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Archive through March 28, 2019
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
The winter was tough on the 125 I haven’t run it since September or so the choke cable was seized up,two flat tires and a dead battery despite being on a float charger.well I got the battery swapped out and pulled the choke cable off to free it up and started it up runs like garbage but started right up,I drove around my house to my garage for spring cleaning and it died in the driveway, luckily not to far away from my garage.I got the little fella to fire back up after a minute or so of rest now it won’t run unless the carb is on full choke,I did notice flakes of paint and junk floating around in the sediment bowl so I think the carb maybe comprised by some junk.I’m going to pull the carb and clean it well in my ultrasonic cleaned and cleanup the breather as well it’s pretty well caked up with gunk I should have the tractor ready for yard dethatching by next week
mgwin
Well-known member
No cub time yet. It's been raining for two years now!
The rain has slowed some. Still working on the absolutely must do list, but it is getting shorter now.
Maybe if it stays semi-dry for a couple of weeks I can get back to some serious cub work. Keeping my fingers crossed.
It's still quite chilly too. My wood stove is still going. That don't help any.
The rain has slowed some. Still working on the absolutely must do list, but it is getting shorter now.
Maybe if it stays semi-dry for a couple of weeks I can get back to some serious cub work. Keeping my fingers crossed.
It's still quite chilly too. My wood stove is still going. That don't help any.
It finally got dry enough here To get some plowing and potato planting done. My 70 was being used for row making and quit so we pulled it to the shop and found the points not grounding to the block. New points and I am plowing again. The 124 worked flawlessly all day. Good to see spring and working cub cadet tractors again..
mgwin
Well-known member
Luther,
What? No pics?
What? No pics?
mpatterson
Well-known member
Jim,
I went to the machine shop and had them throw my drive shaft in the lathe - yep it’s bent or bowed. Wasn’t pretty! So ya e them making me another one. Supposed to have it in a week or so. Busy place so I can’t really complain about how long it will take. In meantime I’ll work on the dozens of other jobs I have to get done!
I went to the machine shop and had them throw my drive shaft in the lathe - yep it’s bent or bowed. Wasn’t pretty! So ya e them making me another one. Supposed to have it in a week or so. Busy place so I can’t really complain about how long it will take. In meantime I’ll work on the dozens of other jobs I have to get done!
I hope this is the right place to post this, but my 1250 wont charge the battery. I went through the testing procedure in the IH service manual for the K-series Kohlers. At the battery when it's running I get a reading from 0-18V and it jumps very rapidly flashing the numbers on the meter. Same when I test the B post on the regulator, I also tested AC voltage at the plug like the book stated and I had similar results there too the highest sustained voltage at half throttle was 3 but it only stayed there for half a second before jumping around more.
I might put the regulator from my 1650 on it just to see if that fixes the problem but right now I suspect the Stator. What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
I might put the regulator from my 1650 on it just to see if that fixes the problem but right now I suspect the Stator. What do you guys think?
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
Can ya tell where where the 782D has been! Measured today, still 23" on the flat, LOL
mfrade
Well-known member
And we've got 2 to 3" of mud in my yard... sometimes we get 20 to 30 minutes of sunshine too. 8-(
Aaron W.
The regulator would be my first try.
I had a QL once that got goofy because of a batch of poor connections.
The regulator would be my first try.
I had a QL once that got goofy because of a batch of poor connections.
Just in case you didn't know!
kide
Well-known member
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- Aug 27, 2006
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- Gerry Ide
Aaron - rust on the magnets isn't going to cause a problem, there is no "ground" for the magnets, not supposed to be one for the stator - the coils "float" above ground, just supposed to be supplying AC voltage to the Voltage Regulator.
Did you pull the center (charge) wire from the Voltage Regulator and measure AC (not DC) voltage across the two outer connections (the wires coming from the stator)? At 3000 RPM you should be reading 28 volts <u>AC</u> or better. I like using a regular old analog meter for this, it's easier to read than a digital one for some tasks..
If you don't have that 28 volt AC , you've probably got a bad stator. If you know how to read resistance on your meter, you can unhook both of the leads from the stator, connect one of the ohm meter probes to one of the stator leads and the other probe lead to the engine block. You should not get any reading if the stator is good, if it shows anything other than infinity, the stator coils are shorted to ground.
I don't have a Kohler manual on this laptop (for shame) so I can't tell you what the total coil resistance is when measuring the two stator leads, but you should have a fairly low reading in ohms; if that is reading infinity, the coils are open (again, bad)...
Edit - I see Charlie posted a really good link, I'll leave my old timer comments up just in case...
Did you pull the center (charge) wire from the Voltage Regulator and measure AC (not DC) voltage across the two outer connections (the wires coming from the stator)? At 3000 RPM you should be reading 28 volts <u>AC</u> or better. I like using a regular old analog meter for this, it's easier to read than a digital one for some tasks..
If you don't have that 28 volt AC , you've probably got a bad stator. If you know how to read resistance on your meter, you can unhook both of the leads from the stator, connect one of the ohm meter probes to one of the stator leads and the other probe lead to the engine block. You should not get any reading if the stator is good, if it shows anything other than infinity, the stator coils are shorted to ground.
I don't have a Kohler manual on this laptop (for shame) so I can't tell you what the total coil resistance is when measuring the two stator leads, but you should have a fairly low reading in ohms; if that is reading infinity, the coils are open (again, bad)...
