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Archive through July 07, 2006
- Thread starter nbartee
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Jeffrey, here is a link to an online parts lookup:
Carter & Gruenewald Co.
Click on the grey "Shop Online" button. Then in the "Model Name/Number" box, enter in the model number of the Cub Cadet you want to search for parts for then click the "Search" button.
Carter & Gruenewald Co.
Click on the grey "Shop Online" button. Then in the "Model Name/Number" box, enter in the model number of the Cub Cadet you want to search for parts for then click the "Search" button.
tbordeleau
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 89
- displayname
- ted Bordeleau
44C deck spindle woes:
I tried to swap a drive pulley (center spindle, pulley that runs up to the PTO) from a "bad" spindle to a "good" one ("good" spindle has a pulley slightly smaller than the one I was using on the "bad" spindle), and could NOT figure out how those suckers (the pulleys) come off the spindles!!
After buying a 1 1/4" impact socket, I realized that the big nut bearing against the pulley MIGHT be attached to the pulley. An assembly diagram on one of the parts sponsors websites kind of re-inforces this suspicion.
So how do the pulleys come off the spindles?
I tried to swap a drive pulley (center spindle, pulley that runs up to the PTO) from a "bad" spindle to a "good" one ("good" spindle has a pulley slightly smaller than the one I was using on the "bad" spindle), and could NOT figure out how those suckers (the pulleys) come off the spindles!!
After buying a 1 1/4" impact socket, I realized that the big nut bearing against the pulley MIGHT be attached to the pulley. An assembly diagram on one of the parts sponsors websites kind of re-inforces this suspicion.
So how do the pulleys come off the spindles?
Ted: Have you tried your 1 1/4 socket on top and most likely 1 1/8 on the blade side loosen the blade nut to the ends of the thread then give it a quick rap on the nut. Should be able to drive the bolt (per se) on out with everything attached to the top. Been many years but I think thats what I did. Pops has slept many a nights since then.
Pops
Pops
tbordeleau
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2005
- Messages
- 89
- displayname
- ted Bordeleau
Pops:
Are you saying that the pulley is somehow permanently affixed to the spindle shaft? If I read your suggestion correctly, your rap on the nut is intended to drive the shaft (pulley and all) out of the bearing assembly.
This doesn't sound like what the diagram I saw LOOKS like, and I am still unclear on how it solves my problem; I need to swap a different pulley on to my center spindle.
Are you saying that the pulley is somehow permanently affixed to the spindle shaft? If I read your suggestion correctly, your rap on the nut is intended to drive the shaft (pulley and all) out of the bearing assembly.
This doesn't sound like what the diagram I saw LOOKS like, and I am still unclear on how it solves my problem; I need to swap a different pulley on to my center spindle.
Ted: Remember I haven't worked on those old tractors for more than 25 yrs. ago. It seemed like you drove it out from the bottom, then rebuilt the pieces as a unit away from the deck. Someplace I have worked on a 44C deck I remember that number well>
I am sorry if I have confused you this old brain has a lot of cells that where killed!!
Pops
(Message edited by bcorn on July 13, 2006)
I am sorry if I have confused you this old brain has a lot of cells that where killed!!
Pops
(Message edited by bcorn on July 13, 2006)
mgonitzke
Well-known member
The pulley should come off; it's held in by one of those half-moon keys. I have a 44A on which the center pulley flops around but won't come off, even with the nut removed. I can see the key when I wiggle the pulley, so there is probably a burr on one of the parts that prevents it from being disassembled. Other than that I'm not sure what to say, mine won't quite come off either.....
