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Loader tractor build - Research & Suggestions

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mpatterson

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If I were you, I'd be trying to add as little length as possible to the frame, or maneuvering is going to become very awkward. I don't see why you need all that extra frame ahead of the engine, and the exhaust and air cleaner can be rerouted. I'd also consider moving the radiator and fan and use a setup similar to the CC diesels. That will fit a lot better in there, and you may find you barely need to lengthen the frame at all.

I'm trying to find a proper picture - what is different with the 782D set up from CC Matt? I'm brain farting now..... aren't the engines in backwards in them too?

I want to make sure I have a long enough frame to keep the loader posts to the front of the floor boards. As it is these tractors aren't the easiest for a 6 foot guy to get onto with arthritis. Trying to make sure I have the least amount of obstructions. I wish it had the room a 982 did between the steering wheel and seat. Trying not to chop the frame up too much.
 
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mgonitzke

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Engine is backwards in the 782D, and the radiator is at the front of the tractor. Exhaust goes straight out the side, and the air filter is at the front left corner of the engine compartment behind the radiator.
 

kmcconaughey

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Here's a couple of old photos from my archives of a diesel Cub Cadet engine bay that might be helpful.

13326.jpg


13327.jpg
 

mpatterson

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Engine is backwards in the 782D, and the radiator is at the front of the tractor. Exhaust goes straight out the side, and the air filter is at the front left corner of the engine compartment behind the radiator.
Ok, I could have sworn the rad was towards the back in those tractors?
I have it shortened up to about 12" to 14" right now. Was working on it yesterday for a bit. Still need to do some measuring, but I think I can get the battery in the front between engine and grill, set it off to the left side keeping it away from the exhaust as much as possible. I'd like to re-route exhaust in a way, but will have to see?
That would leave me putting the fuel tank either between rad and dash tower keeping it as short as possible not to cover very much of the rad. OR I put it in the back under seat? That area isn't very plentiful if I want any sort of fuel tank on it. Thinking the aux hydraulic tank will need to be on or in the loader post as of now unless I can find more space.
Got looking again yesterday Matt at the tractor because you asked about why I needed the frame so long - the front axle is really close to the end of engine where the pully is that will drive the hyd pump for loader. I have to watch how much space I leave there because it will be sandwiched between the front axle and the oil pan - unless I make a drive shaft to run it on the outside of the frame at the front. I'm worried about cutting into my ground clearance, was trying to keep it from hanging down too much.
I was able to take the drive shaft out of the 1650 Massey I have to get the connecting coupler off to help with the mock up on this tractor. Coupler has Hub City stamped in it. 3/4" splined shaft, 11 splines to go directly on the hydro unit. Best place now a days to order this stuff? I'm assuming for you guys in the USA its still McMaster? Ran into this issue with my 450 blower rebuild last year. Never did get any info back from that Quebec company one of you's kindly directed me to. They had what I wanted but no go on getting one. IF I have to have a machine shop make me a coupler - is there a specific terminology used to describe it other than splined shaft? These things aren't like threads on bolts and have #'s to describe the pitch? I'm not a machinist, that's why I am asking.
Thank you for the pictures Kraig.
New hoses to re-route the airbox should I need to - NAPA is the best place? Take the old one in for sizing and then tell them the shape you'd like and go from there to see what they can get?
 

mpatterson

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Lucked out yesterday, went to tire shop to get a tube put into the one tire off 982 as it kept leaking down and came home with some unexpected bling. Made a deal with tire guy for some 26x12x12 tires & rims he had used off a Kubota zero turn. One has a plug in it so may eventually need to tube it, but they should work just perfect for this tractor. WAY bigger tire than what is on it. Forget about the big boy pants - we've scored some big boy boots. :banana-guitar:
 

mpatterson

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Question for all you engine guys.... how do you tell/test your glow plugs to see if they are actually working the way they should be? I'm sure it isn't a matter of if your engine starts, they are working. The dummy light on the dash for my glow plug on the 662 Kubota sometimes takes a bit to light up - or is that the way its supposed to work? Only asking because the B1700 my uncle has once you turn the key to glow, the light comes on to know its working. Is that the same for all glow plugs in Kubota engines? Possibly just a loose connection or corroded?

Was able to get the frame extended today and welded up. Haven't finished cleaning it up yet - beer was calling me!

Suggestions for the front axle style? I was debating on making a square tube axle then have the ends adjustable and then down to spindles? Thinking the heavier duty will prove to stand up over time with the weight of loader and moving stuff with it.
 

mpatterson

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Was able to find time to work on loader tractor this weekend. Extended the frame to make room for all the goodies under the hood. In the end I'm about the same length of the 982. I added two 3/4" nuts and two 1/2" nuts to the front end, welded them on for future mounting purposes. Cleaned the threads up on the side ones as well. Still need to see if anymore reinforcement is needed. All in all I think it turned out ok. Next step, drop the diesel in to see where mounts need to go.
 

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mpatterson

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If I were you, I'd be trying to add as little length as possible to the frame, or maneuvering is going to become very awkward. I don't see why you need all that extra frame ahead of the engine, and the exhaust and air cleaner can be rerouted. I'd also consider moving the radiator and fan and use a setup similar to the CC diesels. That will fit a lot better in there, and you may find you barely need to lengthen the frame at all.

So I reread this posting and well i think it just clicked in my pea brain.
The engines in the 782, they physically move the fan to opposite end of engine, flip over the fan so its traveling in correct direction? If so, where are they running lower rad hose, under oil pan or along side of block? I see in Kraig's pictures the upper rad hose is running over the top with extra padding to protect it. Was this parts that could be bought from Cub or you had to go direct to Kubota?
 

Stu

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well, if you flip the fan over it'll still blow the same direction, sadly. Very cool project though, I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes.
 

mpatterson

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well, if you flip the fan over it'll still blow the same direction, sadly. Very cool project though, I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes.
Yeah, I was thinking the fan and the rad gets moved to the other end of the engine (so what used to be the end facing the front of donor tractor WITHOUT the rad, now becomes the end facing the front of tractor WITH the rad). Am I not thinking that correctly now, that's what Matt was trying to explain to me and I wasn't getting it? I figured the fan would need to be flipped over as it was going to the opposite end of the engine. Thanks, I'm looking forward to making some good headway with it.
 

kmcconaughey

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Here's some photos from a brochure that might help you envision it. Note the orientation of the muffler in both photos.

SalesCatalog1987GT-10a.jpg


SalesCatalog1987GT-11a.jpg
 

mpatterson

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Thank you for more pictures Kraig, they are always welcome!

So if I mount the rad at the front of the tractor, is there a kit (was their a kit) to make it so I can mount the fan at that end of the engine? Or do I need to fabricate some sort of bracket with a shaft to mount the fan and somehow bolt it to the block and then drive it with a belt off the lower pully that is on the flywheel?

Currently there is a 3 bolt flange to a splined shaft bolted to the single groove pully which ran to the old drive line in the rear of the Kubota. This single pulley drive the fan/water pump, etc. At the other end (where I want to put the rad) there is a 2 groove pully that is bolted on with 5 bolts. This was used to run the front pto and the center mount deck on old tractor.

I want to keep the two groove pulley on in order to drive the hydraulic pump for the loader - I would only need one belt to drive that so I have another groove available to run the fan.
 

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dschwandt

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David Schwandt
Check out this thread for fan mount info

 

mpatterson

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Check out this thread for fan mount info

Yes! That us the info im looking for. This will help.
 

mpatterson

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Just thinking out loud here.... CAN the fan be mounted to run that the air blows through the rad FROM the engine out the front grill? Reason I ask, really debating making the hood the same as the 88 series farm tractors with the grill on top of the hood where they suck the air in the top and blow it out the front. My 3688 is like that and kinda would like to that that style hood I think. Would there be any issues for cooling the engine?
 

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mpatterson

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Did a little more work this weekend as it wasn't quite as crazy cold.

Had a heck of a job removing the woodruff keyed hub to get seal out of rear axle. Used my steering wheel puller I made years ago. Had to beef it up some first. Seal was equally hard to get out. Hammer and chisel required. Can normally use hook to get them out- nope!

Started working at the fan repositioning on the engine. Fan will rotate to suck air in top of hood and blow out front grill. Got the first bracket partially completed. Hipe to be able to make the set up that dschwandt showed. Have to nail down a few parts to purchase but should be good.
Mocked up the grill and rad, might be able to make it work???
 

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mpatterson

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Where do you find the upper and lower rad hoses for the Kubota engines now? They are NLA from Cub. Anyone happen to have the part numbers through Kubota for the following?
735-3019 - Lower Rad
735-3020 - Upper Rad
 

mpatterson

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Think I might have my drive shaft issue solved? Old shaft from G1700, cut off end with fan on and make a new end with 11 spline coupler to the hydro unit. Thinking if i put a tube over this shaft and put a couple roll pins through it??? Will have to rig fan up for cooling hydro still.
 

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