mgonitzke
Well-known member
I would remove only the charge pump for now. Based on what you've said I'd be really surprised if that wasn't the problem.
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Archive through January 23, 2013
- Thread starter mgerecke
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Donald T: On edit: looking at the service manual it looks like I answered my own question about looking in the charge pump. What do you suppose would cause the noise in the pump if the pin is bad? It seems like if the pin failed the pump wouldn't work at all. And if I ignore this noise am I setting myself up for a catastrophic hydro disaster down the line? Who knows how long this has being going on? I just now noticed it but I've not had this tractor very long.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Richard-
To expand on my previous post (which was for you) I don't think it's the pin for the charge pump. If that pin was sheared, I don't think anything would work, and if it did, it wouldn't bind on every 7th turn exactly. I suspect there's some sort of damage to one of the charge pump teeth, and every time it touches the same spot it binds. I would not run it any more until you've had a chance to see what's going on. It's pretty easy to remove the charge pump.
To expand on my previous post (which was for you) I don't think it's the pin for the charge pump. If that pin was sheared, I don't think anything would work, and if it did, it wouldn't bind on every 7th turn exactly. I suspect there's some sort of damage to one of the charge pump teeth, and every time it touches the same spot it binds. I would not run it any more until you've had a chance to see what's going on. It's pretty easy to remove the charge pump.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Quick thought on the charge pump. Matt G. is probably correct. Somehow a very slight nick happened to one of the teeth and is causing the thump.
I'm at work getting ready to start my day. Everyone BE SAFE and stay warm.
I'm at work getting ready to start my day. Everyone BE SAFE and stay warm.
Richard R. Johnson
I would mark the pump because it has to go back the same way. I hope you don`t find this .
pin could be ok and the pump gear could be damaged .The pin sits in the notches in the inside gear .
I would mark the pump because it has to go back the same way. I hope you don`t find this .
pin could be ok and the pump gear could be damaged .The pin sits in the notches in the inside gear .
Richard R. Johnson
(Donald T: Can I take off the cover and inspect and possibly fix the pin in the charge pump without taking out the input shaft? Or do I need to do a complete teardown of the hydro?)
Remove the drive shaft and coupler ; take out the two bolts for the charge pump and it will slide off the pump shaft. be careful not to damage the front seal on any burrs on the pump shaft.you then can inspect the pump gear .
(Donald T: Can I take off the cover and inspect and possibly fix the pin in the charge pump without taking out the input shaft? Or do I need to do a complete teardown of the hydro?)
Remove the drive shaft and coupler ; take out the two bolts for the charge pump and it will slide off the pump shaft. be careful not to damage the front seal on any burrs on the pump shaft.you then can inspect the pump gear .
Tristan, nice sunset photo with the Cub.
Bill, any idea why the pulley was mounted there? Did the PO have a blade or some other front implement that required a cable to lift it?
Bill, any idea why the pulley was mounted there? Did the PO have a blade or some other front implement that required a cable to lift it?
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Kraig - the pully looks like a stand-in for a large washer. There were no attachments with this tractor that I know saw laying around when I bought it, so I can't say it was used on any attachment.
Richard, I'm a gear drive guy and know absolutely nothing about charge pumps, but it's interesting that you have a catch every seven revolutions and the piece Don posted has 7 lobes. Don't know if there's a connection, but quite a coincidence.
Regarding my hydro noise, what I'm hearing about my charge pump sort of confirms my suspicions. Assuming my charge pump gear just has a burr or nick rather than a crack or break, do you think I can just clean it up and not have to spring for some real $$$ replacement gears? It'll be a few days until I can get into it to see what I'm faced with.
hydroharry
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Richard J - before I'd go putting big $$$ into hydro pump repair parts, I looked into a complete used non-ported hydro pump (like your 125 would have). The pumps have been so bullet proof I suspect it's considered a very slow moving used parts inventory item, and prices would reflect this as well.
mhomrighausen
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Richard J. Before I'd even consider going through a Cub Cadet dealer for a new charge pump try locating in your state a Sauer Danfoss Distributor near you and price out the charge pump. The price difference should be immensely cheaper than through Cub Cadet. Trust me on this one....
And the answer is NO... even though I actually work at the facility that makes the 15U pump like in your Cub Cadet even I don't get a price break however I know the parts are a LOT cheaper through a Distributor. Keep us posted.
