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Loader tractor build - Research & Suggestions

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Wish I would have thought of taking photos during the build, but I did build a loader for my old cc72.
The bucket was a Swisher ATV bucket sold at farm & fleet years ago.
Don't have the loader anymore, and been thinking of building another.


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Wish I would have thought of taking photos during the build, but I did build a loader for my old cc72.
The bucket was a Swisher ATV bucket sold at farm & fleet years ago.
Don't have the loader anymore, and been thinking of building another.
I bet you miss the loader since you sold it! If I had one I couldn't imagine going without one.
See you ran a pump off the front of the engine - any chance you remember how large it was ? Where did you have your hydraulic oil supply tank placed?
I bet you miss the loader since you sold it! If I had one I couldn't imagine going without one.
See you ran a pump off the front of the engine - any chance you remember how large it was ? Where did you have your hydraulic oil supply tank placed?
I belive it was a Easton pump, purchased from hardware store.
Oil tank was mounted on the back of tractor, see black box in photo.
I actualy used that loader so much that the pin holes on the bucket was worn egg shape, than tractor and loader sat in barn for close to 10 years before I sold the loader, but I kept the tractor.
Holy crap! I'm hoping I won't have to put that much weight on.
I'm hoping to get the supply tank either under seat or in the loader post as of now?
Question for all you engine guys.... how do you tell/test your glow plugs to see if they are actually working the way they should be? I'm sure it isn't a matter of if your engine starts, they are working. The dummy light on the dash for my glow plug on the 662 Kubota sometimes takes a bit to light up - or is that the way its supposed to work? Only asking because the B1700 my uncle has once you turn the key to glow, the light comes on to know its working. Is that the same for all glow plugs in Kubota engines? Possibly just a loose connection or corroded?

Was able to get the frame extended today and welded up. Haven't finished cleaning it up yet - beer was calling me!

Suggestions for the front axle style? I was debating on making a square tube axle then have the ends adjustable and then down to spindles? Thinking the heavier duty will prove to stand up over time with the weight of loader and moving stuff with it.
I always use a temp gun and test the heat of each glow plug and wire ohm’s !!!!
Got the upper rad hose last night that I ordered in relocate the rad to flywheel end of engine. Will need to trim off the end that is flaired out, but that is minor. Still working at the best solution for bottom hose.


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Was able to work at the tractor a little more yesterday. Didn't make HUGE progress by any means - but I got some stuff accomplished!
Switched the hydraulic valve controls from the spare tractor (1650) to the 1450 as they were in better condition and will be a better fit for adding another valve for rear couplers. I then was able to use the old coupler for the input shaft and a impact driver bit, weld them together and see if hydro worked or not. Put the 1/2" drill on it and spun it CW the same as the engine is turning and it didn't blow apart! :LOL: Had it jacked up and in neutral to start then tried out both ranges in both directions, all was good. Now as long as it will work when I put it on the ground and my fat a$$ is on it giving it a load to move! I tried the two hydraulic levers, moved both the 3 pth & middle lift cylinder. Later discovered the middle cylinder is leaking at the rod end, so will see if the other tractors cylinder is in better shape or if I need to get a cylinder kit?
I then moved the dash tower ahead about 3 inches or so (used two of the bolt holes in the frame), and adjusted the angle of the support brace. This will give me just about the same amount of space between my belly and the steering wheel as I have on my 982 Cub. This tractor is about 6" longer than the 982 to give you and idea of size. I was also able to get the speed range lever to work correctly AND able to get it into the PARK position. This took a little bit of convincing at the stop block and the addition of a larger stop pad.
I cut the one universal joint assembly off the donor drive shaft, installed a new cross kit in the end I was keeping for the engine end. Man I hate installing cross kits. What a tedious job. I just need to get some heavy walled tubing to slide over the shaft and then complete the hydro end of the drive shaft. Oh, I did take the plunge and get the 11 spline coupler from Massey Dealership. I figured it was a lot easier to drive 15 minutes to get it than to screw around ordering one from Surplus Centre - my luck it would get stuck at Customs for a month. So I now have a perfectly fitting coupler for the hydro end of the shaft.
Next was the engine mounts. With a lot of measuring, frigging around with the level and a piece of flat bar as a makeshift drive shaft, I'm confident I have the mounts in correctly. Everything is level and from what I can see going to be running square. Mounts were made from scrap bent steel I had under the bench. Welded those to the frame and so far they seem like they won't get in the way of other stuff. The oil pan was clear of any cross members of the frame so that was nice. Think I should put a skid plate in front of the pan though (will measure to be sure first) but I think the drain plug is going to be below the front axle? That's something to check out when the time comes, don't need to rip my drain plug off some day.
I mocked up where the rad and the front grill should be placed to give me more of a visual. Will be better once I'm done with the engine so I can move it away from the bench and get a better look at front for proportions and style. Need to figure out where to place the muffler too. Is there an written or unwritten rule about exhaust piping - can I have 90* corners or do they need to be curved? Was thinking of making the exhaust pipe from the manifold flange and have it curve right around so I can have it vertical. Was thinking of using thick walled round stock and welding it up, but the corners would be cut to 45* and welded together as I don't have a bender. Didn't really want to use the water pipe stuff you buy at the hardware store unless I had to? I'll have to make the 3 bolt flange to attach it to the manifold..
I'm thinking the speed I'm completing things on this build, it should be done in a couple years!


