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Archive through June 02, 2013
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Having problems with some replacement parts for the deck on my 1650. It's a 50A deck and I ordered replacement Gator blades and a new deck belt. The label on the blades I received are Oregon 18.5" pn 96 333. They're too big - the deck requires 17" blades. Website and invoice state: "Original Gator blades for 50" decks", "Set of 3 for 50" IH made decks only Replaces PN/ 759-3813". The new belt seems too small as I can't get the idler pulley up high enough to get the belt on. It's almost tight enough to use if I bypass the idler. Invoice states: Mower deck belt for 38,42,44,48,50A decks 3/8 inch X 80 inch PN/IH-490489-R2. I want to see if someone can confirm what size belt I need and if I made a mistake or the vendor did. Thanks, David
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Wayne - yeah and I just can't believe I could sell or part out the 149 for enough to make the loader worth it - and it really looks to have been rode hard and put away wet .... Left front wheel bearing looked to be non-existant, for example (what a surprise on a loader unit, eh??)..
Terry
At least 3 different IH documents; Farm Equipment Division (FED)Tractor Committee Report NO. 37, dated June 2, 1960; FED Tractor Committee Report NO. 49, dated Sep 29,1960; and Product Identification Committee Decision NO. 505, dated Sep 21, 1960 all list only that the Cub Cadet paint colors be: hood, seat, grill and wheels be 901 Harvester White, the Foot rest, control knobs, handle grips, and steering wheel be black, and the balance of the tractor be 483 Federal Yellow. There is no number or name for the black paint although number 001 Black Canyon Black was in the IH parts bins and inuse on trucks at the time. Since the other black parts, except the steering wheel, had a flat or satin finish, and since on all the original paint Cub Cadets I have had the foot rest had a non glossy finish, I'm going out on a limb and say the foot rest should have a flat or satin finish, that and the fact the dull finsh does not show scrapes and scratches from your shoes like a glossy finish does.
At least 3 different IH documents; Farm Equipment Division (FED)Tractor Committee Report NO. 37, dated June 2, 1960; FED Tractor Committee Report NO. 49, dated Sep 29,1960; and Product Identification Committee Decision NO. 505, dated Sep 21, 1960 all list only that the Cub Cadet paint colors be: hood, seat, grill and wheels be 901 Harvester White, the Foot rest, control knobs, handle grips, and steering wheel be black, and the balance of the tractor be 483 Federal Yellow. There is no number or name for the black paint although number 001 Black Canyon Black was in the IH parts bins and inuse on trucks at the time. Since the other black parts, except the steering wheel, had a flat or satin finish, and since on all the original paint Cub Cadets I have had the foot rest had a non glossy finish, I'm going out on a limb and say the foot rest should have a flat or satin finish, that and the fact the dull finsh does not show scrapes and scratches from your shoes like a glossy finish does.
pfitzwater
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2011
- Messages
- 74
- displayname
- Patrick James Fitzwater
ok, so a little confused on adjusting the brakes. The pinned end they refer to is the end at the brake pads correct? disconnect the left rod and spin the right wheel. Do I adjust the left side? The side I disconnected? Should the peddle be in the full released position?
I have the brakes together but not adjusted obviously, and the brakes engage maybe an inch or two of the peddle being pressed, the nuts at the ends of the rods are only threaded on maybe a half inch.
I have the brakes together but not adjusted obviously, and the brakes engage maybe an inch or two of the peddle being pressed, the nuts at the ends of the rods are only threaded on maybe a half inch.
pstanaitis
New member
- Joined
- May 26, 2013
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- 4
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- Pete Stanaitis
Front PTO Clutch problem update:
I appreciate the help I got last week when I asked a whole bunch of questions about the mechanical PTO clutches on my narrow frame Cubs.
I did get things running fine.
But here's what I had been doing wrong!!!
Instead of adjusting the clutch hand lever to just barely press on the clutch button to disengage it, I had been (don't ask me why or when I changed they way I did it)adjusting the linkage so the clutch button just barely had clearance when the clutch lever was in the "engaged" (forward) position.
Duh- backwards!
