Sorry about that, I notice the photo with the starter and coil and figured it was about spark issue. I don't think i'm in the correct page to post my No spark issue. I will open a new discussion in the "IH Cadet lawn tractors" section.
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Archive through February 03, 2013
- Thread starter dcaputo
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
No Spark!
Hi everyone, i have an issue i can't solve. My 1450 only runs in winter to blow snow, i took it out and it ran for a while and the stopped. I removed the quite line covers and left them off because i figured it was overheating. I would try it again in 20-30 min and would run again. I change the spark plug and seemed fine then it stopped and never had a spark again. Since i then i changed the coil, condenser, spark plug and break. Still no spark so i moved to the break pedal safety switch and bypassed it with no luck on the issue. Is there anything i missed ? i did get a new coil, i changed it in at -20 and at first put the - and + backwards then fixed flipped them. I have 12v on the coil(+) and engine(-). I also made sure the spark plug wire was good. When i changed the break i did it indoors and gapped it at 020 and cleaned the area well (no oil/ice). I did not put the cover on yet because i want to make sure it starts first.
Thanks for your input
Hi everyone, i have an issue i can't solve. My 1450 only runs in winter to blow snow, i took it out and it ran for a while and the stopped. I removed the quite line covers and left them off because i figured it was overheating. I would try it again in 20-30 min and would run again. I change the spark plug and seemed fine then it stopped and never had a spark again. Since i then i changed the coil, condenser, spark plug and break. Still no spark so i moved to the break pedal safety switch and bypassed it with no luck on the issue. Is there anything i missed ? i did get a new coil, i changed it in at -20 and at first put the - and + backwards then fixed flipped them. I have 12v on the coil(+) and engine(-). I also made sure the spark plug wire was good. When i changed the break i did it indoors and gapped it at 020 and cleaned the area well (no oil/ice). I did not put the cover on yet because i want to make sure it starts first.
Thanks for your input
Dominic C
Yes,your on the right page.
Yes,your on the right page.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Dominic - Mike E had a good suggestion. You may be able to measure voltage with the key switch on but when turned to start/crank you may not have voltage. You could try jump starting direct to the positive/hot side of the starter with the key in the on position. If it does start and run then most likely your key switch is bad.
Lewis Do-Da - I don't have a narrow frame to check verify the frame holes and I don't have a thrower. I'm working from memory and pictures. However, I believe you have a narrow frame and could look at that front hole. If you tried to slide a rod across doesn't it conflict even hit the basket pulley for the S/G belt? Best I can view from the earlier pics is that it would hit the PTO clutch assembly itself, if not the belt.
Have you got a 1/2 rod you could slide thru and take a pic for us?
Lewis Do-Da - I don't have a narrow frame to check verify the frame holes and I don't have a thrower. I'm working from memory and pictures. However, I believe you have a narrow frame and could look at that front hole. If you tried to slide a rod across doesn't it conflict even hit the basket pulley for the S/G belt? Best I can view from the earlier pics is that it would hit the PTO clutch assembly itself, if not the belt.
Have you got a 1/2 rod you could slide thru and take a pic for us?
That is correct i place the key in the start position and it does give me 12v on the (+) of coil and the (-) to the engine / coil mount bracket NOT on the (-) coil/break point and condenser. So that would make the ignition switch good correct?}
Dominic,
Under Edit: Yes, check to see if you have 12 volts at the coil with the starter cranking. And Harry has a work around to bypass that part of the ignition switch if it is bad.
So you have 12 volts at the + side of the coil with the key in the Run and the Cranking (Starting) positions? If so, all that is left is the Coil, Breaker Points, Condenser, Spark Plug and the wires.
How are you testing to find "no spark"?
Can you check for continuity between:
1. coil and breaker points
2. breaker points and ground (better yet neg (-) battery)
3. breaker points and condenser
4. condenser and ground
5. coil to spark plug wire
Under Edit: Yes, check to see if you have 12 volts at the coil with the starter cranking. And Harry has a work around to bypass that part of the ignition switch if it is bad.
So you have 12 volts at the + side of the coil with the key in the Run and the Cranking (Starting) positions? If so, all that is left is the Coil, Breaker Points, Condenser, Spark Plug and the wires.
How are you testing to find "no spark"?
