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Archive through December 01, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Only four inches?? We got 8 here in central WI and then it changed to sleet. The weather clown says maybe freezing rain yet tonight. I cleaned out the end of the driveway so the wife could get to work, the city left us a two foot pile with the plow. I'll wont plow the neighbor hood till the am when I can take the freezing rain off along with the snow and sleet. I get to walk yet the blower still isn't on the 1250.
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Well, Just got in from cubbin the drive the 122 ran great
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Now for the bad news ... I ran the gas tank empty. And the only gas I had was a one gallon jug my wife use for her push mower (off topic), That she left in the middle of the yard for a couple of rainy months this fall
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Now my carb is all froze up. Now its back in the heated garage till morning. Just cant win !!! Terry B nofair having a cab on your cub... get out their and get some snow in your face
 
Grrr... Didn't get as much snow here as the weather guessers said. Maybe 4-5"... Maybe.....

Here's an off season question.. I got this from a very good friend today. It's a cable burying blade from a Ditch Witch type of machine.
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The cable or wire you're trying to bury goes in here at the top of the blade... (probably after you've removed all of the crap from inside the cable-channel...LOL!)
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...and comes out here at the bottom underground.
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Here's a (crappy) shot of the leading edge. If you look at this picture and scroll up to the top picture again you can see the wear this blade already has along it's leading edge.
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So, here's the question. Do you think a Garden Tractor could pull it in sandy soil if it was cleaned up? I don't have a specific job for it, but it could make a neat attachment with a bit of welding/fabbing.
 
Dean- Don't feel bad, I still have yet to get my snow eatting 451 hooked up to my 1864, plus to add to the insult I had to switch my blade from the 1450 with the cab and chains on the turfs to the good old 582M with fluid filled ags cause with the chains I was getting no traction and the damn windows in the cab where steaming up so bad I couldn't see where my blade edge was and ended up giving mine and the neighbors bouleveyard a free trim job
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And to top it off the battery in the 582M was dead, and is sitting in the house getting charged as we speak
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I blame Charlie and his damn snow dance for all my cub problems this weekend
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Ryan; I use a thin coat of dielectric grease on contacts of wire splices and automotive bulbs. Then i use white lube as a protection against corosion in the sockets of both. I had A plymouth car (Freebie x cop car) that went through taillight bulbs almost daily.A mechanic told me to spray white lube in the sockets,and this solved it. seals weather and dirt out and cuts down on vibration.
Luther
 
While some were out plowing snow I plowed my garden.
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It was 15 degrees when I turned the first furrow. Plowing was great after tractor/plow was dialed in. Furrow tires had a little wet soil on them when I was done:
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Moldboard is shinny after plowing today.
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This picture is 3 hours after I was done plowing garden.
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The white stuff is snow.

Not sure if my 149 is the only tractor that has this problem...I had to tighten bolts that hold motor in frame again. I found the loose bolts when I was putting blade on my tractor.
 
Brad S,
I have a socket that I use specifically for carb needle seats. I bought a deep-well 3/8" drive six-point socket and used my bench grinder to carefully and slowly reduce the outside diameter of the socket so it would fit into the carb body and remove/install the seat. I did use a can of water to keep dipping the socket in so I wouldn't overheat anything, but I probably didn't really need to. I wanted to make sure I didn't get it hot enough to change the temper and weaken it any more than I was already doing by reducing the wall thickness. With the brass seat and the soft metal of the carb body, the seating torque is not very much.
It would be easier on a lathe or even on a drill press with a large enough chuck, but I didn't have either of those laying around at the time. Still don't. Oh, well.
I used my grinder to modify a yard-sale large screwdriver to accurately fit the screw-in seats, too. Those are lots of fun when somebody has used a screwdriver that's too small to try to get them out. Then it's time for PB Blaster, heat, and sometimes screw extractors before you can replace the wrecked seat.
As for the separator gasket, just try it. You can always pull the bowl and put one in. It mainly just keeps fuel from slopping around where it doesn't belong if you're bouncing along uneven ground, kind of like a kid's sippy-cup, which is amazingly similar to an adult's travel coffee mug. If you're plowing a garden you'd notice it, but if it works the way you use your tractor...
BTW, didn't you ALSO leave the gallon jug in the middle of the yard?

