Archive through February 03, 2013

[drglinski]

Terry D-

I took the same burnt out bulb to my local O'Reilly's and they had one for sale, same GE part number and all. They asked me if it went in an old car (I live near the motor city so that's believable) but I told them it was going in an old garden tractor, and had a hard time believing me.

 

[wshytle]

Don-

You have two markings on the side of the flywheel, one is T and the other is S. Set your timing to the S mark (center the mark beside the S in the hole). The T is for TDC and the S is for spark.

A trick I use is I put the S mark in the hole then go around (to the left or points side of tractor) and make two small marks, one on the flywheel screen and the other on the flywheel shroud right in line with and beside each other. That way you don't have to keep going around the tractor and look in the hole. When the marks are in line you know the S mark is centered.

 

[rfuller]

Did some research this weekend on my bearing spindle service kit I purchased used. I found an MTD repair manual on the internet. It said the lips seals are suppose to be installed a certain way. in the up direction. Also sounded like one was suppose to be reversed so hydrualic lock does not accure. I have no idea what this is.

Also, Found out one of the bearing cups have a nick in it. The manual said how to check them but did not say anything about removeal or replacement. Anyone know how to get these out of the housing for replacement?

Thanks,

Rob

 

[mfrade]

Paul F., always up to something eh?!?! That looks great! How long did it take to build?

 

[rrschmitt]

Dominic C,

Sometimes when you install new breaker points, they can can have an invisible oxide layer that will prevent them from making electrical contact when in the closed position. With the points in the closed position, take a thin flat metal file (a fingernail file will work) and slide it between the points back and forth a half dozen times or so to remove any oxide layer that may have formed. Swab them clean with a Q-tip dipped in alchol or carb cleaner to remove and filings. Also verify that you have the condensor on the neg (-) terminal on your coil (same side as the wire to your breaker points). Are you using a voltmeter when you are measuring 12 volts at the pos (+) side of the terminal? You should have 12 volts at the positive terminal both when the ignition switch is in the on position and while cracking the engine over the the start position. Sometimes the switch will internally go bad and not provide 12 volts to the coil in the starting position. Harry's suggestion about running a jumper wire directly from the battery to the pos (+) terminal of the coil will help you quickly determine whether or not the ignition switch is the source your problem.

 

[dtanner]

This 125 engine is getting me pissed.I have replaced the points again and set them .020 at the s mark . I installed point saver as per the destructions. I should see a break where the points close but I don`t

. I have replace the coil and points wire,plug and plug wire.Using a point saver I should see the light go out when the points are closed. Not seeing that. I have replace everything in the carb ,new switch and solenoid .points push rod is new

 

[rmcshane]

Don- Are you 100 percent positive that you have the cam and the crank marks lined up inside the engine? If they are a few teeth off then the spark will be advanced/retarted to what you have it set at. It's also an easy mistake to make since the teeth are at an angle.

 

[dtanner]

Ryan McShane

I was not sure and posted this picture asking if this was the tooth that the cam has to be timed with . I think Kraig told me It was correct to time the came in that slot.


I find the spark real weak that I do get.There is no blue spark here .

 

[kmcconaughey]

Don, it was NOT me...

 

[rmcshane]

Don, I'd say that's the right mark...its the one I've always used...

I've has similar problems with my first tractor I ever rebuilt, my 105. I rebuilt it right down to every detail in the book, drop the engine back in the tractor, and attempt to start it. New carb, new points, wire, plug, condenser, etc...would not run at all. I thought I majorly screwed something up. Turns out the brand new Champion spark plug I bought wouldn't fire under compression. Changed that and it fired right up.

As far as the points, I'd keep them at .020 for now, I've never had that rule fail me yet. Your engine will run on that...maybe not perfect, but it should run.

If you have weak spark, check your wiring. Did you get a new wiring harness? Maybe try a jumper wire from the coil to the battery direct and check spark.

Another thing, with the key off, take your thumb and gently pull the points open and let them "snap" shut...as strange as it sounds it has helped me countless times with weak spark. Sometimes things get a little dusty down there in the points area and need to be vibrated around

I'm probably no help other than a quick two or three minutes of reading about things you probably already knew

 

[dtanner]

Kraig

I stand corrected, It was you friend Art A https://www.ihcubcadet.com/forum/messages/106/221690.html

I just had to find it .lol anything to get me away from the 125 when I`am having an issue I can`t find why "WHY".

