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Archive through December 14, 2017

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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On the 10/13 tooth starter question- It does make a difference. A few years ago I picked up a 1450 for parts. The PO said it ran good but the starter went out so he put a new starter on it and then it wouldn't even turn over so he gave up. When I tried to start it the bendix banged into the flywheel and didn't engage. When I pulled it, it was a 13 tooth so I put a 10 tooth on I had laying around and it meshed with the flywheel fine. I did some checking on the Kohler engines site and found a serial number break for starters. Below engine #2333600013 use 4509811 (old #4509806) and after use 4509811S. They don't say how many teeth each one has.
 
After some more searching it seems that others are interchanging 10 and 13 tooth starters without a problem. There must be a difference in the mounting plate to shaft centerline to compensate for the difference in gear diameters. I don't know why the 13 tooth I took off the parts tractor didn't work on the k321, it fit fine on the 1650
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Lew - do you know when Bargman took over from REFLECT-O-LITE?

Ed T - thanks for the info on the 10 and 13 tooth starter. It would seem there must be a difference between the ring-gear on the flywheel even tho the parts look-up doesn't show it.
 
Hi friends, I recently posted a question about the NF Hydraulic lift system that I am working on. I have a couple of further questions. I got everything assembled, and put a quart of hydro fluid in reservoir. I was worried about the ram leaking due to it's age, but surprisingly it did really well and doesn't seem to leak. Keep in mind that the system is complete, but not mounted on the tractor. I have it mounted in my bench vise and have been spinning it by hand and with a drill. My main question, is is normal to have a little seepage around the pump shaft? I put in two new National Seal 342805 seals (two due to their thin profile) and I made sure the return oil hole near the shaft was open and clear. If I just cycle the cylinder from one end to the other, things seem okay, but if I reach the end of the travel and have the handle still open, either direction, I get a leak, more like a weep, around the pump shaft. Common sense would tell me just to not leave the handle/valve open to prevent that, but I was just wondering if there might be a bigger leak if I get the unit installed and put under pressure. I'm just trying to work out any problems beforehand. I thought about actually making the pump gasket a three unit affair. One 342805 seal first, a 112 Buna gasket that I use for Coleman lantern fuel cap gaskets (my other hobby) and then another 342805 seal. I think all three would fit in the pump housing and would add another layer of seal. I would post a picture of my assembly but I read through the instructions and go sort of lost. Can I just attach a low resolution picture using the Upload Attachment tab below? thanks in advance for the assistance.
 
I appreciate the input on number of teeth for my 1650. Am I better off buying a new one or a used one? In leaning towards used new one.
 
Well, I got the 127 running today. I picked up a new battery, 320cc instead of 240cc. Figured I could use all I can get with as hard as it was turning over.

It still cranked hard, but realized it was getting no fuel. It still has all the old fuel line, plug, everything from when I brought it home. I replaced the fuel line and got fuel to the carb. I then removed the bolts from the coupler shaft and it spun over and fired right up! I left it warm up some and then shut it down and put the bolts back in the driveshaft coupler. It then restarted and ran great. I aired up the rear tires and was able to drive it around the driveway. WOW..does that steering work smooth!!! I can't wait to rebuild my 149.

I need to get a new positive cable for the battery as this one is a bit short and if I try to put the hold down clamp bracket I think it might try to short out the positive cable! Yikes. The battery hold down clamp is kinda unique, I think it must hold onto the water caps? It has little fingers on the sides and they seem to fit the lids just right. I've never seen a factory picture so I'm just guessing.

There is also some latches hanging on the side of the battery box which I have no clue as to their purpose.

Pretty happy with it overall. I might call on that 42" THROWER I saw the other day on Craigslist and see if it is still available and what working condition it is. It did have the lift rod and twist rod(with eyebolt holder).
 
Larry, The latches are to hold the hood down. There should be a little tab in the inside lower edge of the hood on each side they hook over. You may have to turn the battery around so the terminals are in the rear to gain clearance for the hold down. It's just a little piece of bent sheet stock, correct? w/a hole in each end where it's kinda bent flat?

I really did not plan on buying anything at this auction today. It's so handy now we have a brand new auction house just a block down the street!!

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