Ted, Had same problem with 44 inch deck after much prying and hammering got it off, the brg upper shaft where key way goes was broken the key was still in perfect condition but metal around key had sheared away probably a result of center blade hitting something was hard to come off cause nothing lined up and broken piece was still between shaft and pulley key way. Jim
Ted,
I'm assuming your 44C has the early style integral bearing with double threaded shaft (ST 745?). The pulley is retained by a self locking nut and a half moon key keeps the pulley from spinning on the shaft. To remove the spindle bearing from the pulley, first remove the 3/4" D self locking nut that retains the pulley (you may have to block the blade to hold the shaft to loosen it or put a big wrench (1 1/4"?) on hex pulley hub), next remove the blade nut, blade, washers and blade cup/shield. Remove the three 3/8" D bolts through the bearing cap flanges and deck (Note: you will need to spray them with penetrating oil). Take the entire assembly out and remove the lower stamped steel cap half. The bearing is now visiable and upper stamped cap half is trapped between the bearing and pulley but it will be loose. Put the assembly back in the deck hole. Take the blade nut and install it on top side 4-5 turns but still above the grease zerk and make sure there is a gap between the pulley hub and nut. The pulley will be resting flush on the upper cap flange. Take a solid block of wood and hammer and begin driving the shaft out of the pulley hub. The bearing may bottom out on the floor so you will have to block up the deck a little. When the nut bottoms out on the pulley, unscrew it 2-3 turns and continue tapping it until it bottoms out again, then remove the nut, get a small socket to place over the grease zerk and lightly tap the bearing shaft out the remaining way if necessary. Hope this helps.
I'm assuming your 44C has the early style integral bearing with double threaded shaft (ST 745?). The pulley is retained by a self locking nut and a half moon key keeps the pulley from spinning on the shaft. To remove the spindle bearing from the pulley, first remove the 3/4" D self locking nut that retains the pulley (you may have to block the blade to hold the shaft to loosen it or put a big wrench (1 1/4"?) on hex pulley hub), next remove the blade nut, blade, washers and blade cup/shield. Remove the three 3/8" D bolts through the bearing cap flanges and deck (Note: you will need to spray them with penetrating oil). Take the entire assembly out and remove the lower stamped steel cap half. The bearing is now visiable and upper stamped cap half is trapped between the bearing and pulley but it will be loose. Put the assembly back in the deck hole. Take the blade nut and install it on top side 4-5 turns but still above the grease zerk and make sure there is a gap between the pulley hub and nut. The pulley will be resting flush on the upper cap flange. Take a solid block of wood and hammer and begin driving the shaft out of the pulley hub. The bearing may bottom out on the floor so you will have to block up the deck a little. When the nut bottoms out on the pulley, unscrew it 2-3 turns and continue tapping it until it bottoms out again, then remove the nut, get a small socket to place over the grease zerk and lightly tap the bearing shaft out the remaining way if necessary. Hope this helps.
jmetzinger
Member
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2005
- Messages
- 10
- displayname
- Jeff Metzinger
I am in need of some Kohler help. I have 2 Cub Cadet's, 149's, Kohler K321A 14 hp. engines, both have #30, 1" carbs that need to be re-built badly, including throttle shafts kits/carb re-build kits.
I removed the first carb (body #A237490) for service. I then contacted my local Kohler parts store, who in turn contacted a Kohler customer support person. Kohler sent out a list of four throttle shaft re-build kits available, including dimensions. They instructed me to measure up my throttle shaft, determining which kit I need. Sounded simple.... Here is what Kohler sent me for available kit measurements:
#25 757 14 A-.104 B- .619 C-1.227 D-2.164
#25 757 15 A-.104 B-1.416 C-1.288 D-3.00
#25 757 16 A-.104 B-1.447 C-1.227 D-3.00
#25 757 17 A-.122 B-1.073 C-1.227 D-2.88
Mine measure A-.112 B-1.460 C-1.215 D-3.07
None of the above measurements matched. Parts supplier then calls a Kohler tech person for help. Tech guy says most parts for old 70's C.C.'s with Kohlers are being discontinued, and no throttle shaft/re-build kits are available that he knows of for my carbs. Only suggestion Kohler tech guy had was buying a brand new carb from Kohler, which should retro-fit on the K321. Price, $125.
Is this info true? Am I going to have to buy two of the $125 carbs, or am I missing something on re-building these #30 carbs?? Anyone...Thanks, Jeff
I removed the first carb (body #A237490) for service. I then contacted my local Kohler parts store, who in turn contacted a Kohler customer support person. Kohler sent out a list of four throttle shaft re-build kits available, including dimensions. They instructed me to measure up my throttle shaft, determining which kit I need. Sounded simple.... Here is what Kohler sent me for available kit measurements:
#25 757 14 A-.104 B- .619 C-1.227 D-2.164
#25 757 15 A-.104 B-1.416 C-1.288 D-3.00
#25 757 16 A-.104 B-1.447 C-1.227 D-3.00
#25 757 17 A-.122 B-1.073 C-1.227 D-2.88
Mine measure A-.112 B-1.460 C-1.215 D-3.07
None of the above measurements matched. Parts supplier then calls a Kohler tech person for help. Tech guy says most parts for old 70's C.C.'s with Kohlers are being discontinued, and no throttle shaft/re-build kits are available that he knows of for my carbs. Only suggestion Kohler tech guy had was buying a brand new carb from Kohler, which should retro-fit on the K321. Price, $125.
Is this info true? Am I going to have to buy two of the $125 carbs, or am I missing something on re-building these #30 carbs?? Anyone...Thanks, Jeff
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeff M.-
You don't need one of those throttle shaft rebuild kits if you happen to have access to a lathe or someone who knows how to use one. Remove the throttle shaft. This is done by removing the 2 screws that hold the butterfly valve on. If they start to come out hard, screw them back in and file the ends off. They ding up the ends of these screws at the factory so they can't vibrate out and be sucked into the engine. Anyway, they're made of brass and are very soft, so be careful not to twist them off. When those are removed, the butterfly valve falls out and you can remove the throttle shaft. When you do this you will see that the hole in the carburetor casting has a counterbore in the top. You can make a bushing to fit in this counterbore that will contact the unworn portion of the throttle shaft and tighten up the slop. You can make the bushings out of bronze or oilite, the latter of which I used. I found some bushings that were 1/2" OD x 1/4" ID by 3/4" long and turned them down to the required size of 7/16" OD by 1/4" ID by .132" or so long. 7/16" is a little big for the outside so measure the counterbore in your carb and machine the bushing to aim for a .002" oversize bushing that will press nicely into the counterbore of the carb. You can then re-use the old throttle shaft and butterfly valve, replace the screws with the appropriate-sized replacements with lockwashers and loctite (NOT the heavy-duty stuff) and then re-assemble and install a carb kit, which, even if Kohler discontinues it should be available as a Case-New Holland part. Your carbs should then provide many more years of service. I did this to my 1450 to fix it's badly worn #30 carb and it works great now.
I can expand upon any of this and clarify anything you don't understand. Hope this helps.
You don't need one of those throttle shaft rebuild kits if you happen to have access to a lathe or someone who knows how to use one. Remove the throttle shaft. This is done by removing the 2 screws that hold the butterfly valve on. If they start to come out hard, screw them back in and file the ends off. They ding up the ends of these screws at the factory so they can't vibrate out and be sucked into the engine. Anyway, they're made of brass and are very soft, so be careful not to twist them off. When those are removed, the butterfly valve falls out and you can remove the throttle shaft. When you do this you will see that the hole in the carburetor casting has a counterbore in the top. You can make a bushing to fit in this counterbore that will contact the unworn portion of the throttle shaft and tighten up the slop. You can make the bushings out of bronze or oilite, the latter of which I used. I found some bushings that were 1/2" OD x 1/4" ID by 3/4" long and turned them down to the required size of 7/16" OD by 1/4" ID by .132" or so long. 7/16" is a little big for the outside so measure the counterbore in your carb and machine the bushing to aim for a .002" oversize bushing that will press nicely into the counterbore of the carb. You can then re-use the old throttle shaft and butterfly valve, replace the screws with the appropriate-sized replacements with lockwashers and loctite (NOT the heavy-duty stuff) and then re-assemble and install a carb kit, which, even if Kohler discontinues it should be available as a Case-New Holland part. Your carbs should then provide many more years of service. I did this to my 1450 to fix it's badly worn #30 carb and it works great now.