Ryan McShane

well I just got a new pin and points out of the package and installed them and still no go.I think the points have to close at the S mark to get the coil to fire ? I just can`t see setting the point gap at 20 at the "s" mark be cause I get a no fire.I noticed that the points bracket will slide up and down

.l Don`t get enuf spark to use the timing light .

and Charlie is to busy to answer the phone. That call to hime cost some $$ , I need a phone plan lol.

 

[dfrisk]

DON - The spark occurs when the points first open.

I'd wipe the points contacts with a lint-free rag sprayed with Brake-Clean like RON Schmitt said. They either oxidize during storage or they have a chemical protectant on them. Sliding a piece of cardboard between them might help too.

It only takes a couple minutes to rewire the igntion back to points, coil & condesor from the Points Saver. You might want to try that. I really don't think there's anyhing wrong with the Points-Saver.

 

[hydroharry]

Don T - you're right. The points should "just open" at the S mark for the coil to fire. If you are referring to a weak spark at the points, that is also correct. Your Point Saver provides a weak spark to the points to "save" them, thus the name Point Saver, but it allows the coil to fire the appropriate charge to your spark plug so it fires at normal spark.

Now, I'm at a loss to understand. This engine was running the other day - and now you've installed the Point Saver and it won't run? I fear you may not have followed David Kirk's instructions and possibly burnt out the Point Saver, or you don't have a good ground. Suggest you recheck your grounding.

 

[pfunk]

Mike F. Thanks for the comments. I don't know how long it took to build, Us old, retired guys don't keep track of our time. We just work on stuff when we feel like it!!!!

 

[tlbryant]

Hello everyone. I am new to the site and new to the cub cadet scene. I have a cub cadet 128 I am in the process of tearing down to restore. I am bagging and tagging taking photos the whole nine. I am just poking around in the main forum here to see if anyone has rebuilt a 128 before and if they had any tips. I have a thread in the restoration and refurbish only page of the forum called GROUND UP RESTO 128. Check it out and leave me some comments and advice. My next project is going to be either an Original, 70, or a 100. I am currently looking for good manuals that may have in depth detail, pics, parts manual would be great. I found one on Messicks.com but it seemed kinda high. Anyway let me know what you can. Thanks and happy wrenching......

 

[jbaker]

Travis, your in the right spot. Sponsers at the top sell manuals try Binder Books they have great ones, also at the bottom of the home page here MANUALS topic there is a free download of the manuals.

Lets see some pictures

 

[tlbryant]

I am having a hard time figuring out how to put some pics up...I get to where I am supposed to be I get my pic press upload and nothing happens. One time it said the image was too large and asked me to change the size. I dont know how to do that either. I am fabricator not a darn computer tech...LOL

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell
Just what would happen if I tried to set the points on the wrong stroke ?

 

[hydroharry]

Travis - hey everyone of us on here is a computer tech. Suggest you try using a smaller camera to get small pics (hehehe - I shouldn't a said that - it is frustrating

. Kraig McConaughey, Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos, has provided help in the the past on these situations, and usually has suggestions on down-sizing your pic files so they fit. For the longest time when I down sized mine the pic was so small you could hardly see it when I posted it - so many of us have experienced your frustration, just don't give up. Also, I see Jeff mentioned the "Manuals" thread on the first page of the Forum. It's the best source to see and download the manuals if that will work for you. Otherwise, you'll have to get printed paper copies from one of the sponsors or other sources. I'd definitely get the IH Operator and Service Manuals to start with, and maybe the Kohler K Service Manual as well. In my view these are a "must have" for a restoration. I'm not faimilar with other books out there that would be useful or good for a restoration. I thought most were more for historical data and details.

Kraig, Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - can you possible help out a new member here with his photo sizing efforts?

Don T - you're asking the wrong guy. I guess what you're saying is you may set the points so the S on the flywheel is off 180 degrees and the coil fires. I don't think it's possible to do this.

 

[lpalma]

Nice crawler Paul.

Harry the hydro.
I tried the rod through the holes on my 123 and yes indeed it is in the way of the pto belt.The pulley is not in the way.I am sure you could use another way to get a fastener in those holes and still attach the arms to it from the thrower.

As for the 86-1650 tailight lenses.I found a new set that say refleto light on them instead of bargman...but one is chipped.