Archive through July 02, 2007

[kweaver]

Jeff - I vote (YES I DO!) for yard mower
Maybe if/when the engine craps out you can change it over to a shaft drive hydro and Kohler firebreather ... if frame permits.

 

[mgonitzke]

582 Special is just like the normal 582 Garden Tractor except the 582 Special has the 482/1100 peerless transaxle. You could remove that, bolt in a normal Cub Cadet gear drive rearend, get the right clutch parts, and have a normal 582.

 

[kweaver]

Matt - That's good to keep in mind, I didn't know if the frame would need any mods for the shaft driven hydro to bolt in. I'd change the numbers to 682 though

 

[mgonitzke]

If you want a 682 though, you'll need a different plastic dash.

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - 582 Special was the Peerless rearend....582 was the good cast iron IHC rearend. Both had 16 HP 2-cyl. Briggs engines. 682 & 782 both had 17 HP Kohler 2-cyl engines. 682 had no hyd. lift and 782 did.

 

[jblankespoor]

heres a question..I have a 126 gear drive for parts..will the narrow frame trans/rearend fit in the 582 sp?

 

[mgonitzke]

Yep...you'll need a 582 clutch hanger bracket and driveshaft/clutch assembly. Rearend should bolt right in if you remove all of the Peerless trans mounting stuff and belt clutch, right angle gear box, etc. You'll also need some of those little bellcrank things from the 126's clutch pedal shaft that actuate the clutch and brakes. You may need to make custom length pull rods for the brakes.

 

[lmantta]

Can anyone give me a tip on how to get rid of the play in a Cub 1450 steering wheel? I have about a third of a turn play in it and was wondering if there is an adjustment I can make on the steering gear box to get rid of this play. The tie rod ends are tight. Thanks!

 

[kweaver]

Larry - 3/4 turn of play is almost new to these old machines Check out the FAQ link above. The adjustment is on the bottom end of the box but it may need rebuilt.

http://tinyurl.com/2k2hv2

 

[mbounds]

Uh Oh...The steering slack adjustment is NOT on the bottom of the box!! It is on the side!! It's called the cam follower stud/pin...

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[kweaver]

Oh yea ! Now I 'memberz Loosen up the nut (I'm already loose) then turn in the screw and check steering full right to left then back to center. Tighten jam nut and ... I also snug up the bottom screw slotted dohicky to take out 30 years of bearing wear

and find the hidden zerk and shoot that sucker with grease !

 

[jblankespoor]

thanks for the low down on the 582 matt.
I did some mods to my 125 the other day..put a reciever hitch on back to move boats and trailers..put some 50lb ? wieghts in the rear wheels.. and put a straight chrome pipe on it..Ive been looking for work to do around the yard for days so I could play with my 125..I just got done spaying weeds in the grove with it tonight.I have to say the chrome pipe had to go..nothing cracks like a single kohler...WHAT DID YOU SAY?

 

[bcorn]

That is interesting on the rearend changes. As I start rebuilding my 1650 which I call my "little work horse" I wondered if anybody has on a whim changed the rearend to a gear drive??

I know curiosity killed the cat!

Pops

 

[dfrisk]

MYRON - On those old ROSS diecast steering gearboxes I find most of the looseness in the steering comes from the top thrust bearing race collapsing or distorting and working it's way up inside of the steering tube and causing the problem Larry mentions. On the old gearboxs off the 72 and the 129 I sold last summer I installed a 1-1/2" OD X 3/4" ID steel ring inside the tube to back up the upper thrust bearing retainer to prevent that from happening. On the old box off the 72 even with that repair after about 15-20 years the steering shaft would back up OUT of the steering tube about 3/4 inch when You turned the correct way, I forget if it was left or right. When I priced a new threaded stud to engage the steering worm about 25-30 yrs ago and found out how much they cost then (over $20) I did some fine work on the old one with a file and a grinder, IF You tighten them in too far they bind up the whole gearbox and lock them up at tighter turning angles.
Larry need to watch His steering shaft where it comes up out of the steering tube to see how much verticle movement the shaft has as He turns His steering wheel. The steering worm and stud are both hardened and very little wear actually occurs, especially on the worm since the stud runs almost the entire groove.

 

[bgolden]

Charlie, Thanks for the mower deck diagram. I did try to find it in the parts lookup but didn't find anything.
I always try to help myself before asking for help.
Bill

 

[digger]

Bill G.
Sometimes we have to tilt our heads the other way to find what we need! I know I have to.

 

[wjpate]

The steering box thread has managed to lure me out of my lurker status. My 126 threatens to threw me into the ditch when I mow close to it. Are most steering units the same? I was thinking of rebuilding one out of a 106 and swapping it over to the 126, then doing that one. It this feasible?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, Dudley, unfortunatly that loader tractor was posted at a time when I was not archiving the text. I do not have a record of who that tractor belongs(ed) to. Sorry.

 

[mgonitzke]

William P.-

Yes, they're the same.

 

[lmantta]

Thanks all for the information on the steering box, now I have another one, brakes on a 1450. Mine don't have wheel brakes, it has a lever on the side of the axle housing that does something inside. Are these type brakes adjustable?