So, when I disengaged the clutch, I was pushing so hard on the clutch button that I was deforming the clutch spring a LOT more than normal. This would seem to work okay for a while, but at some point that pressure would permanently deform the spring, so much so that, when I'd take the clutch apart, you could see that the spring was rubbing on the ID of the bearing!!! No wonder I had problems!!!
I'll never do THAT again!!!
Pete Stanaitis
--------------
I appreciate the help I got last week when I asked a whole bunch of questions about the mechanical PTO clutches on my narrow frame Cubs.
I did get things running fine.
But here's what I had been doing wrong!!!
Instead of adjusting the clutch hand lever to just barely press on the clutch button to disengage it, I had been (don't ask me why or when I changed they way I did it)adjusting the linkage so the clutch button just barely had clearance when the clutch lever was in the "engaged" (forward) position.
Duh- backwards!
So, when I disengaged the clutch, I was pushing so hard on the clutch button that I was deforming the clutch spring a LOT more than normal. This would seem to work okay for a while, but at some point that pressure would permanently deform the spring, so much so that, when I'd take the clutch apart, you could see that the spring was rubbing on the ID of the bearing!!! No wonder I had problems!!!
I'll never do THAT again!!!
Pete Stanaitis
--------------
Paul - thank you very much for the color info. In the absence of a definitive color I think I'll go with a low luster/satin black finish. Seems likes good compromise and at least I have some reasonable basis for that choice. I am curious if similar notices were handed down with later units such as the 1x2 series when they began using silver(ish) grills. Also, I'm assuming the truss head bolts used on later units to fasten foot rests were in painted - could be wrong on that as well. Thanks again.
David S.
If you'll check the FAQ's, you'll find that a 1650 with a 50" deck takes one of these 2 belts, and not the one that ya ordered.
http://cubfaq.com/belts.html
44",50" W/4.5" PULLEY IH-59971-C1 3/8 X 78"
44", 50" W/5.0" PULLEY IH-117465-C1 3/8 X 79"
If you'll check the FAQ's, you'll find that a 1650 with a 50" deck takes one of these 2 belts, and not the one that ya ordered.
http://cubfaq.com/belts.html
44",50" W/4.5" PULLEY IH-59971-C1 3/8 X 78"
44", 50" W/5.0" PULLEY IH-117465-C1 3/8 X 79"
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2005
- Messages
- 812
- displayname
- Binder 1650
Did a little maintenance on the 109 and 126. Put a new bearing/collar at the top of the steering wheel on the 109. The old plastic one was shot.
Put a spare deck belt on the 44a deck and it's good to go another round.
I had a spare muffler and attempted to put it on the 126, but dropped a bolt in the dirt and while nearly dark...
I"ll have to revisit the muffler install another day.
Speaking of mufflers, here is a pic of the muffler I took off the 126.
Other than what you see in the pic, the muffler seems otherwise intact and solid. I showed it to my Brother and he thought he could weld another end on it - if can do it, I'll give it a try.
Both the 109 and 129 have been on camp duty this spring. It is very dry in my neck of the woods - late August dry, even though it's June. The amount of dust in the engine bay on these tractors is very surprising to me. I need to pay special attention to the air cleaners in these conditions.
I mentioned the other day in a post about how fast (to me) the 126 motored along in 2nd gear. I've been around zero turn mowers, but never have ran one. While I'm certain I'm not mowing zero turn speed in 2nd gear on the 126, I'm knocking out a lot of grass in a short period of time with the 48 inch deck.
Put a spare deck belt on the 44a deck and it's good to go another round.
I had a spare muffler and attempted to put it on the 126, but dropped a bolt in the dirt and while nearly dark...
Speaking of mufflers, here is a pic of the muffler I took off the 126.
Other than what you see in the pic, the muffler seems otherwise intact and solid. I showed it to my Brother and he thought he could weld another end on it - if can do it, I'll give it a try.
Both the 109 and 129 have been on camp duty this spring. It is very dry in my neck of the woods - late August dry, even though it's June. The amount of dust in the engine bay on these tractors is very surprising to me. I need to pay special attention to the air cleaners in these conditions.
