-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through July 28, 2009
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Poor Art.
Maybe Charlie will tell us where the new server is. I'm at eastern time, with a 3 hour difference in posting time...Guess its on the west coast, or just into the Pacific!
Maybe Charlie will tell us where the new server is. I'm at eastern time, with a 3 hour difference in posting time...Guess its on the west coast, or just into the Pacific!
I was gonna add duals but decided it was to much work,
So I decided it would be easier to add a Cat. 0 to a 169.
It never ceases to maze me that people let things get so freakin dirty.
It looks a little better now,
After about 45 minutes, the Cat. 0 was in place,
So I figured it needed the Gannon attached, which looked pretty cool and works even better than I had thought it would.
Now all I have to do is take it all apart and throw some paint on it.
I've still got it in my feeble mind that a black 169 would be kinda cool looking.
So I decided it would be easier to add a Cat. 0 to a 169.
It never ceases to maze me that people let things get so freakin dirty.
It looks a little better now,
After about 45 minutes, the Cat. 0 was in place,
So I figured it needed the Gannon attached, which looked pretty cool and works even better than I had thought it would.
Now all I have to do is take it all apart and throw some paint on it.
I've still got it in my feeble mind that a black 169 would be kinda cool looking.
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Previous post lists 05:14 pm
actual time was 08:14 EDT
actual time was 08:14 EDT
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
A black 169 with big bright orange flame decals would be cool ! <font size="-2">(If your gonna customize, go whole hog!)</font>
Charlie "Digger" Proctor,
What do you have going on with that front left wheel? Is it something to measure miles?
Did you use a power washer you get rid of all that crap? And would you paint the white black for a bumble bee look? If ya did the whole tractor black would you paint your implements to match? I think I asked everything except how have you been. Keep playing with those Cubs.
What do you have going on with that front left wheel? Is it something to measure miles?
Did you use a power washer you get rid of all that crap? And would you paint the white black for a bumble bee look? If ya did the whole tractor black would you paint your implements to match? I think I asked everything except how have you been. Keep playing with those Cubs.
I'm at the point of getting to serious work on my 127 AND will have a lot of questions. Please bear with me but I think I've done my homework reading the forum constantly for over a year and a half. I've got to go for it before my neighbor kicks me out the the garage. Here goes:
Could the problem with the speed control lever not moving either direction be as simple as the 'N" control rod not releasing?
Do I have to have to split the tractor to work on the Hydo controls/linkage/adjustment or can I work on it from underneath?
Could the problem with the speed control lever not moving either direction be as simple as the 'N" control rod not releasing?
Do I have to have to split the tractor to work on the Hydo controls/linkage/adjustment or can I work on it from underneath?
Richard P.
Noper, just ags on the front. They work really well in the snow and the sand up this way.
No power washer, just simple green and the garden hose, spray it on, walk away for a hour, come back and blow it away.
On the paint, all black. No bumbles for me thank you. LOL
Noper, just ags on the front. They work really well in the snow and the sand up this way.
No power washer, just simple green and the garden hose, spray it on, walk away for a hour, come back and blow it away.
On the paint, all black. No bumbles for me thank you. LOL
Strait H.
If it were me, I'd check the friction disk on the lever and or do the Operation Neutral adjust first.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html
All that has to be done from the underside, be prepared to get a few buggered knuckles too!
Matt S.
Yepper, all 1450's have hydraulic lift. And yes they are pretty much bullet proof, unless you add 300+ pounds to an implement, and then all you'll do is blow hoses, BTDT.
If it were me, I'd check the friction disk on the lever and or do the Operation Neutral adjust first.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html
All that has to be done from the underside, be prepared to get a few buggered knuckles too!
Matt S.
Yepper, all 1450's have hydraulic lift. And yes they are pretty much bullet proof, unless you add 300+ pounds to an implement, and then all you'll do is blow hoses, BTDT.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Matt-
Yes, they all have hyd lift, and they only break when Charlie owns them...
Yes, they all have hyd lift, and they only break when Charlie owns them...
Strait When I got my 147 the speed control was bound up so bad that the PO had bent the "N" rod. See illustration 2-43 in the service manual for the correct shape. I sprayed penetrating oil on the friction disc area to free it up,then it was too free and the friction adjustment needed to be adjusted. The manual says to use a wedge to turn the nut,I sacrificed on old wrench to make a special tool. On my 147 there is a cut out section that is covered up by the fender pan assy. With the fender pan removed I had limited access to the adjustment,most of which I still had to do from below. Also see the FAQ on "Hydro Trunion Repair" and check for that problem while you are in there, my 147 was just about to lose its springs. My 147 now has the replacement style oil suction line that does not loop up and over,which made access to the adjustments much easier.
anyone know what you get with "IH-56286-C92" , a complete wiring harness for the 128?
I mean, do you really get every wire on that tractor? battery cables, wires to voltage regulator, wires to starter, wires to headlights?
I am chasing a very elusive stalling problem and I am now wondering if it is a bad wire somewhere. rather then replacing wires one by one, i was thinking of doing them all at once.
the tractor was poorly cared for when i got it, so i know all wires will have to be replaced eventually anyway.
I mean, do you really get every wire on that tractor? battery cables, wires to voltage regulator, wires to starter, wires to headlights?
I am chasing a very elusive stalling problem and I am now wondering if it is a bad wire somewhere. rather then replacing wires one by one, i was thinking of doing them all at once.
the tractor was poorly cared for when i got it, so i know all wires will have to be replaced eventually anyway.
CHARLIE - You've been hanging around WAY too much over on the WRONG side of the RR tracks! Next You'll want to paint a CC ALL Yellow or something!
Anyhow, there was a '61-'63 vintage CC @ RPRU that was painted red & white. I actually thought it looked pretty sharp. The '63 CC Dad bought brand new and traded-in on the '65 vintage CC 70 was repainted exactly like that tractor before it was resold. Dad talked to the Guy that bought it back in '65 about 10-12 yrs ago and it was still mowing the Guy's lawn every week. And it had already been over a LOT of tough ground when DAD traded it after only three years!
Anyhow, there was a '61-'63 vintage CC @ RPRU that was painted red & white. I actually thought it looked pretty sharp. The '63 CC Dad bought brand new and traded-in on the '65 vintage CC 70 was repainted exactly like that tractor before it was resold. Dad talked to the Guy that bought it back in '65 about 10-12 yrs ago and it was still mowing the Guy's lawn every week. And it had already been over a LOT of tough ground when DAD traded it after only three years!
Hi, I'm new here, so bear with me. I've got a CC 100, and recently hit an immovable object while mowing. Other that a nick, the blades and shafts are fine. However, I think I killed the PTO clutch. It slips to the point that the blades barely turn. I've done all the work on this tractor, but have never messed with this. How much of an ordeal is it to rebuilt the clutch unit? Thanks, Mike B.
Mike, welcome!
Do the mower deck spindles turn freely by hand?
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
before you tear into the PTO check the tension of the mule drive belt, the one that runs the deck from the PTO, if its too lose it could slip causing what you are talking about. all you've got to then is tighten the lock-nut on the belt tensioner sticking out the front of the mule drive
Hi again, the mule belt was tight, so I took the tension off of the deck belt. The outer spindles were free, the center was a little tight. I'm going to pull it apart later to see what's going on there... still, with the pto engaged, I can still hold the PTO housing and turn the pully without much effort so I'm afraid I'll have to tear into that as well. Any hints or things to look out for? Thanks, M.B.
