Archive through July 17, 2009

[sstanton]

I finally got the K back together and back in the 104! Here is a pic.

Oh and I had this follow me home today! A decent 1650 that runs. I picked it up from one of the maintenance guys at work for free! Told me he just wanted to get rid of it. Has no deck or any attachments, but I figured for the price I wasnt complaining at all!

I have always wanted to get a hydro, I guess this will do the trick! I'm thinking it will be a good addition to the "family"! I had to store it up to my grandads for the time being. Once I get the 104 finished I should have room for it down here. I havent told my wife yet and I'm not quite sure how to bring it up in a casual kind of way! I think I might become deaf at some point this evening! I have the side panels too, and I always thought they were plastic till today

 

[dfrisk]

SCOTT - I've never owned a CC with the elec. lift but I've been around CC's since long before the elec. lifts were available. There was a slip clutch built into the lift so when they reached the end of their travel the motor could still run for a short time. Those clutches tended to either slip or lock up 100%, the screw that turned to extend & retract would sieze in the nut, and the reversable DC motor was alergic to water.

I went to a household auction back in the early 1980's, sometime between 1980 and 1985. There were two CC's, seems like a 123 maybe, or could have been a 104 or 124, and the thing I remember for sure was the 147 with the elec. lift. Included with the 147 was the box containing two broken elec. lift actuators.

Some people have had really good luck with the elec. lift so all the standard disclaimers apply. For more "Normal uses" I haven't really ever had a problem with the manual lift on the 70 or 72 and neither one has the helper spring. The QA-36 snowblower takes both hands to raise now but I used to be able to raise/lower it with one.... I hate this getting old bit! Also the moldboard plow raises kinda hard at times too but as long as I'm moving it's do-able.

 

[snicklas]

Thanks Dennis. I wasn't sure, I just know that I have seen alot of 147's that have a manual lift handle, or I saw one just recently that had the belt driven hydro pump and cylinder. Was just wondering, there is a 1250 close to Dad with the electric lift, the other thought was to just swap out pumps and make it a hydro lift, which looks to be fairly simple.....

 

[mgonitzke]

More 100 progress...After last night's white paint disaster, I've got the white stuff painted. The hood looks the best. There's bugs and crap in the wheels, which I might try to sand out. The motor is a short block at the moment...I gotta clean the head when it stops raining. I made a list of things I have to do yet, and it's a lot.

 

[fsnerd]

my 128 with the stalling problem.

it is not fixed yet, sorry for the confusion.
going back over the posts i cant figure out where someone got the idea it was an exhaust leak and i had fixed it.
a possible exhaust leak was spotted in one of the videos, and i have to check for it.

i have collected a long list from you guys on what to check for, have not been able to get to the tractor at all this week. hopefully i can get out there now. but, thunder storms are in the area.

 

[rpalmer]

Has anyone removed a broken brass key from the ignition switch? How should I attack this?

 

[dtanner]

Richard
(Has anyone removed a broken brass key from the ignition switch? How should I attack this?)
If you have an Oring pick its easy. I dug a broken key out in 2 min on my 149.BTDT. LOL just got home from the city( 2 women shopping for 9 hrs) I told them that will have to do for the summer lol . Later Don T

 

[fsnerd]

my 128 with the stalling problem.

the timing - before i recheck the timing i want to make sure i am doing this right.can someone watch this video and tell if i have the correct timing mark in the correct window?
also, i used the feeler gage method, is the timing light method better? if so, will any automotive timing light work, or must it be one for a single cylinder?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0ztRlKRj2E

exhaust leak - in this video you clearly see the soot marks from an exhaust leak, thanks to those who picked that up, i missed it entirely.
my question is, what is the best fix? should i try a repair of some sort? or just replace muffler and all pipes?
due to not knowing how old that exhaust is, i am leaning towards replacing everything, but, maybe someone knows of an easy fix.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UriS-6rMozw

thanks again.

 

[rpalmer]

Donald Tanner,
just got home from the city( 2 women shopping for 9 hrs) I told them that will have to do for the summer lol .

I really lol. Good luck with that. Thanks Don. I'll get the picks out.

 

[sstanton]

Is anyone else having problem with the parts look up? I wanted to see what I was getting into with the 1650 and it just shows "App could not found" instead of the look up page.

 

[digger]

You can use this Parts lookup for now, while the old one is being updated.
CLICK HERE for Parts lookup

 

[sstanton]

Thanks Charlie!

 

[rnajecki]

A front wheel bearing on my 149 need replacing. The local dealer wants $$ and I'm wondering if there is a bearing manufacturers part number I could have looked up at my local NAPA store while I do my Saturday shopping. I'm figuring the bearing from a non-CC source would be less expensive. The OEM number is IH-384-881-R93 (or R94).

While doing a Google search it seems the OEM bearings have an open back for grease penetration, but there are also sealed bearings available. The open back doesn't seem to be advantageous because the wheel doesn't have zerk grease fittings. Though I guess I could drill and tap holes for such fittings.

So if you have advice on whether an open back OEM style bearing is preferable to a sealed bearing I would like to read it.

Thanks,
Roy

 

[ichoplin]

I've had plenty of Cub time since I got home from work yesterday.
Anyway, I posted some clutch q's concerning one of my 100's. My t/o bearing replacement went off w/out a hitch thanks the BruceN and MattG's tips(and the archives too). Just wanted to let you guys know that the help is much appreciated. Thanks,Ian

 

[mkopishke]

Question for guys with Kubota powered cubs, where does the needle on your charge indicator run during normal running/working conditions?

Running at 3/4 throttle the needle just breaks the plain from the neutral line on the charge side, with the PTO on the needle goes back to neutral/VERY slightly to the charge side. If I back the throttle down bit, PTO on or off, the needle stays neutral.

Is this normal?

Thanks,

 

[mgonitzke]

Matthew K.-

I think that's about normal. That's what my 782D does. My 1512 did a little better for some reason, but not much.

 

[bnolte]

Getting closer with the 102 project. I replaced both the throttle and the choke cable with brand new wires and housings, and prelubed them for smooth action. The throttle cable was pretty straightforward, though I did steal a couple of bits off the old 102, which seemed to have a better anchor. The choke cable was a little harder, I wasn't able to find a lookalike cable during my quick trip to TSC, so I used a universal throttle cable for the housing and wire, and reused the pull knob. I carefully cut the aluminum rod the knob attaches to at the end of the crimp, then drilled the remaining rod with a 1/16" hole down the center, inserted the wire and crimped it with a couple of hits from a cold chisel. After a little deburring, it worked like a charm.

I'm sort of getting bogged down with a bunch of little things, like picking through bins of hardware for just the right fastener and not finding it, dealing with the fact that I should have installed the PTO lever before bolting the front end on the tractor, etc. I'm getting there, it's just taking a little longer than I hoped. Next time, I'll organize my hardware a little better.

 

[cturpin]

(Has anyone removed a broken brass key from the ignition switch? How should I attack this? )
Richard, I had the same problem and was given a great tip, take an old pair of needle nose pliers and grind the tips down thin enough to fit in the ignition and grab it and pull it right out. It worked for me.

 

[agitch]

Matthew, i think the needle won't show much of a charge unless the battery is requiring it.

 

[lhinds]

Scott and John. I have a 108 with factory elect. lift. It works much smoother and better than the 147 does. When it gets to top or bottom of stroke it don't bottom out like the 147 does.

The lift lays horz. instead vertical like the one on a 147. Just my 02c