Can you check for continuity between:
1. coil and breaker points
2. breaker points and ground (better yet neg (-) battery)
3. breaker points and condenser
4. condenser and ground
5. coil to spark plug wire
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Tom,
SGT rim backspacing and rim width photo.
I found this on my home computer, I had saved it for reference way back when. SGT rim showing difference in back spacing and confirming 8.5" rim width (SGT centers are basically in the same plane as the rear bead).
SGT rim backspacing and rim width photo.
I found this on my home computer, I had saved it for reference way back when. SGT rim showing difference in back spacing and confirming 8.5" rim width (SGT centers are basically in the same plane as the rear bead).
sblunier
Well-known member
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- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Just returned home from the St. Louis Toy Show. Saw some old toy tractor and L&G friends and found a few items to bring back for my collecton. Talked to Kate G. from L&G Collector magazine for a while and saw some photos of a VERY NICE 4wd Versitle 935 made out of 2 Case GT's. Picked up some nice old literature as well (including some very early 806 testing photos in an old IH magazine that show 560 grills installed...corporate spies......).....fun weekend!!!!
- Joined
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- 812
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- Binder 1650
1650 quick update:
Cleaned and put the oil pan on the engine - loosely (debating if I should pull it and put some kind of gasket sealer on), tipped the engine up, pulled the head for a cylinder/carbon build-up check. Cylinder looks good to me and there was some carbon build-up, mostly flaky (which I've never seen - mostly hard/crusty stuff). I'll clean that up, put a new head gasket on and I'll be getting closer to putting the engine back in the tractor.
Other things to do - give the front axle clevis a bit of a squeeze, adjust the hydro lift lever position - as it leans to far forward for my liking, figure out why the hydro forward/reverse lever seems stuck, install a new hydro fan on the drive shaft.
I've also got a 50 inch CCC deck that I'm going to swap out the pulley and give it a try with this tractor.
Cleaned and put the oil pan on the engine - loosely (debating if I should pull it and put some kind of gasket sealer on), tipped the engine up, pulled the head for a cylinder/carbon build-up check. Cylinder looks good to me and there was some carbon build-up, mostly flaky (which I've never seen - mostly hard/crusty stuff). I'll clean that up, put a new head gasket on and I'll be getting closer to putting the engine back in the tractor.
Other things to do - give the front axle clevis a bit of a squeeze, adjust the hydro lift lever position - as it leans to far forward for my liking, figure out why the hydro forward/reverse lever seems stuck, install a new hydro fan on the drive shaft.
I've also got a 50 inch CCC deck that I'm going to swap out the pulley and give it a try with this tractor.
Terry D.
I have 4 147's.
One has the GE 4411 and the others have the GE4411-1.
I think it depends on which headlight harness was attached at the time or even after it left the factory.
I have 4 147's.
One has the GE 4411 and the others have the GE4411-1.
I think it depends on which headlight harness was attached at the time or even after it left the factory.
I thought I had my winter project finished and ready to wait for warm weather for painting.
But, I had it out driving it around when there was a pop, and I lost steering on the left side.
I thought I’d just make right turns and get it back into the barn. But there was another pop and the left steering was gone as well. In case someone doesn’t recognize the piece, that’s the bracket that holds the brake caliper. I’ve got some cast iron ones that I’ll replace the aluminum with and hopefully it will hold. Then back into the barn until the weather is warm enough to paint.
But, I had it out driving it around when there was a pop, and I lost steering on the left side.
I thought I’d just make right turns and get it back into the barn. But there was another pop and the left steering was gone as well. In case someone doesn’t recognize the piece, that’s the bracket that holds the brake caliper. I’ve got some cast iron ones that I’ll replace the aluminum with and hopefully it will hold. Then back into the barn until the weather is warm enough to paint.
Paul E. Funk
I wish I had some of your skills.
That looks great , wish I had one .
Ok ,what do you all use to set the points on your cubs. Do you used TDC or any other position.I`am having a hard time getting my 125 timed. I think I will try another coil because it will only run for a few minutes and stop.
I wish I had some of your skills.
That looks great , wish I had one .
Ok ,what do you all use to set the points on your cubs. Do you used TDC or any other position.I`am having a hard time getting my 125 timed. I think I will try another coil because it will only run for a few minutes and stop.
Paul, very cool project! Bummer about the setbacks but I guess it's good that they happen before the painting.
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