Dale M.,
I got a parts 1450 this summer that had ONE bolt holding the engine in. The guy I got it from said it shook a lot. LOC-TITE?
 
Everybody still out playin with Cubs in the snow? The weather guessers were right on here. Mostly sleet and ice here near Des Moines. Most of it melted overnight. So how bout some pictures...
 
Yes........The gallon jug was also outside ! Im going out to try again.. new gas and heet deicer in the tank. I'll try to get pictures on here if I can figure out how to do it, of the 14-16 inches of snow.
 
Dale M. / Bruce M.,
Loose or even missing engine securing bolts are not an unusual condition. YES, clean the tapped hole well & clean the bolts, then an ample amount of blue loc-tite on the treads is the trick. Make sure you're using the correct length bolt (you want all of the thread engagement you can get) and I also use a new lock washer under the bolt head. I usually try to give a look under the tractor every month or so - just to check on things - and inspect the engine bolts. I DON'T check their torque, since the loc-tite bond would then be broken loose; rather I just look to see if the lock washer still APPEARS to be tight between the bolt head and the frame rail. If it does, then they're likely still tight.

A year or so ago, I had a serious vibration on, I believe, my 129/K301. Now recall that these earlier CC engines are bolted solid to the frame. ISO mounts came on the later models (although even those weren't the answer - as they still proved to be problematic in keeping the engine secure and vibration-free.) ANYWAY, as I recall, I had two missing bolts and two very loose bolts. Since these bolts go up into the bottom of the ALUMINUM oil pan, I was afraid that the the aluminum threads were pulled out or ruined. However, I was lucky in that they were not ruined and after carefully cleaning them as I described above and installed new bolts & lock washers, I've had no problems since. I don't recall off hand just what the torque of the engine mounting bolts should be, but I'd probably suggest to take them to about 30-40ft/lbs considering the ample amount of LOC-TITE on the threads, which reduces torque values.

Good Luck!
Ryan W
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Brad S.,
Just as a quick tip, if you didn't have any 'HEET deicer' or other type of commercially-available 'dry gas' product,,, know that you could dump in 1/2 bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol (common rubbing alcohol) into a fresh tankful of fuel and it would do the same water-absorbing work.

I usually watch the mail flyers and when the local drug store has it on sale, I'll buy three or four bottles of it. It's less expensive than dry gas and works just as well.

Good Luck!
Ryan W
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<u>Pictures of early Cub Cadets</u>

Just discovered this enjoyable site and forum!

My father, Robert (Bob) Carlson, had a long involvement with IH, and particularly with Cub Cadets. On retirement from IH, he followed the product to MTD as their QC consultant.

He died in September, this year. I have rescued a small pile of pictures and documents, pictures such as the one below:

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You can find his full set of Cub Cadet photos on my web site:

gallery.mac.com/clsmfmly

For your information, as the engineer's son, I drove all of these early models. I also drove the earliest test units with hydrostatic drives and a prototype that had a small turbine - sounded like a vacuum cleaner at 90 dB. Unfortunately, I do not have picture of that one.

I have digitized and reprocessed all of his Cub Cadet photos (he also had some early Farmall Cub pictures), as well as documents including early Kohler newsletters that featured the Cub Cadets (and included pictures of Dad). The original printed materials have started to deteriorate - edges brown and brittle, images faded. The quality of a fresh print from one of my reprocessed images would easily surpass that of the original at this point.

I suppose that IH has an archive of these photographs somewhere. I do not plan to keep the original materials that I have - not enough room in our flat. Does anyone know who might want the originals, or where I should send them?

Thanks!
 
Cool pics Dave C. I'm sure that someone on the forum would be interesred in the originals.
Brian L
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Dave C. SWEEEEETTT!!!!! Pics..... I can only think of one gentleman interested in the pics.... Charlie P. (or myself). E:mail Charlie about them.... BTW Where is Charlie???
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Dave - Cool fork lift
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I may have to make me one of those.
Welcome to the forum
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The oil pan is a cast iron pan. Back threads where tap. I did clean all the threads and put a dab of LOC-TITE on the threads.

149 is used to push snow in the winter. Time will tell if this fix the problem.
 

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