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Haven't been too productive on this tractor build over the past couple weeks. I did manage to get the 3pth installed. I have to either straighten the one half of the top link or make a new one. Looks like someone got a little rammy with something? Nothing serious, but certainly isn't straight.
Brass bushings in bracket on the frame seem to be in good shape, so thats good.


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Looking to build a fuel tank for my garden tractor build - anything I should know about them?

So far, plan is to use likely 14ga flat sheet material and hopefully bend the edges to make the corners rounded, then weld the seams. Was going to use an old fuel gauge in it that is wired to gauge in the dash. Thinking of putting the discharge outlet on it running to the engine at the bottom corner and then a return line coming from engine back to top portion of the tank. Was hoping to use the outlet hole (threaded) to attach a tire valve to in order to pressurize it to test for leaks. Fill tube will be either in very top or on back side.

Right now have it planned to have a rectangular tank with the one end dropped down about 4 inches the full width to give enough room for the float on the gauge to work, this will also use an area above the rear axle under the seat a little more efficiently and give me more fuel storage. Tank will roughly be about 4.5 gallons when completed. Looking to incorporate it into a saddle tank sort of - there will only be a tank on the one side as the other has the hydraulics mounted over the wheel. Will then cover it with the fender and hopefully incorporate in some round head lights at the front of the fender.

Figure I'll need to build a bender for the sheeting if bending the edges is the better way to go to seal it up. Do I need to treat the steel on the inside of the tank with anything? Or do I just make sure the surface rust and dirt is cleaned off it before welding it closed?

Any expert thoughts, tricks, ideas would be welcomed.
When applying pressure to the tank to test for leaks, limit your air compressor as low as you can, less than 5psi. It will take very little pressure to blow up a rectangular 14ga welded tank.

Perhaps a manual bicycle tire pump?

This is what I'm thinking so far, saddle type tank set up.


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You could hose clamp a bicycle inner tube to the fuel filler and outlet, and use the inner tube valve to inflate, plus the expansion of the inner tube would provide a buffer against over inflation.
Finally found some time to work on this project this past weekend. Not finished by any means, but at least started. 3/16" black water pipe, just what I had in the steel rack. Once figure out the finished height for muffler to mount, will figure out a brace.
Any of you diesel guys have pictures of how high your muffler is mounted ? Above or below top of hood?


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Was thinking of mounting this one vertical in hopes of getting exhaust away easier? Going ro have a loader on, so was keeping it as close to hood as possible. 🤷‍♂️🤔

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