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Archive through July 05, 2010

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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More gages
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Last year a 6inch snow was the biggest we got and that is a good snow down here so I dont think I need a whole lot of weight.

I found the site I was talking about you would never guess the name tirechains.com
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The 1450 I recently bought came with a 44A mower deck that had rust holes and a split wooden front roller. Today I came upon a 44C deck that is in much better shape, but is missing the belt cover. From the Parts Lookup it seems the 44A cover can be used on the 44C. So that looks good.

But what I don't know is if the mule drive for use with the 1450 and 44A deck will fit the 44C deck? On Thursday I can bring the mule drive to the 44C deck owner (who is an hour away) and check the fit, but I'm hoping someone already knows the answer.
 
This is what Charlie thinks abut another discusion on gages
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at the forum we have had a great oil debate g.o.d and now we have had a great gage debate g.g.d.
 
Ok guys. I got my head gasket put on and torqued down. I then hooked the battery up to the car so I could try jump starting it to at least see if I could get it running. When I turn the key I get nothing. It doesn't even click like the battery is dead. Any ideas?
 
I never thought out the low output from S/G not being able to keep up with the cooling fan.
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thanks for the welcome Guys!
 
hello gentlemen, I have a question my father is getting up there in age I was wondering if a cub cadet hydro steering unit would work in a simplicity hydro tractor. I am tring to make it easier for him.

thank you
mark
 
Andrew: sounds like you have a wire shorted to earth, bad key switch, or bad solenoid. what model tractor is it? there may be a bad saftey switch somewhere on the clutch/brake pedal, pto, or seat.
 
DAVE - remember years ago when water injection was the answer to curing pinging & detonation? Just another windshield washer pump with the outlet aimed down the carb throat?

I supposed you could add a "Supplimental Cooling System" to a Kohler, spray water on the blower side of the block fins and and cool things down. I have seen STEAM blow out the front of my CC 70 when pushing snow with my belly blade a time or two. There's no cover plate on the bottom of the frame and powdery snow gets sucked up thru the grass screen sometimes. Well, anyhow I thought it was pretty funny that an air-cooled engine would over-heat and blow steam....
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ANYHOW, next winter I'll have a FRONT blade to push snow with. The belly blade works great until the snow is an inch or more deep, works great on ice too. But I hate to get a FARMALL out to clear just 2-3 inches of snow. A CC & frt blade will be the tool of choice for the 2 to 4" deep snow. The big tractor will still do the deeper stuff.
 
Denny, I do remember that. I've seen steam out of my 72 on windy days with dry snow it gets everywhere. If a person was to hook up an oil pump he could point a nozzle right at the rod lined up under the piston and anouther at the cam.
 
If you use Windshield Washer fluid for wheel weight, make sure it is rated for winter use...-15*to -20*. Some washer fluid sold is just rated for above freezing-- summertime! It maybe on Super Sale in fall to clear the shelves.
 
Dennis:
'62 Cutlass Jetfire used it to take care of pre-ignition when on the boost.. (the secret injection fluid Olds sold ya was alcohol and water..)

Mark H:
Anything is possible with enough fire and big enough hammers, but the Simplicity folks might have a better idea....
 
I made a bit more progress on the 682 today. I put the fenders back on and set the engine in it so I could drain the oil out of it and take the pan off.

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I moved the wiring harness over to the other side with the hopes that the starter cable would reach. It's going to be very close.

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I had to re-route the wiring a bit, and I added some chunks of rubber hose here and there to protect it from sharp edges and stuff.

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I then removed the oil pan to check on the balance gears, and what I found was a relief:

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The oil pan in really bad. When I pulled this out of the 1250, only the rear two bolts were there. After drilling some of the peened-over metal out of the holes and running a tap through them, the threads are ok, but there's a lot of metal missing. I know someone with a TIG welder, so I'll have him build it back up, and then I'll mill it back down on a milling machine and hope the heat from welding doesn't warp it.

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Matt Gonitzke

Well there is lots of room there for more engine than a 12K. I`ed like to see a teledine in there , that would be kool.lol I must see if Frank C has room to store and engine for me,I`am think I should put one in a Cub and a CV drive shaft and a std trans. I got more ideas than I got time lol.

Mat thats going to make a great tractor.I see you are going all red these days.What is next?
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Don-

I would have preferred a K241 or K301, as a loader doesn't take much power. I wound up with a K321 instead. Oh well... Actually, it'll look a lot bigger with all of the tinwork on it and the gas tank back in the tractor.

I'm hanging onto 82 series and an Original.
 
I see on a few of the sponsor sites the carb kit for 10hp-14hp offer 25-757-02.....when you go to the Cub Cadet Parts site all you find is 25-757-01...Confused a bit....not hard to do at all...Anyone?????
 
is a 147 steering box the same as a 102, i havent seen that many so i was wondering if they all used the same or not?
 
Charlie...thanks....however, if you read my post, I believe you will find your site shows the 14hp carb kit as 25-757-02....and the Cub site shows 25-757-01...now what part of my post requires me to read the FAQ's, I'm not sure....but my question is the same....why do you show the 25-757-02 and you can't seem to find that represented on the Cub site.

Have a nice day !!!!
 
Rick Albert

10 k and 12 k are number 26 carb and take the same kit. A 14 K is a 30 carb and takes a different kit. I think that is your answer.Hope this helps !
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