Archive through January 07, 2011

[wshytle]

Thanks Dennis-

This engine is partially apart but still in the tractor as it was when I acquired it. I paid $200 for the tractor mainly because it had ag tires, wheel weights, headlights, and the 3pt hitch. The tractor as a whole is in very good shape so it will see life again. It's about 4th or 5th in line. I plan to remove the engine and go completely through it eventually. The oil fill/dipstick tube is located in the front right like you mentioned. I don't have the dipstick for this engine either. That's supposedly the only missing part.

 

[aaytay]

Luther-
Where did you get that replacement engine for your 169??? You've now got the same spec number (and pretty close serial number) to the engine my 169 has!

Harry (and anyone else paying attention to the discussion)-

You've got some great discussion going on here with regards to the 169 engines. Perhaps I can throw a handfull of sand into this finely tuned swiss watch..

While comparing Serial numbers and engine build dates help, I don't think that tells the the WHOLE story about what's going on here. It is my understanding that the Spec Number Kohler gave these engines is more specific with regards to WHICH engine we each have in our tractors and how it was designed and assembled. In other words, my guess would be that the 12-fin and 13-fin engines have different Spec numbers.

Here's where I start throwing sand...

A page or two back you mentioned that that QuiteLine tractors is where the engines started having foil decals instead of stamped tin engine I.D. tags. That's what I always thought too....UNTIL!

My 169 has FOIL decals showing Spec and Serial numbers. When I first saw them I thought, "This tractor obviously has a replacement engine in it." but when I checked the engine serial number (#6201333) it does check out as a 1974 build-date.

Although it certainly could be, I don't see any evidence of black paint, or a repaint of the engine block or tin, so I'm convinced this is an original 169 (12-fin) engine.

I'll add my info to yours:

Ok, a few more details to help with the 12 vs. 13 fin phenomena. I should have asked you to post serial numbers of your 12 and 13 fin Kohlers, and the 169 tractors. That could help identify original vs replacement engines. Here are my details.

Model 169, Serial no. 523760 (produced Sept 1974)
Kohler K341A, 13 cooling fins, Serial no. 6272028 (produced 1974)

My sons Model 169, Serial no. 528330 (produced Oct. 1974)
Kohler K341A, 12 cooling fins, Serial no. 6337740 (produced 1974)

The info from my tractor is as follows:

Model 169, Serial no. 519940 (produced August. 1974)
Kohler K341A, 12 cooling fins, Serial no. 6201333 (produced 1974), Spec Number 71154a

You'll notice that my earlier tractor serial number also has an earlier engine serial number than the two you listed, so that "seems Kosher".

Thanks for starting this discussion...

 

[mgwin]

Dennis or anyone,
I hate to break in on the great fin debate.... but, if IH didn't make rear rims (size 6-12) with the valve stem hole on the inside, who did??? J.D.?

 

[aaytay]

Marty-
There were probably a number of manufacturers who used 6-12 rims with the valve stem on the inside. I have a pair here that I believe came from a Wheel Horse tractor. It had one of these tires on it...

 

[mgonitzke]

Marty-

I think everybody but CC used the 'backwards' valve stem 6-12 wheels.

Art-

the 86, 108, and both 128s I had had the foil engine tags. I think they started with that series.

 

[dfrisk]

MARTY - Not sure about other brands, but I know the little green tractors have wheels that can be run either concave, or convex, meaning one way the valve stem would be to the inside and the other way to the outside.

EWC & F&H rolled standard sized rims, and stamped out standard wheel centers. Each component had it's own part number for each company. But customers could request ANY off-set of those two components that would result in a specific part number that became the IH, JD, WH, Bolens, Ariends, Simplicity part number.

ALL the CC rear wheels are meant to be run "concave" and they all have different back spacings so as the wheel/tire gets wider the added width is split pretty evenly between the inside and outside.

I don't think I've ever seen an F&H L&G wheel but I know they had the capability to make them. Every CC wheel I've seen has the EWC trademark on the back side of the center and between the rim beads inside the tire/tube.

I read some info on another L&G tractor site that EWC had a labor problem back in the 60's or 70's and the production of little green tractors stopped when they ran out of wheels. Their engineers & purchasing people found some other source for wheels to run for a while, and from posts I read, most of those wheels, which had flat plate centers with machined pilot holes & lug bolt holes all cracked and failed. They're now considered "Rare and collectable".

There are some wheels that I know of that were designed to have TWO valve stems, one on the inside and one on the outside, but not both at the same time. One hole was plugged. We even used one wheel like that at FARMALL.

 

[meross]

Hi guys,
I could use some help with my 108. I have a snow plow on it but can't seem to get it to work very well. It will not plow down to the pavement. I check the feet they are not the issue. Today I had a few inches of snow so I tried an idea. I have 80lbs of wieht sitting on the plow. Thar does get it down to the pavement, but that can't be the way to go. With all that weight up fron I'm afraid any obstacle will make me loose traction. I do not have wheel weights, but I do have chains on it. I have seen videos of folks with 108's plowing to the pavement with no noticeable mods. So what is wrong? Thanks.

 

[ssouhrada]

Michael,
Is your lift rod too short and not letting the plow go all the way down. Unhook it from the lift arm and see if that helps. Otherwise, something may be bent or sprung????

 

[meross]

Shane,
Thanks. I'll check into the lift arm. it's possible something is bent. I bought it second hand a few months ago. I know I need springs on the part that locks it in place. That was another thread here.

 

[jrlewis]

Alright I am house bound and need information. What is the best way to check a starter generator and a voltage regulator off the cub tractor. I have a white colored generator starter I think? Don't know if it works or not or about rotation. I am new to this older Cub starting and generating. I have been reading about the 13 fin and the 12 fin blocks here and what is the real difference between them other than the count and the one boss area. Do any of you ever rework and weld inserts into rusted out decks? I do and it takes time but you can save a deck.