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Archive through July 04, 2015
- Thread starter dmonasmith
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Allen Schumacher
Charlie, want to check and see if the server is still functioning...
Charlie,
I am writing to thank you so much for publishing the machine codes for all of the IH Cub Cadet tractors, as found in their respective serial numbers. There are several machine codes listed for the Quietline series, and at the end of several series, you have listed (hvc). What does that (hvc) indicate?
I am writing to thank you so much for publishing the machine codes for all of the IH Cub Cadet tractors, as found in their respective serial numbers. There are several machine codes listed for the Quietline series, and at the end of several series, you have listed (hvc). What does that (hvc) indicate?
jnicklas
Well-known member
Hi everyone,
I am going to take up where Scott left off. Scott had mentioned that when he was using his 1650 the belt would free wheel so we thought all we needed to do was adjust the brake, we found there was no brake plate on the engine to adjust and when I attempted to install the one off my engine, I couldn’t get the plate to the studs the pulley and rotor were too far forward on the crank. So we removed the assembly and found the mixture of parts.
Attached are the pictures of the PTO we took off his 1650 last Saturday. As you can see the pulley/rotor assembly is black, the field coil is also black but is thicker than the one we took off my 1650 blown engine. We installed my PTO assembly and attempted to adjust the best we could. As a result it wasn’t good enough. Now for where we need help, all the pictures I see on the internet and in the service manual show the rotor and pulley in two pieces. Charlie has them separate in his parts listing, I can see a split in the bore where the 2 pieces meet but how do you get them apart? This is necessary to get the proper spacing for the rotor and field coil. I have tried a 3 jaw puller but have not been successful.
Thanks in advance.
I am going to take up where Scott left off. Scott had mentioned that when he was using his 1650 the belt would free wheel so we thought all we needed to do was adjust the brake, we found there was no brake plate on the engine to adjust and when I attempted to install the one off my engine, I couldn’t get the plate to the studs the pulley and rotor were too far forward on the crank. So we removed the assembly and found the mixture of parts.
Attached are the pictures of the PTO we took off his 1650 last Saturday. As you can see the pulley/rotor assembly is black, the field coil is also black but is thicker than the one we took off my 1650 blown engine. We installed my PTO assembly and attempted to adjust the best we could. As a result it wasn’t good enough. Now for where we need help, all the pictures I see on the internet and in the service manual show the rotor and pulley in two pieces. Charlie has them separate in his parts listing, I can see a split in the bore where the 2 pieces meet but how do you get them apart? This is necessary to get the proper spacing for the rotor and field coil. I have tried a 3 jaw puller but have not been successful.
Thanks in advance.
lpalma
Well-known member
Marty,
The red wire in the harness is factory,my 122 and 123 have it in it.It gets mounted to the dash tower with the yellow ground wire from the battery,then it connects to the v/r mounting tab.That wiring diagram is wrong, as there is one out there with the red wire in it.
The red wire in the harness is factory,my 122 and 123 have it in it.It gets mounted to the dash tower with the yellow ground wire from the battery,then it connects to the v/r mounting tab.That wiring diagram is wrong, as there is one out there with the red wire in it.
Brian Wittman:
Back in the days of yore, the Federal Government decided that after a certain date, all motor vehicles (including lawn mowers & garden tractors) had to comply with certain safety and noise standards. I would guess that at that time IH added "hvc" to the model number indicating a Home Vehicle Compliant Cub Cadet meeting the federal standards. Note that the machine codes changed slightly from 0067 to 0670 at the same time so dealers would know what standards had to be met when doing repairs, etc...
Myron B
This may be the best answer you'll get....
Back in the days of yore, the Federal Government decided that after a certain date, all motor vehicles (including lawn mowers & garden tractors) had to comply with certain safety and noise standards. I would guess that at that time IH added "hvc" to the model number indicating a Home Vehicle Compliant Cub Cadet meeting the federal standards. Note that the machine codes changed slightly from 0067 to 0670 at the same time so dealers would know what standards had to be met when doing repairs, etc...
Myron B
This may be the best answer you'll get....
jchamberlin
Well-known member
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- Jul 19, 2010
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- 1,842
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Marty: Following up on Lewis "Do-Dah" Palma's contribution, I find that Roland Bedell's Fancy Colored Diagram for the 72 & 1x4/5 series tractors includes the red wire. See below:
I would now be curious to learn the serial numbers of both your tractor and Lewis's two tractors from the 1x2/3 Series. I'm betting that your tractors were produced relatively late in the 1x2/3 production run.
I would now be curious to learn the serial numbers of both your tractor and Lewis's two tractors from the 1x2/3 Series. I'm betting that your tractors were produced relatively late in the 1x2/3 production run.
This axle has been snapped completely into two pieces. It's for a 149 worker I'm refurbing a bit. I hope this question isn't out of line but I'd like some opinions on the welds. The axle is straight and seems to be put back together well. I've made worse welds (plenty of times). I'm just concerned because the cast iron thing. I know it can be welded...I'm just not the best judge and wanted some input.
You can see which side is which by the grease fitting as if it matters. Is there a reason for the "+" on each side??? I don't understand the two lengthwise runs on the bottom either.
Would anyone here not use this axle??? The spindle/pivot holes are all in good shape and The grease fittings flushed well.
.
You can see which side is which by the grease fitting as if it matters. Is there a reason for the "+" on each side??? I don't understand the two lengthwise runs on the bottom either.
Would anyone here not use this axle??? The spindle/pivot holes are all in good shape and The grease fittings flushed well.
.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Wayne: As for the quality of the welds, I can only say that they are better than what I can do. I believe that when welding cast material you're <u>supposed</u> to heat the whole piece up almost to the point where it is molten BEFORE welding on it, something about the intense heat of welding disturbing the crystalline structure of the cast material ya-da-ya-da.
As for your axle, I ran my 149 for years with an axle that was broken about the same distance for the pivot hole, but on the opposite side, near the grease fitting. The person who welded it (a community college instructor, I'm told) added a piece of flat bar on each side, across the "valley" of the I-Beam. On the grease fitting side, he cut out an angled semi-circle so that the grease fitting could be accessed. Unfortunately, his access "port" didn't allow my grease gun to get to the fitting, so I finally removed the axle and pitched it; otherwise I would share a picture of it.
However, the axle did not fail in service. I don't see where it would hurt to reassemble and try it out.
Edit: Judging from the color of the paint on my tractor, he may have used a torch to heat up the parts before welding on them.
As for your axle, I ran my 149 for years with an axle that was broken about the same distance for the pivot hole, but on the opposite side, near the grease fitting. The person who welded it (a community college instructor, I'm told) added a piece of flat bar on each side, across the "valley" of the I-Beam. On the grease fitting side, he cut out an angled semi-circle so that the grease fitting could be accessed. Unfortunately, his access "port" didn't allow my grease gun to get to the fitting, so I finally removed the axle and pitched it; otherwise I would share a picture of it.
However, the axle did not fail in service. I don't see where it would hurt to reassemble and try it out.
Edit: Judging from the color of the paint on my tractor, he may have used a torch to heat up the parts before welding on them.
