Archive through December 10, 2004

[tcbusch]

Bryan,
Maybe I could just buy a 4?


Dave,
The pump maybe little but it works great. Its a high rpm unit. I was looking through the archives and notice you fabricating a foot operated hyrdo control. Hows that working? Looks like you were going to use your heel for reverse. A forward and reverse on the dash board with a foot operated accelerator would be easier to drive, I would think. Sort of like driving a forklift. Maybe I'll think about how to rig the linkage up to do that some day (soon if it doesnt snow). Have you heard of anyone else with a foot operated system? How did they do it?
Still bored waiting for it to snow!

(Message edited by tcbusch on December 13, 2004)

 

[dkamp]

Hi Terry!

Yep- it's heel-and-toe operation at the moment- I'm working on some ergonomic improvements that'll make it a simple foot-pedal, so one needn't pick up the foot to make the change from F to R... I'm also adding a locking mechanism to hold it in the N position when starting or not-in-service.

There's a few guys that have done foot-controls, some integrated both console and foot, using a variety of techniques. I purposely left it all as foot-control (no hands) to improve operating efficiency. Mine is simple:
- Left foot for speed and direction (works SLICK!)
- Right hand for steering
- Left hand for loader lift and dump
- Right foot for independant brakes.

With power steering and foot shift, it's an absolute dream to maneuver and operate. Having a second lever takes away one hand, and there's no real need to 'shift' direction... just slows everything down. I'll bring it to a Plow Day, and let everybody take it for a spin, exercise their scrutiny, and do the armchair-quarterback thing. My dollar says there'll be plenty more smiles than scorn, but in the end, I really don't care what anybody else thinks- I built it for me. If I don't like it, I'll change it... if someone else likes it, and wants to copy it, I'll give 'em all the assistance they request. If they improve on mine, I'll probably copy 'em back. Unlike some people, I'm not the least bit afraid about getting letters from lawyers!

 

[bmcmeen]

Terry B. -

With a q-tip and an appropriate solvent (trichloreth-blah-blah-blah comes to mind, barely, this morning) you can "erase" the 4, then dry transfer a 4 on there. You'd have to hit it with clear cuz I don't think a dry transfer will stand up to gas.

Dave K2 -

Don't break yer arm there man...

I think you know exactly what we mean by lawyers letters. I highly doubt you'll have to steal back any ideas from MTD...

 

[kweaver]

Dave did you leave the original brake lock on it ? Mine kicks into N when I hit the brake pedal (if you ease off your foot) then I can lock it there. I didn't use dampners on mine 'cause ya can't throw gravels or burn rubber on concrete with'em ! My pedal is on a rocker shaft so you don't have to move your foot from one pedal to the other like on my 2166 (hate that setup!). We need to work together on something I started 4 years ago ...

My grass is white , what gives ????????
Go out to the shop @ 11am monday and come out @ 6:05am tuesday and the world has changed colors and got COLD!

 

[tcbusch]

Kweaver and Dave,
Do you have pictures of you setup?

(Message edited by tcbusch on December 14, 2004)

 

[dkamp]

Ken- I don't have any brakes on it right now, but will be rigging it with independant brakes eventually. I won't have it set to kick the hydro to N, as that would preclude using 'em for turning-assistance... I wanna be able to crank that baby around!

I originally rigged mine for heel-toe because it was the only way to get the full 50-degrees (or so) arc with the footboards in place... but I've nixed the footboards. One of these days (when I have the time) I'll yank the pedal, and replace it with a flat plate, so no heel-toe switching is required. I've got a damper in there, and a centering-spring, but they won't prevent 'ya from stabbing it hard and ripping pavement, it's just enough damping and centering so that the assembly doesn't oscillate when it's sitting still, and so that you need to be intentional about using the foot pedal. The linkage is slightly progressive, so it's actually very easy to use as-is... but I need to get the foot-placement surface down about 3/4" to make it easier on the ergonomics.

The thing about patents, Bryan, is that they're only viable cases when the defendant is manufacturing and selling-for-profit. It's the blood-and-turnips rule. First lesson I ever got from my dad, was that anybody can sue anybody for anything, and anybody can send letters. More often, the primary fruition of threats and letters is that the recipient is intimidated by the formality, not understanding of the legality.

Modifying old stuff, and incorporating new methods in old equipment for non-production, personal use are essentially exempt by being a turnip- if you're not making 'em en masse and re-selling them for profit, they really can't gripe.

But I think your original note was more down the lines of electronically re-publishing service manual content. It's not necessarily against copywright to re-publish content of technical manuals, but there are details that must be attended to, and always risks. A fair dose of CYA and knowing the ropes solves that problem.

 

[bmcmeen]

Dave K2 -

Wow, is there anything you DON'T know?

So it's OK for me to photocopy all the manuals and hand them out at Plow Day as long as I do it for free?

 

[dkamp]

Terry- yeah, some pictures of mine are in the archives... but they're rough, and I shot them for personal reference, not for posting, so the perspective isn't so great. I really need to re-shoot them once I get the pedal relocation done... but wont' do that 'till after I get home...

