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Archive through July 05, 2010
- Thread starter bproctor
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
When I get around to this project I will proably go with the 16 horse. Right now I need to work on my 122 and o I need get my going for winter becaus it is my snow plow tractor I dont need my 122 till nexed summer. My o has littel traction in snow becaus of the littel skiny tires If I took the ones of my 122 26x10.5x12 would they work ok ?
Bob G Proctor
Hytran is used for that purpose, to encapsulate the moisture produced with changes in temp. I have had a few tractors arrive here with auto trans fluid. That auto trans fluid does not hurt the pump but does not help with damage that can happen with moisture.
Hytran is used for that purpose, to encapsulate the moisture produced with changes in temp. I have had a few tractors arrive here with auto trans fluid. That auto trans fluid does not hurt the pump but does not help with damage that can happen with moisture.
BOB P. - Yes, Hy-Tran is hydroscopic, means it absorbs water, mixes with it opposed to most hyd. oils do not mix. Using Hy-Tran means when you change your oil the water & contaminates are drained with the old oil more completely.
When Hy-Tran isn't changed often enough is when it forms those clumps of "goo". That's a technical term by the way. ;-)
There's enough water in those clumps that it will actually freeze and stop flowing. But it takes a l-o-n-g time for enough condensation inside the rearends & other places for that to happen. Dad had the loader stop working on his M several years ago due to Hy-Tran freezing. A change of fluid and it works fine again.
When Hy-Tran isn't changed often enough is when it forms those clumps of "goo". That's a technical term by the way. ;-)
There's enough water in those clumps that it will actually freeze and stop flowing. But it takes a l-o-n-g time for enough condensation inside the rearends & other places for that to happen. Dad had the loader stop working on his M several years ago due to Hy-Tran freezing. A change of fluid and it works fine again.
My o has the skiny turf tires and I had chains on it last year but still ran out of traction in some places and all I plow is gravel. Would 1 set wheel weights cure this?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Tire size doesn't make as much difference as the amount of weight does. I use 2 sets of IH weights, one set of Bolens 50# weights, and I have fluid in the tires, amounting to about 275-300#. Sometimes more than that would be nice.
jharvey
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 1, 2003
- Messages
- 361
- displayname
- Jerry Harvey "Nines are wild"
Dennis, Charlie
Maybe the reason there is no drain plug in hydro rearends is so when the cover is off to change fluid the goop/water is easier to remove.
JH
HYGROSCOPIC..HYGROSCOPIC..HYGROSCOPIC!
Maybe the reason there is no drain plug in hydro rearends is so when the cover is off to change fluid the goop/water is easier to remove.
JH
HYGROSCOPIC..HYGROSCOPIC..HYGROSCOPIC!
What kind of fluid do you recomend using ? somwhere somewon posted a linke of a tire chain place that had v-bar tire chains I cant find it I think don t posted it could some one post it again?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Rim-Guard, RV antifreeze, and washer fluid are commonly used.
Which one works best for not rusting my rims (tubeless tires) ?
LUCAS - Matt is correct. Especially on gravel, a little weight does more good with chains than wider tires. But more weight does much better. The larger dia. tires would help but the added width hurts more than the larger diameter helps.
As Don & Matt have said, keep your 6-12 turfs, keep the chains, and add 300# to the back any way you can.
MAN, it's 80 to 100 degrees depending on where your at, humid, really NOT nice to be outside so WHY are we talking about plowing/pushing snow?
Guess I can't complain too much, My Buddy should be calling me back any minute to tell me whether I bought a snow blade at the auction he's at. ;-)
As Don & Matt have said, keep your 6-12 turfs, keep the chains, and add 300# to the back any way you can.
MAN, it's 80 to 100 degrees depending on where your at, humid, really NOT nice to be outside so WHY are we talking about plowing/pushing snow?
Guess I can't complain too much, My Buddy should be calling me back any minute to tell me whether I bought a snow blade at the auction he's at. ;-)
It is my restored tractor so I want it stock so ill fill it with washer fluid then maybe find 2 sets of weights.
Lucas,
I made a weight bracket for the back of my 125 that I put five steel plates.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/JRD77VET/house/cub%20cadet/DCP_4543.jpg
That and chains work well for me.
Jeff
I made a weight bracket for the back of my 125 that I put five steel plates.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/JRD77VET/house/cub%20cadet/DCP_4543.jpg
That and chains work well for me.
Jeff
LUCAS - If your using IH CC weights better plan on three or four sets minimum, that's only a bit over 156 or 208 pounds total. And they're $100/a pair or higher.
A 6-12 tire only takes 40-45 pounds of fluid (3 to 3-1/2 gal per tire), and washer fluid is lighter than the ClCa that weight is based on. A 23-8.50x12 takes 60 to 70#(4-1/2 to 5.3 gal/tire). And a 23-10.50x12 is 75 to 85#(5-1/2 to 6-1/2 gal/tire). All those weights are per tire.
When filling tires with fluid inner tubes are strongly recommended. And tires should actually only be filled to valve stem height with the stem positioned at the top of the tire rim. Those are the lower weight numbers I gave. The higher numbers are a 90% filled weight which you should be able to get using Wyatt's "Tire Bong". Problem with the higher percentage of fill is the bruise resistance of the tire is greatly reduced which could lead to early tire failure when operating in rough terrain.
I only have one set of rear tires filled with CaCl fluid of ALL my tractors, 3 CC's & 2 Farmall's. I'm glad I have the extra 1000 pounds of weight pushing snow in winter and when lifting heavy stuff with the loader but the rims are in fairly bad shape compared to the 3 yr older rims on the M that have never had fluid in them.
Using washer fluid adds less weight but should prevent the rust issues. But it still makes fixing flat tires a PITA. Just ask DON.
A 6-12 tire only takes 40-45 pounds of fluid (3 to 3-1/2 gal per tire), and washer fluid is lighter than the ClCa that weight is based on. A 23-8.50x12 takes 60 to 70#(4-1/2 to 5.3 gal/tire). And a 23-10.50x12 is 75 to 85#(5-1/2 to 6-1/2 gal/tire). All those weights are per tire.
When filling tires with fluid inner tubes are strongly recommended. And tires should actually only be filled to valve stem height with the stem positioned at the top of the tire rim. Those are the lower weight numbers I gave. The higher numbers are a 90% filled weight which you should be able to get using Wyatt's "Tire Bong". Problem with the higher percentage of fill is the bruise resistance of the tire is greatly reduced which could lead to early tire failure when operating in rough terrain.
I only have one set of rear tires filled with CaCl fluid of ALL my tractors, 3 CC's & 2 Farmall's. I'm glad I have the extra 1000 pounds of weight pushing snow in winter and when lifting heavy stuff with the loader but the rims are in fairly bad shape compared to the 3 yr older rims on the M that have never had fluid in them.
Using washer fluid adds less weight but should prevent the rust issues. But it still makes fixing flat tires a PITA. Just ask DON.
this heat has got me to wondering if anyone out there has ever added a cooling fan to the lower grill of their tractor. I have installed them on Quads and with this heat seeming to get worse every summer would a cooling fan have any postive effect? Or would it only blow the hot air from the muffler onto the block and not accomplish much?
Barry Keicks
I have thought of ducting air with a fan inside 3" pipe but, I would not move the air from the front to the back of the K ,since the fan moves the air from the back side to the front past the muffler and out the grill. I see my 129 grill has holes that don`t look like they help air flow, I think they restrict air from the front.
I`am sure Dennis or Matt can say this better.
I have thought of ducting air with a fan inside 3" pipe but, I would not move the air from the front to the back of the K ,since the fan moves the air from the back side to the front past the muffler and out the grill. I see my 129 grill has holes that don`t look like they help air flow, I think they restrict air from the front.
I`am sure Dennis or Matt can say this better.
ddulac
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2003
- Messages
- 84
- displayname
- Duh-on
I decided to re-do my homemade headlight panel for the 100 today. I don't remember what ever happened to the original steel panel, but I had built a wooden version to hold the headlights almost eight years ago. It was starting to crack and degrade.
A friend who works for a metal supply store scored me some pieces of aluminum and we cut the circles with a 4" hole saw on a drill press. I lined the four corner holes up with the attachment locations and drilled/countersunk then did the same for the four interior holes. Put it all together with loctite.
I forgot about the center cast-iron web that is located behind the headlights and had to drill four recesses, but didn't go all the way through.
It still needs white paint and an IH logo, but it looks good enough for the women I date.
This is my "fun" cub. It came to me as a cobbled together heap. Although I will refurb it someday, it won't have all the expensive original parts. I'm saving those restoration expenses for my other 100 (which is in much better original shape).
A friend who works for a metal supply store scored me some pieces of aluminum and we cut the circles with a 4" hole saw on a drill press. I lined the four corner holes up with the attachment locations and drilled/countersunk then did the same for the four interior holes. Put it all together with loctite.
I forgot about the center cast-iron web that is located behind the headlights and had to drill four recesses, but didn't go all the way through.
It still needs white paint and an IH logo, but it looks good enough for the women I date.
This is my "fun" cub. It came to me as a cobbled together heap. Although I will refurb it someday, it won't have all the expensive original parts. I'm saving those restoration expenses for my other 100 (which is in much better original shape).
BARRY - Welcome to THE CC forum. I saw a discussion on another forum similar to this about adding an elec. fan to aid cooling of an air cooled engine. The final outcome was it probably wasn't worth the effort.
Electric fans pull a LOT of amps and the charging system on most Kohlers is only good for 15A which doesn't leave much to run an additional fan. If you could find something that pulled say 5 to 8 amps that would leave charging capacity to run the ignition and possibly lights for a while before draining the battery. The fan would have to blow forward away from the front of the tractor. IH actually offered a "reverse air flow fan" on FARMALL tractors as far back as the 1940's and used "forward airflow" on their last model of tractors, 3088/3288/3488/3688/5088/5288/5488's, produced from 1981 till 1985.
To blow air back at the engine would negate most or at least some of the airflow from the blower vanes on the flywheel inside the shrouds of the engine.
I know there's some REALLY good efficient elec. fans available. SON has a Lincoln Mark 8 fan on his '93 Lightning pickup. But he also has a 200 amp alternator to run it and his stereo, elec. fuel pumps, ignition, lights, heater, wipers, etc.
If you could find a fan small enough to fit INSIDE the lower portion of the grill behind the plastic egg crate grill it would probably boost airflow into the blower housing therefore increasing airflow over the cylinder & head of the engine.
We've talked a lot lately about operating temps of these Kohler engines lately and if you check out posts in this forum for the last ten days you'll see some people have monitored cyl. head temps, oil temps, and been surprised at how hot they run.
How much a small elec. fan like I described would reduce engine temps is really hard to say.
Electric fans pull a LOT of amps and the charging system on most Kohlers is only good for 15A which doesn't leave much to run an additional fan. If you could find something that pulled say 5 to 8 amps that would leave charging capacity to run the ignition and possibly lights for a while before draining the battery. The fan would have to blow forward away from the front of the tractor. IH actually offered a "reverse air flow fan" on FARMALL tractors as far back as the 1940's and used "forward airflow" on their last model of tractors, 3088/3288/3488/3688/5088/5288/5488's, produced from 1981 till 1985.
To blow air back at the engine would negate most or at least some of the airflow from the blower vanes on the flywheel inside the shrouds of the engine.
I know there's some REALLY good efficient elec. fans available. SON has a Lincoln Mark 8 fan on his '93 Lightning pickup. But he also has a 200 amp alternator to run it and his stereo, elec. fuel pumps, ignition, lights, heater, wipers, etc.
If you could find a fan small enough to fit INSIDE the lower portion of the grill behind the plastic egg crate grill it would probably boost airflow into the blower housing therefore increasing airflow over the cylinder & head of the engine.
We've talked a lot lately about operating temps of these Kohler engines lately and if you check out posts in this forum for the last ten days you'll see some people have monitored cyl. head temps, oil temps, and been surprised at how hot they run.
How much a small elec. fan like I described would reduce engine temps is really hard to say.
