.
Ryan Wilke

 

[dross]

Matt P, For never working on an engine like this before, so far, you seem to have a handle on things. I was in a couple helicopters back in the service. I still maintain a firm belief in gravity.

Charles, It's going to be difficult to help you with this one, your going to have open the hood and look for shiny metal, or evedence of whats rubbing, mabey listen close to get a better idea of the area it's comeing from. could you have tweeked the screen while working around it, did you reinstall the return spring? without it the throwout bearing will ride against the throwout arm. Is the noise constant or does it change when you depress the clutch?

 

[rwilke]

Hello - Anyone awake yet?

Ryan Wilke

 

[rnajecki]

G'morning Ryan -
Yes, we are awake in New England and checking the latest posts on what is the best oil and gas to use on our Cubs. I'm hoping to swing by a JD dealer soon and pick up a gallon of Torq-Guard.

 

[bproctor]

Matt G, I have searched several ways and no results for timing a K engine. Would you like to elaborate or even send an email?

Bob

 

[rnajecki]

Bob G - K engine timing was explained in the April 28-29 postings to this forum.

 

[mgonitzke]

Bob-

Here is my post; you can also download it from the "how-to" page on my website.

 

[bproctor]

I wasn't searching in the vault. I'm so embarrassed!! Thanks guys!

That is how I do it but wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly.