dmonasmith
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- Doug Monasmith
I really don't want to re-wire the whole thing but that may be next on the list.
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Archive through July 04, 2015
- Thread starter dmonasmith
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgwin
Well-known member
Two questions regarding a 122.
1 Would the orange wires going to the safety switch have to be connected if the switch were removed?
2 On the wiring harness, where the orange safety switch wires come out, there is a red wire connected to ground. What is the purpose of this wire? Everything is already grounded to the frame.
Hope everyone had a safe and wonderful fourth!
1 Would the orange wires going to the safety switch have to be connected if the switch were removed?
2 On the wiring harness, where the orange safety switch wires come out, there is a red wire connected to ground. What is the purpose of this wire? Everything is already grounded to the frame.
Hope everyone had a safe and wonderful fourth!
glippert
Well-known member
Marty -I don't know about the ground wire, but yes, if the safety switch is not used, the wires should be connected to each other to complete the circuit.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Doug-
You need to grab a wiring diagram from the collection Charlie has put up on the forum here and start methodically troubleshooting it. Replacing parts at random is the slowest and most expensive way to fix electrical problems.
If it won't crank, get out your multimeter and make sure you have 12V at the big terminal of the solenoid, and 12V at the "B" terminal on the ignition switch. If it it working intermittently you may have a bad ground connection. Have you cleaned the connections on the ground cable for the battery? What shape is the cable itself in? If you can see corrosion coming out from under the insulation, the cable needs to be replaced.
You need to grab a wiring diagram from the collection Charlie has put up on the forum here and start methodically troubleshooting it. Replacing parts at random is the slowest and most expensive way to fix electrical problems.
If it won't crank, get out your multimeter and make sure you have 12V at the big terminal of the solenoid, and 12V at the "B" terminal on the ignition switch. If it it working intermittently you may have a bad ground connection. Have you cleaned the connections on the ground cable for the battery? What shape is the cable itself in? If you can see corrosion coming out from under the insulation, the cable needs to be replaced.
mconway
Well-known member
yeah jim i had it at about 3/4 throttle. just for a bit tho. rpm is set where it should be and i mow at full throttle but eased into it for the initial startup on the rebuilt deck. i left the pulleys as i only wanted what is seen to look decent...and i think it does....
bkflanigan
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- Bryan K Flanigan
Finding the model number of a IH Cub Cadet
I have a 2050670U605060
So far I have found out its a 77 Garden Tractor, but I can't seem to figure out which of the following model numbers it is.
1000,1200,1250,1450,1650
I am devolving so I threw my 8 year old Craftsman rider in the trash and bought this Cub for 300. Since then I have rebuilt the relief valves, welded up holes in the deck, replaced the tension spring in the deck, fixed the lift mechanism for the snow plow, replaced the seat, replaced the fuel hose and cleaned the gas tank, and replaced all the tie rod ends. Then next thing I have to do require me to have a model number (rewiring everything)
Thanks for any help, and if you point me to something I missed that has the information in plain sight I will delete this post and go hide my head in the corner...
Bryan
I have a 2050670U605060
So far I have found out its a 77 Garden Tractor, but I can't seem to figure out which of the following model numbers it is.
1000,1200,1250,1450,1650
I am devolving so I threw my 8 year old Craftsman rider in the trash and bought this Cub for 300. Since then I have rebuilt the relief valves, welded up holes in the deck, replaced the tension spring in the deck, fixed the lift mechanism for the snow plow, replaced the seat, replaced the fuel hose and cleaned the gas tank, and replaced all the tie rod ends. Then next thing I have to do require me to have a model number (rewiring everything)
Thanks for any help, and if you point me to something I missed that has the information in plain sight I will delete this post and go hide my head in the corner...
Bryan
Bryan F.
How bout a picture.
The first 3 numbers mean it's a garden tractor.
The next 4 are the machine code.
The U, means it's made in the USA
and the last batch is the serial number.
Under Edit,
The wiring harness is the same for all the QL's in this series, 800,1000,1200,1250,1450,1650.
How bout a picture.
The first 3 numbers mean it's a garden tractor.
The next 4 are the machine code.
The U, means it's made in the USA
and the last batch is the serial number.
Under Edit,
The wiring harness is the same for all the QL's in this series, 800,1000,1200,1250,1450,1650.
mgwin
Well-known member
Back again on the wiring. Why would there be a red wire for ground instead of a green wire? I sure don't want to burn anything up when I install the battery and try to start the 122!
Any help would surely be appreciated.
Any help would surely be appreciated.
bkflanigan
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- Bryan K Flanigan
Cproctor
Here are a couple of shots. I've sort of fell it love with the thing and am starting to spend all my disposable income on it...
http://www.flaniganbros.com/cub1.JPG
http://www.flaniganbros.com/cub2.JPG
Here are a couple of shots. I've sort of fell it love with the thing and am starting to spend all my disposable income on it...
http://www.flaniganbros.com/cub1.JPG
http://www.flaniganbros.com/cub2.JPG
I guess it's about time I added the codes to cubfaq.com!
http://cubfaq.com/kindcodes2.html
http://cubfaq.com/kindcodes2.html
Bryan K F
I'm not one of the WF guys. Plus one of the newer guys (or at least not one of the experts) on this site. So no advice.
But I have two things to say.
1) Your "Boats" look cool. Not sure where you start to call then ships?
2) The advice you get is not going to be free.
a) One of the 1650 guys are going to ask you to count the fins on your Kohler. And they will want to add it to the database.
Hope you all had A good 4TH.
Bill
I'm not one of the WF guys. Plus one of the newer guys (or at least not one of the experts) on this site. So no advice.
But I have two things to say.
1) Your "Boats" look cool. Not sure where you start to call then ships?
2) The advice you get is not going to be free.
a) One of the 1650 guys are going to ask you to count the fins on your Kohler. And they will want to add it to the database.
Hope you all had A good 4TH.
Bill
jchamberlin
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Marty, the only connections to ground shown on the schematic for the 122 model are:
1. At the battery's negative terminal (a cable)
2. At the starter solenoid (the mounting tabs must make a good connection to ground)
3. At the starter/generator (again, the starter/generator case makes an electrical connection to the frame of the tractor, I think some folks reinforce the connection with a cable)
4. At voltage regulator, once more through the case of the component
5. At the condenser, the case is grounded
6. At the points, the pivot screw maintains a ground connection
7. The spark plug is grounded to the cylinder head
So the only cable that should be going to ground is the negative battery cable! You should be able to trace any other cable in the chassis going to ground to one of the components mentioned, or, alternatively, remove it and see what happens.
One possibility is that a previous owner added an electrical accessory and needed a wire connected to ground.
(By-the-way, in DC applications, the "ground" is often black in color, not green as seen in home, commercial, and industrial AC applications.)
Good Luck
For Reference:
Edit: Bill Rhodes: Funny.
1. At the battery's negative terminal (a cable)
2. At the starter solenoid (the mounting tabs must make a good connection to ground)
3. At the starter/generator (again, the starter/generator case makes an electrical connection to the frame of the tractor, I think some folks reinforce the connection with a cable)
4. At voltage regulator, once more through the case of the component
5. At the condenser, the case is grounded
6. At the points, the pivot screw maintains a ground connection
7. The spark plug is grounded to the cylinder head
So the only cable that should be going to ground is the negative battery cable! You should be able to trace any other cable in the chassis going to ground to one of the components mentioned, or, alternatively, remove it and see what happens.
One possibility is that a previous owner added an electrical accessory and needed a wire connected to ground.
(By-the-way, in DC applications, the "ground" is often black in color, not green as seen in home, commercial, and industrial AC applications.)
Good Luck
For Reference:
Edit: Bill Rhodes: Funny.
mgwin
Well-known member
Jeremiah,
I have looked at several wiring diagrams including the one in the IH 122 operators manual.
The red wire I am talking about comes out of the wiring harness where the two orange wires come out going to the safety switch. None of the diagrams show this wire in that location.
This is the original harness that came on the tractor.
There is one other red ground wire (of that size) that attaches to the voltage regulator. I am assuming the wire in question is connected similar to this one.
I have looked at several wiring diagrams including the one in the IH 122 operators manual.
The red wire I am talking about comes out of the wiring harness where the two orange wires come out going to the safety switch. None of the diagrams show this wire in that location.
This is the original harness that came on the tractor.
There is one other red ground wire (of that size) that attaches to the voltage regulator. I am assuming the wire in question is connected similar to this one.
jchamberlin
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Marty: I'm curious about your voltage regulator. According to the schematic there shouldn't be a red ground wire involved.
Here is a picture of the regulator as installed in one of my 122's:
The wire colors are supposed to be:
1. Yellow
2. Light Blue
3. Gray
But (1) I'm color blind, and (2) the colors fade curiously when exposed to the elements, so the outside sheathing often needs to be removed to get the true color of the wire's insulation.
But, again, three wires and none of them are red.
If you have four wires at your regulator, including a ground wire, then you might be looking at a non-original, non-standard regulator which required four wires, including a ground wire, for proper installation. I remember discussions on this forum (Dennis Frisk?) about how this particular mounting position with it's heat and vibration lead to the death of many voltage regulators. I'm thinking that Dennis removed his to the rear of the tractor with good results, but my memory is about as good as my ability to correctly identify wire colors so it may have been someone else who moved their regulator to the rear.
As you can see, the older voltage regulators as found in the Cub Cadet Original, 70, and 100 used a four wire connection, but the dark blue wire went to the Armature of the Starter/Generator, not to ground.
P.S. Have you tried removing both ends of the suspicious red wire and putting an Ohmmeter to each end? If you have continuity, then you may have found what the wire is doing there.
Edit: The serial number of the 122 depicted is 157125 = End of May 1966.
Here is a picture of the regulator as installed in one of my 122's:
The wire colors are supposed to be:
1. Yellow
2. Light Blue
3. Gray
But (1) I'm color blind, and (2) the colors fade curiously when exposed to the elements, so the outside sheathing often needs to be removed to get the true color of the wire's insulation.
But, again, three wires and none of them are red.
If you have four wires at your regulator, including a ground wire, then you might be looking at a non-original, non-standard regulator which required four wires, including a ground wire, for proper installation. I remember discussions on this forum (Dennis Frisk?) about how this particular mounting position with it's heat and vibration lead to the death of many voltage regulators. I'm thinking that Dennis removed his to the rear of the tractor with good results, but my memory is about as good as my ability to correctly identify wire colors so it may have been someone else who moved their regulator to the rear.
As you can see, the older voltage regulators as found in the Cub Cadet Original, 70, and 100 used a four wire connection, but the dark blue wire went to the Armature of the Starter/Generator, not to ground.
P.S. Have you tried removing both ends of the suspicious red wire and putting an Ohmmeter to each end? If you have continuity, then you may have found what the wire is doing there.
Edit: The serial number of the 122 depicted is 157125 = End of May 1966.
bkflanigan
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- Bryan K Flanigan
Bill Rhodes (Brhodes)
Thanks about the boats, my family has been restoring and repairing them since the 50's, there is nothing quite like messing about with boats.
Are there manuals available here for the 1650?
Thanks about the boats, my family has been restoring and repairing them since the 50's, there is nothing quite like messing about with boats.
Are there manuals available here for the 1650?
glippert
Well-known member
Bryan K F - To find the manuals, go back to the main page and scroll down the list of topics; Manuals topic is 4th from the bottom. The 1650 is in the "1x8-9 & QL Service Manual" section.
