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Archive through December 10, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Does anyone hnow of saome link to purchase accessories such as snow cabs etc. for new models
 
Paul check the sponsors above , they'd be the best bet
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some are MTD Cub Dealers !
 
Ken,looks like since ya aren't getting any service from the cops,maybe you don't need to pay any taxes either (grin) Too bad you have some bad "actors" in your neighborhood. Be careful!! As far as Charlie,yupper,he must be getting slow like molasses with the cold (heheheh)
 
Glen> that was no friend!!!! Better send him a lump of coal for Christmas,he was BAD!
Terry,that is a cool Cub hauler ya got there.
 
Working on the new 147,
The PTO bearing had spun on the drive shaft. Thats why I got the 147 so cheap. While the engine was running, I used my die grinder with a drum sanding attachment to straighten the shaft. I also used a caliper to make sure the shaft was straight. I used a piece of .016" brass shim stock and a tapped the old bearing on to make the shim mold itself to the shaft, I didn't want to destroy the new bearing. After a half dozen attempts I was ready to use the new bearing. The bearing is now on tight with no binding. It also looks very true, although I don't think a little wobble would have mattered. Finally I locked down the collar, and I am good to go.

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I was wondering about the deck. The bottom pulley is smaller than the other 147 deck. Also the back of the deck has a double bend to make the radius. This deck is 50 inches and the other one is 48. Is this a newer or older design?

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I can believe someone would butcher this tractor so bad! just look at this picture.
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Someone put a 12hp tank on my 14hp tractor!
 
I promised someone I would post pictures of my valves and pump mounting on the on armed bandit. I made an L bracket and bolted it to the side of the frame. Then I mounted the pump L bracket to that. I run the belt more loose then snug to prevent side loading on the drive shaft.
There are 3 valves. One for attachment raise and lower, one for the bucket boom raise and lower, and one for the bucket dump.
Does anyone have a side picture or drawing of the drive shaft pulley?
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Terry,
I believe your old deck is a model 481 and your new deck is a model 482. The 481 was a pin-on deck made for the 1X2,3 series but could be easily converted to the quick attach setup. The main difference is that they take different blades. As far as the fuel tank, I think the 12 & 14hp took the same tank so maybe the P.O. had to replace the tank for some reason.
 
Geez!
It's like PD all over again up this way!

SO FAR TODAY...WIND GUSTS ACROSS THE AREA MOSTLY RANGED FROM 40
TO 50 MPH. HIGHER GUSTS HAVE HAVE REPORTED...INCLUDING 58 MPH IN
ROCHESTER...54 MPH IN AUSTIN AND FOUR CORNERS...AND 52 IN MONONA AND
CHARLES CITY.
 
Charlie,
Its a good thing I filled my tires with liquid lead or my cub would have tipped over!
 
I guess I should have looked at my new owners manual before asking.
Looks like I've got a 48 inch and a 42 inch deck. The 48 inch deck has a smaller pulley.
Its also built a little differently.
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(Message edited by tcbusch on December 12, 2004)
 
Terry...."on the 48"deck,a special spindle drive system was used.each spindle from left to right, was driven progressively faster to help discharge cut material and allow faster mowing speeds".....(as written by k.updike in his book)
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Terry-

Nice adapt-and-overcome on the PTO bearing... that gives new meaning to the term 'Engine Lathe'... :)

Like that 3-section valve on the Bandit... your hydraulic pump mount looks a little... er... functional... as you noted, side-load on the pump shaft IS important, as they're not made to take much, if any... going to larger sheaves on BOTH sides will increase power transmission ability WITHOUT raising the amount of overhung load (belt tension). Another way is to use a belt-drive that provides positive drive without tension at all... that's why I did toothed-belt. Tastes great, less filling!

Travis- Night plowing sounds like a lotta fun, but dunno how long Nick would be able to hang on...
 
Hey guys, I have gone to great lengths to get all the rattles out of my 1250. I can not seem to get the muffler box to stop rattling though. It is louder than the engine. Is there a way to make this part not rattle or is it ok to run the tractor with this box removed? I was thinking of welding some steel rod to it as a strenghtener. Any suggestions? Thanks, Paul
 
Paul B2 -

It's 30 years old, shouldn't you expect a few rattles?
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Other than purchasing a brand new box, there's not a lot you can do. A muffler crutch from Kirk Engines can help keep things together, so can fitting a length of split hose over the side panel spring.

Oh, wait, you don't have side panels! Guess what, not only do they help with cooling, they help with keeping the noise down!

Here again, that box is there for a reason. Removing it will (a) not allow things to cool properly and (b) probably melt your headlights
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Need to know the correct drive shaft length for a 122 with a creeper gear. Appreciate any help.
 
OK, it has rained for a week. Have gotten screwed out of a lot of snow. Seems like every time I am ready it misses us.
With any luck we will see a plowday next year. Looks like we are packing everything and going back to Missouri. Anyone want to try out $400 per month in property taxes??????
 
Bill G. -

Do you have the original driveshaft? Look at the shaft - there's a score mark where you need to cut it for a creeper.
 

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