I can expand upon any of this and clarify anything you don't understand. Hope this helps.
dclinansmith
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2004
- Messages
- 124
- displayname
- David Clinansmith
Jeff, I had the same carb problem you have and I made some bushings using the same basic procedure Matt G. outlined. I did use a small amount of locktite for installation just to be sure it didn't work loose. My local Kohler dealer doesn't want to be bothered with special orders if it can be avoided so I get a lot of stuff from my auto parts dealer. Carquest has a carb kit P/N 7-02024 that I use in all of my cubs. If you don't have a Carquest nearby the number comes from a Prime Line catalog, many other auto parts stores carry this line of parts in stock. My dealer almost always gets this stuff overnight without any extra shipping charge.
Jeff,
Call Scott Madson of Madson's Service, inc. He's one of the sponsors at the top of this page. He'll know what you need, his prices are very fair, and you'll have it via UPS within two days.
Call Scott Madson of Madson's Service, inc. He's one of the sponsors at the top of this page. He'll know what you need, his prices are very fair, and you'll have it via UPS within two days.
David, shame, shame , shame on your local dealer.
i'm a Kohler dealer and theres a few in my area the same way. i pride myself in helping someone out, i done what i listed above for a guy that drove 90 miles one way, because no Kohler dealer in the area didnt want the hassle of something that old. i keep all those parts in stock. i was always told "you cant run a business on an empty wagon". i know local demand is different from area to area, but theres all brands of dealers here that dont even stock enternall engine parts. i dont understand it, maybe im the stupid one... T
Caution, WAY OFF TOPIC POST TO FOLLOW!
Navy Seals are always taught:
1) Keep your priorities in order, and
2) Know when to act without hesitation.
A Navy SEAL was attending some college courses between assignments. He had
completed missions in Iraq and Afghanistan. One of the courses had a professor
who was an avowed atheist and a member of the ACLU.
One day he shocked the class when he came in, looked to the ceiling,
and flatly stated, "God, if you are real, then I want you to knock me
off this platform. I'll give you exactly 15 minutes." The lecture room fell
silent.
You could hear a pin drop. Ten minutes went by and the professor
proclaimed, "Here I am God. I'm still waiting."
It got down to the last couple of minutes when the SEAL got out of
his chair, went up to the professor, and cold-cocked him; knocking him
off the platform. The professor was out cold. The SEAL went back to his
seat and sat there, silently. The other students were shocked and stunned and
sat there looking on in silence.
The professor eventually came to, noticeably shaken, looked at the
SEAL and asked, "What the hell is the matter with you? Why did you do
that?"
The SEAL calmly replied, "God was too busy today protecting American
soldiers who are protecting your right to say stupid crap and act like an ahole.
So He sent me.
Navy Seals are always taught:
1) Keep your priorities in order, and
2) Know when to act without hesitation.
A Navy SEAL was attending some college courses between assignments. He had
completed missions in Iraq and Afghanistan. One of the courses had a professor
who was an avowed atheist and a member of the ACLU.
One day he shocked the class when he came in, looked to the ceiling,
and flatly stated, "God, if you are real, then I want you to knock me
off this platform. I'll give you exactly 15 minutes." The lecture room fell
silent.
You could hear a pin drop. Ten minutes went by and the professor
proclaimed, "Here I am God. I'm still waiting."
It got down to the last couple of minutes when the SEAL got out of
his chair, went up to the professor, and cold-cocked him; knocking him
off the platform. The professor was out cold. The SEAL went back to his
seat and sat there, silently. The other students were shocked and stunned and
sat there looking on in silence.
The professor eventually came to, noticeably shaken, looked at the
SEAL and asked, "What the hell is the matter with you? Why did you do
that?"
The SEAL calmly replied, "God was too busy today protecting American
soldiers who are protecting your right to say stupid crap and act like an ahole.
So He sent me.
Charlie,