Edit - I see Charlie posted a really good link, I'll leave my old timer comments up just in case...
Hi Aaron,
You pretty much did this but want to go over it again as there are a few other things to check.
Engine off start by unplugging the stator from the regulator. Set your volt meter for ohm's and insert the test leads into each end of the connector that goes to the stator. Check the value on the meter it should be between .1-.2 ohms for a good stator. Anything else and it is bad and will need to be replaced. Next set the meter to AC, put a test lead in each terminal connection in the plug, start the engine and run wide open; you should see no less than 28 volts AC. If less, then the stator is bad. If zero, its possible a magnet under the flywheel may have shifted or all may have come off and are sticking to the outside of the stator. If you have at least 28 volts, idle the engine and turn it off. Put the electrical connector back on the regulator. Turn the test meter to DC volts. Put the proper test lead to ground, the other test lead on the center prong on the regulator thru the backside of the connector. Start the engine and rev it wide open. You should see about 13.8 volts DC. If its less than 13.8 volts it is a bad regulator or a bad ground. If the regulator is putting out 13.8V DC or more the stator and regulator are good. Mind you these need to be constant voltages with about a volt of fluctuation. If there is a large fluctuation then something is wrong with a component or you have a bad ground or loose connection.
The voltage from the regulator goes thru the ignition switch. It is possible for the ignition switch to be bad as the contacts can get corroded, pitted, and rusted over time. This happened on my 1650. Once I changed it, it charged great.
While the engine is running wide open try and watch the amp meter on the dash; try and wiggle the key in the ignition switch. You might see it jump to charge and then show no charge. This seems to be a good quick indication of a bad ignition switch, but probably does not always work as the contact points could be badly pitted or rusted inside the swtich. Next you could look at a wiring diagram and check the DC voltage from the regulator to the ignition switch terminal, and then again after to the amp meter terminal to ground. If no voltage from the ignition switch to the amp meter then the ignition switch is bad. Then again from the other terminal of the amp meter to ground. If no voltage then the amp meter is bad and needs to be replaced. Finally check the connection to the starter solenoid from the amp meter.
Also, it would be best to review the Kohler manual for a quick review before proceeding.
Hopefully I covered everything and it helps solve your charging issue.
You pretty much did this but want to go over it again as there are a few other things to check.
Engine off start by unplugging the stator from the regulator. Set your volt meter for ohm's and insert the test leads into each end of the connector that goes to the stator. Check the value on the meter it should be between .1-.2 ohms for a good stator. Anything else and it is bad and will need to be replaced. Next set the meter to AC, put a test lead in each terminal connection in the plug, start the engine and run wide open; you should see no less than 28 volts AC. If less, then the stator is bad. If zero, its possible a magnet under the flywheel may have shifted or all may have come off and are sticking to the outside of the stator. If you have at least 28 volts, idle the engine and turn it off. Put the electrical connector back on the regulator. Turn the test meter to DC volts. Put the proper test lead to ground, the other test lead on the center prong on the regulator thru the backside of the connector. Start the engine and rev it wide open. You should see about 13.8 volts DC. If its less than 13.8 volts it is a bad regulator or a bad ground. If the regulator is putting out 13.8V DC or more the stator and regulator are good. Mind you these need to be constant voltages with about a volt of fluctuation. If there is a large fluctuation then something is wrong with a component or you have a bad ground or loose connection.
The voltage from the regulator goes thru the ignition switch. It is possible for the ignition switch to be bad as the contacts can get corroded, pitted, and rusted over time. This happened on my 1650. Once I changed it, it charged great.
While the engine is running wide open try and watch the amp meter on the dash; try and wiggle the key in the ignition switch. You might see it jump to charge and then show no charge. This seems to be a good quick indication of a bad ignition switch, but probably does not always work as the contact points could be badly pitted or rusted inside the swtich. Next you could look at a wiring diagram and check the DC voltage from the regulator to the ignition switch terminal, and then again after to the amp meter terminal to ground. If no voltage from the ignition switch to the amp meter then the ignition switch is bad. Then again from the other terminal of the amp meter to ground. If no voltage then the amp meter is bad and needs to be replaced. Finally check the connection to the starter solenoid from the amp meter.
Also, it would be best to review the Kohler manual for a quick review before proceeding.
Hopefully I covered everything and it helps solve your charging issue.
Hi Mike,
I'm sure the spline coupling on the input shaft of the transmission is loose as well. The coupling should not wiggle on the spline shaft. If it does; it should be replaced as well. The new one should have a nice snug fit and might need to be tapped on with the palm of your hand and should not be hammered on. Make sure the splines are clean and burr free on both parts before installing the coupling on the shaft.
I'm sure the spline coupling on the input shaft of the transmission is loose as well. The coupling should not wiggle on the spline shaft. If it does; it should be replaced as well. The new one should have a nice snug fit and might need to be tapped on with the palm of your hand and should not be hammered on. Make sure the splines are clean and burr free on both parts before installing the coupling on the shaft.
Gerry I.
Thanks man!
Thanks man!
I pulled the engine tonight here is a picture of what the engine is sitting on so you guys have an idea of what I'm working with. How am I supposed to get the flywheel off without shattering the bearing plate, most engines you can pry on the block but these kohler's have the aluminum bearing plate in the way, if I put much force on that it will break. And without bolting it to something solid the engine moves when I pry on the flywheel to hit it with a hammer. Any ideas?
Thanks, Aaron
Thanks, Aaron
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