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IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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STEVE BAUER - The B-series Onan has several problems. The intake manifold is two pieces, think the bottom & sides are diecast and the top is bonded on sheet steel. They tend to develope vacuum leaks between the dissimilar metals. Some people have removed & re-glued the top, my B48G got a whole new intake when it was rebuilt just before I bought it.

The governor is a poor design, a ten fingered plastic wheel pressed onto the cast iron camshaft driven gear spins five 3/8" dia steel balls as the flyweights to push out a conical steel plate to open the throttle on the carb to hold RPM. When the engine warms up, the plastic expands FIVE times as much as the gear, and the wheel slips, the governor thinks the engine is running too slow, increases throttle, finally over-speeds, and if it runs too fast, can break conn rods. The governor on my tractor is suffering from this, when I mow I have to keep my hand on the throttle when I'm mowing grass, when I get to the end of the grass and the mower pulls easier, the engine REALLY speeds up, and I have to pull the throttle down. But last fall when I was mowing the last time and mulching leaves, temps in the 20's & 30's, not 70's & 80's like when I mowed last summer, the governor worked pretty well.

I don't see how these engines were EVER used on welders & generators. The parts books show there's five 3/8" dia. steel balls used as governor weights, engines used on generators must have used ten balls.

If something ever happens to my Onan in my 982, it'll probably get a Kohler MAG 20 transplant. Small Engine Warehouse in Indiana used to make a kit to drop a 23 HP Briggs Vangard in the 982 but stopped. Last time I looked at their website they were asking for a donor tractor to drop an engine in, make a new kit, can't remember what engine they wanted to install.
 
How is the kit for the 982 any different than the 782 or other kits.....from the dash forward they should be the same.....wiring and driveshaft connector would be the only minor differences.

I have often though the same thing, and a 23hp Vangard kit from some 82 series or other similar machine would likely end up in one of my SGT's.
 
STEVE - I don't know why, but SEW makes a 18 HP B&S kit for a 682/782, and they still have the note from 8-15-11 wanting a donor 982 to drop a 23 HP Vangard into it and make a kit. And the picture they show on the "984" is STILL My 982 they borrowed from Jonathan Lucky's website.

My buddy bought one of their B&S 18 HP kits to drop into his O/T 317, cheaper than rebuilding his KT-17 again. I saw the first rebuild invoice, $1500+ back in the 1990's. The 682/782 kit is $1400.

I know there's been a 782 w/23 HP Vangard at most if not all of your PD's, "Too much HP is Almost always enough."
 
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Sheesh, IH made it look like the 1650 was a POS. Granted they were trying to sell the 782, I'll give them that. Dad had a deluxe seat on his 782 when he bought it; (it was used and this was about 15 years ago) but since it was slightly shot he took it off and replaced it with a POS kubota seat with no tears that likes to launch you off of it. I always enjoyed the old stock seat; it fit well and was more comfortable than what replaced it.
 
I've been buying GE4411 headlights from Ryder Fleet Products for years. Currently they list them for $4.59 each plus shipping.
 
Kraig/HarrySteve - nice posting of the comparisons between the 782 and the 1650 (and 682 and 1250) .....
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AND HERE I'VE BEEN TOUTING THE QL 1650 AS A MODERN TRACTOR!!!!
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While the twin cylinder 17 hp engine in the 782 would be soother than the 16 hp in the 1650, would the 16 hp engine be similar in power and perhaps have more torque? Which engine would I want pulling a moldboard plow? Maybe it doesn't matter between the two.

I should think the 16 hp would be easier to rebuild? Kind of like the cast iron single cylinder engine and the simplicity of it.

Was there a need for a larger diameter cooling fan or was the 82 series frame wider in that area and why not put-in a larger cooling fan.

Did the later QL models have two flex couplings at the driveshaft ends?

I like the wider engine bay of the 782. One of the killers IMHO of these old iron tractors (regardless of brand) is potential repower. Some of my other color tractors make great platforms for Honda or Briggs or even Kohler Command repowers. I think the 82 series would be as well - if you want to buy and install a new engine.

Not sure what to make of the hydro lever argument or the hydro cylinder argument.

Tail lights really lend themselves to breakage on the 1650.

Plowing snow last week - reinforced my preference for the hydro fwd/reverse lever to be on the right hand side and my left hand planted on the steering wheel. It's just what I'm use to. Not crazy about the same on my 109 - but also prefer the lift lever on the right side too for the same reasons. One thing I like about the lift lever on the right side with the QL tractors is it's out and away from the steering wheel. Very easy to reach.

Not sure how the cam stop on the 82 series is different than the QL, but I typically mow full up position with all my tractors. Not sure why these old iron tractors did not have a higher cutting height - after all out on the farm, not everything one mows needs to look like a putting green. Sometimes you just want to raise the mower and mow down the garden.

Maybe I need to get me one of these new fancy RED tractors and see for myself....
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I still have the plastic bushing on the steering column on my 1650. number 941-3023 is IH-376480-R1 the same plastic bushing or is this the metal replacement. Is there a flanged bushing I can get any where or do I have to buy one from an IH dealer.
 
Keith- My model IH 72 has a nice brass bushing, with a 90* grease fitting instead of the factory plastic piece. I assume it was made off a lathe,...pretty nice idea. Haven't gotten around to trying it out yet, but with plans for an Case/IH wheel spinner, I don't believe we're in for any tuff surprises.
 

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