I mentioned the other day in a post about how fast (to me) the 126 motored along in 2nd gear. I've been around zero turn mowers, but never have ran one. While I'm certain I'm not mowing zero turn speed in 2nd gear on the 126, I'm knocking out a lot of grass in a short period of time with the 48 inch deck.
Charlie Z., a 44" deck under a narrow frame can be done. Steve B., was correct, Forum Member John Lang has/had a 123 (not a 122) that he used a 44" deck under. You have to mix and match the parts of the sub-frame so that the front mule drive is from a narrow frame but the rest of the sub frame has to be the hump back type as would be used for a 44" deck.
The above sub-frame would be the proper type however the front mule drive would have to me swapped out with a narrow frame mule drive.
Here is a photo of John's 123 with a 44" deck mounted.
The above sub-frame would be the proper type however the front mule drive would have to me swapped out with a narrow frame mule drive.
Here is a photo of John's 123 with a 44" deck mounted.
mconway
Well-known member
Bill J, I have a 109 and had the same issue with the muffler. I decided to braze the end back on and that was about 10 years ago and she's still goin' strong. Just my $.02...
If anyone is interested, I got the spindle on my 44A mower deck to take grease again. I was at Harbor Freight and they had one of the unblocker tools for $23. Filled it with Liquid Wrench, and tapped the that into the grease fitting. Then immediately was able to pump grease into the fitting. Now, I guess, I will keep greasing the spindle and hope the Liquid Wrench works its way out. Who knows, it might even get some of the old grease in the spindle moving around, could even be good for it.
1250/1450/1650 Hydro control question. On the plate assembly damper (part that holds the springs and moves the trunnion lever) there is a little pin that rides in the hydro control slot. My pin has some wear and I was going to weld it up and file it back down, but this Pin appears to be pressed into the part. Is it possible to press it out, turn it 90 degrees, and press it back in with some loctite?
I went to the Tri-State Engine abd Tractor swap meet last month, and came across these Grote tail lights
They are like the ones used on the early Cub Cadets however the markings are a bit different.
On the one on the right, the light is marked Grote, the lens is marked Grotelite 218, Patents Pending.
On the one on the Left the light is marked Grote 218, SAE-S-T, the lensis marked Grotelite 215-218
Both have the same type mounting as used on the Cub Cadet, but it is longer.
I compared them to the one on my 100, and the light on it is marked Grote 218 SAE-S-T, the lens on it is marked Grote 215-218, SAE-ST-1
The 3 lights are basically the same but the lens, although interchangable, are all different insofar as the reflector in the lens. These lights, like the "Original" head lights, were used on different pices of equipment such as some of the Farmall Cubs and offset Cub Lo-Boys, some of the numbered Lo-Boys etc., but at the whopping sum of $2 each, these will find their way to a Cub Cadet sooner or later. Wish the guy had more of them........
They are like the ones used on the early Cub Cadets however the markings are a bit different.
On the one on the right, the light is marked Grote, the lens is marked Grotelite 218, Patents Pending.
On the one on the Left the light is marked Grote 218, SAE-S-T, the lensis marked Grotelite 215-218
Both have the same type mounting as used on the Cub Cadet, but it is longer.
I compared them to the one on my 100, and the light on it is marked Grote 218 SAE-S-T, the lens on it is marked Grote 215-218, SAE-ST-1
The 3 lights are basically the same but the lens, although interchangable, are all different insofar as the reflector in the lens. These lights, like the "Original" head lights, were used on different pices of equipment such as some of the Farmall Cubs and offset Cub Lo-Boys, some of the numbered Lo-Boys etc., but at the whopping sum of $2 each, these will find their way to a Cub Cadet sooner or later. Wish the guy had more of them........
Rob N.
If your talking about this piece,
That is a shoulder pin that is spin welded now, but if yours is older, it could very well be brazed in.
Either way, you can't take it out and flip it because of the shoulder.
If your talking about this piece,
That is a shoulder pin that is spin welded now, but if yours is older, it could very well be brazed in.
Either way, you can't take it out and flip it because of the shoulder.