Like anyone would buy a new one when used are less than 100 bucks any where!
I've got go problem putting in a used charge pump in my hydro. I'm just not sure where "anywhere" is. Poking around the Internet doesn't produce many charge pumps for sale other than on complete hydro units. And here in Los Angeles we don't have any Cub Cadet salvage yards. Not seeing much in the forum sponsors either. Back to my last question...if I have a burr or nick on the gear can I just clean it up?
Since I have your attention, I also have another question that I'm just curious about. When these hydros are towed, even with the check valves open, what kind of damage is done to the innards? Where do they fail?
Since I have your attention, I also have another question that I'm just curious about. When these hydros are towed, even with the check valves open, what kind of damage is done to the innards? Where do they fail?
Finally got rid of that old leaky glass sediment bowl on my 104! lol " only took 2 months to get motivated to do it " Maybe even longer,got all the parts b4 thanksgiving I think. Oh well its done , no leaks even added ss braiding to the lines.Looks pretty nice.
Kevin.. I would like to post pics in here , but for some reason I've always have trouble and they get rejected. HAvent tried to post any in a while,basically gave up on it,but I will try once again. I would email them to you,but I think somone has decided to change my password and havent been able to get into my email in a few weeks. I can tell you what I used if it helps. Theres a bunch a people in here I'm sure has a better way,but this worked good for me. I switched the gastank & carb fuel line fittings.
Gastank fitting -- 1/8 x 1/4 straight barb
carb fitting -- 1/8x 1/4 90 barb
inline shut off -- Primeline 7-02324-1
inline filter -- Primeline 7-07103
1/4 fuel line
I just ran mine straight down, under the carb and back up to the 90 facing down. I had the ss braided hose sittin around, that was a bit of a pain gettin it on,but worth it. I'll to resize the pic on my camera once again,but I'm not going to hold my breath . lol
Gastank fitting -- 1/8 x 1/4 straight barb
carb fitting -- 1/8x 1/4 90 barb
inline shut off -- Primeline 7-02324-1
inline filter -- Primeline 7-07103
1/4 fuel line
I just ran mine straight down, under the carb and back up to the 90 facing down. I had the ss braided hose sittin around, that was a bit of a pain gettin it on,but worth it. I'll to resize the pic on my camera once again,but I'm not going to hold my breath . lol
Richard R. Johnson
( .if I have a burr or nick on the gear can I just clean it up? )
If the burn has damaged the surface that the star part runs against there will be a fluid loss where the score is, resulting in fluid loss and less pressure developed by the pump.
(When these hydros are towed, even with the check valves open, what kind of damage is done to the innards? Where do they fail? )
inside the hydro are baskets that hold pistons that run on a a flat surface of The swash plate. This surface will be damage when the tractor is towed through heat generated by these pistons ridding against the plate with no lubrication.
looking at the picture above you can see the pistons and the holder they sit into.They ride against a washer that that sits on the swash plate;when you move the hydro handle you move the swash plate which tips the end of the piston in its holder. The holder has a gear that connects to the pump shaft that gives motion .When the piston ends or the washer get damaged from heat when towing because there is no pump pressure the fluid loss is no longer controlled by the pistons and the movement of the swash plate .
hopefully Hydro Harry or some else can do a better job at explaining the function of the hydro pump. I just don`t have the skills to !
( .if I have a burr or nick on the gear can I just clean it up? )
If the burn has damaged the surface that the star part runs against there will be a fluid loss where the score is, resulting in fluid loss and less pressure developed by the pump.
(When these hydros are towed, even with the check valves open, what kind of damage is done to the innards? Where do they fail? )
inside the hydro are baskets that hold pistons that run on a a flat surface of The swash plate. This surface will be damage when the tractor is towed through heat generated by these pistons ridding against the plate with no lubrication.
looking at the picture above you can see the pistons and the holder they sit into.They ride against a washer that that sits on the swash plate;when you move the hydro handle you move the swash plate which tips the end of the piston in its holder. The holder has a gear that connects to the pump shaft that gives motion .When the piston ends or the washer get damaged from heat when towing because there is no pump pressure the fluid loss is no longer controlled by the pistons and the movement of the swash plate .
hopefully Hydro Harry or some else can do a better job at explaining the function of the hydro pump. I just don`t have the skills to !