But it might be sooner than every other project... there's a new set'a tires showing up on my back patio tomorrow... 26-12-12 Titans in back, and 20-10.00-8 Super Lugs in front, and the fronts will come on 5-bolt wheels... and there's 17 gallons of Propylene Glycol tucked away in the boathouse... so I'll be havin' a wrench-a-thon at about 3am Friday Night... mebbie I'll get that pedal done then, too!

 

[jgeorg]

Terry, here's how I did the foot control about 15 years ago. Pretty simple, just turn the exsisting rod 90 dregrees. Drill a hole in the frame for it to stick out and bolt it to the left frame. I welded a bar to extend and add some more movement to tie the linkage to. The extra bends were just done when I added the hydraulics to it. Find some sort of plate for your foot and bolt it to the rod. I could never go back to the hand lever.

John

 

[jgeorg]

Another picture showing the control.

John

 

[jvangor]

hi,my name if jeff, and i am new here, i just wnated to introduce myself, and i am a cub cadet dealer in ohio, if i could be of some assitance to anyone i will do my best, i do have one small question, the small looking IH suitcase weights, where can i get those? i have a totaly restored 108,and im working on a model 86 right now,im actually shooting the primer today. thank you, and this seems to be a great site about cub cadets}

 

[bmcmeen]

Jeff V. -

Welcome!

The small suitcase weights are from Midwest Super Cub - you'll have to supply you're own <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> logos, though. Folks have milled their own logo or have used decals.

<font size="-2">IIRC, MSC got frightened by a letter and thus doesn't sell them with the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> logo on them

</font>

 

[dfrisk]

JEFF V. - Do a search on "MIDWEST SUPERCUB" Or look around here and there's hyperlinks. Think the Pulling forum has one. MWSC is located around Davenport, Iowa.... freight to ship those weights might get kinda pricey.... Better plan a mid-western winter vacation!

 

[zfriedman]

Busy week, I still exsist, and the tractor still don't run, but thats my fault, I didn't get a chance to touch it.

I should be gettin a new (used) wiring harness in the mail today or tommorow, and I don't think I'll have trouble installing that once its in my hands.

The big problem I have seemed to encounter is that the S/G no longer spins. I'm not talking about with a key or through the solenoid or whatever, I'm talking about hooking the battery right up to the S/G. It simply doesn't spin at all. Did I kill it? I didn't keep it running for more than 7-10 seconds at a time. Was it on its death march already? I read up on S/Gs' and I understand it on paper, but not quite so much in my hands. For those who don't remember, the S/G used to work just fine.

Today it actually got down to 32. I was starting to think I had just slept through winter and didn't remember any of it.

 

[pvanbenschoten]

Thanks to several people here and some private emails, I was able to get the pinion shaft out of the electric lift. The bearing that holds it in place needs to be replaced. There was a lot of play before pulling on the shaft and now the ball bearings are scattered on the floor!

New parts have been ordered (from a site advertising here)

I made the mistake of removing the end plate with the bushings from the motor. The manual has a specail note NOT to do that ! I read that too late. It will be fun getting it all back together.

Thanks again
Paul

 

[babrams]

Good Day Fellas!
Quick question; For a CC with rear mechanical pto,
What size are the locator pins for the rear plate and pto outer flange?
Are they necessary?

 

[dmcnair]

Dave K. and others,
I measured the clearance and guessed that the 23 X 10.5-12 Carlisle Super Lugs would fit under the fenders and have side clearance when mounted on my 124 stock rims. I bought them and had them mounted today. Bolted the wheels back on and away I go. I hope these do the trick trying to motor through the wet clay (Texas Teflon) while dragging a scraper blade or pulling a wagon load of sand. They look great too, much more tractor like than the stock BFG turf treads. If I can figure out how to post a picture, I will get one posted with the new tires. Next step will be to purchase some wheel weights to make these big tires bite the dirt. Thanks for the advice that several of you veteran CC owners provided.
David in Dayton, Texas

(Message edited by dmcnair on December 14, 2004)

 

[ddillon]

Can anyone help with a carb question? What is the correct part number for a #30 on a K321? Thank You

 

[tcbusch]

Paul,
You shouldn't have taken the end plate off of the motor. Go bang your head against the wall for a minute.................

OK now that you are done doing that.... Try this.
Go get two small pieces of waxed dental floss about 20 inches each. This works best if you ask a friend to help. Take one piece and drape it over the face of the brush. The face being the part that touches the armature. Now gently pull on the floss to pull the brush into the brush holder. This will retract the brush. Do the same thing to the other brush to push it in too. Now with your third hand side the cover over the armature. Finally slide the floss out of the motor. I used waxed floss so it would slide easier and it wouldn't break.
Isn't that simple?

BTW, I am speaking from experience.

 

[digger]

David D,
Since you dint specify if you wanted the number for a 149/147 or a 1450.
147/149- KH-47-853-30
1450- KH-47-853-20