Archive through January 06, 2013

[dschwandt]

Thanks Wayne. I think I'm gonna use it. The threads are in great shape for the cradle bolts whereas the one I took off the 1450 were all buggered up plus it had been sitting on the cradle and the bosses were worn unevenly into the bottom area of the pan.

On another note, I'm doing the cyl head sand/glass/resurface thing also on this tractor and was wondering about the head gasket. I have an original Kohler gasket w/fire ring so I'm good to go in that dept. Do the head gasket go on dry??? And what about the pan and other gaskets?? Dry or some sealant??

Thanks!!

Dave S.

 

[tbdavis]

Well all - May have committed a mortal error today by bead blasting a K321 block and praying someone will have mercy on this sorry novice and suggest a way to clean it good . Crank was out and all holes, etc. covered as best possible . HELP!

 

[digger]

Terry D.
If I were you, I would take it to your local machine shop/auto dealer/parts store and have them run it through their big parts cleaner/steamer.

Unless you have a parts washer and a lot of patience that is.

 

[tbdavis]

Good idea! Will do some checking to see who has a hefty size tank. Was thinking of loading it up with Dawn and hitting it with my pressure washer but might rust before I get the water turned off?

 

[digger]

Terry D.
You don't want to dip it.
You want to pressure/steam clean it.
Most all bigger machine shops and car dealers have large cleaners that steam/pressure clean parts and then coat them with flash rust preventive solution.

 

[aschumacher]

Jason C, look here for a drawing of a 70. It's very basic. The ignition switch has to be on to run. If it runs with pushing the start button, I would suspect a shorted pair of wires somewhere. I'm not familiar with a 70, so maybe you'll have to remove the battery to look in the tower to see whats up with the wiring. Good luck. <font size="-2">Translation...its not supposed to run with the button pushed unless the ignit switch is on. Maybe a bad ignit sw also.</font>

 

[tbdavis]

Thanks Charlie for clarifying that for me. I'll check around tomorrow. Have a K301 being blasted and bored at an engine shop so I'll check them out as well. I did get a NOS utility box with plugs and hitch today in a big box of Cub "stuff". Need to find a pile of cash before this Cub bug drains me dry!

 

[rrjohnson]

Scott L.; Nice to see some real meat in this forum rather than a discussion about the weather or Cub Cadet design aesthetics.

I think the hydraulic cylinder on your 126 tractor is double acting and therefore does not create a vacuum in the reservoir. I think the fluid keeps a constant volume.

IH Irongard paint (acrylic enamel) will dry whether you use a hardener or not. If you read the back of the can the instructions don't say anything about using a hardener but I think their reducing ratio is too thick. I touch-up parts all the time with a small paint brush and with an airbrush. The airbrush is reduced and the brush is not. Both dry very quickly. I think the hardener makes the paint more brittle and works better if you're going to color-sand the finish for a hot-rod product. Otherwise you can't tell the difference. I defy anyone to tell me which of my parts on all my tractors have been mixed with a hardener. That being said, I usually mix in the hardener because of the process I know when I shoot paint. I mix my paint at 8 oz Irongard, 4 oz mid-temp reducer, and 1 oz hardener when I shoot with my HVLP gun. I don't use the hardener with the airbrush. Fisheye remover is not necessary if everything is prepared correctly and the outside temperature is in range. Keep in mind, painting opinions are like a$$holes. Everyone has one.

 

[sblunier]

Richard J.

You are correct in stating that the cylinder is double acting and volume won't change "much".....BUT, almost every hyd cylinder, except those with double ended rods for power steering applications, displace different amounts of fluid when retracted and extended due to the volume consumed by the rod withing the bore (retracted). This combined with the expansion of fluid due to heat makes a vented system desireable.

Not trying to be nit-picky, but there are very good reasons for vents.

Your comments about paint are very true. IH Ironguard will fade less over time with gloss hardner and dries somewhat more resistant to chemicals with hardner, but also becomes more brittle. When using acrylic enamel reducers, thinning ratio is more about how the individual gun sprays the paint than about the final result (within resonable boundries).

....and, you are 100% correct about the "everyone has one" comment!!!!!

 

[wshytle]

David-

No sealant on the head gasket. Proper torqueing is the secret here. I torque to 25 ft. lbs., run the engine until it reaches operating temp then retorque to 30 ft. lbs. after it has cooled. Letting it cool is pretty important because of the thermal properties of aluminum vs cast iron. It's ok to use sealant on the pan. I think some do and some don't. I usually just seal one side there like a valve cover on cars in the good ole days. I wouldn't suggest using any sealant on the points cover or the crank breather gaskets. I've never seen any used there.