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Archive through August 28, 2012
- Thread starter jegiles
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Disappointed again after installing new engine mounts on my quiet line.Vibrates as bad or worse than it did with the old worn out system.This is the 3rd c/c I have installed the new system on and with the same unsatisfactory result.A beautiful 1450 which shakes so bad I'm afraid everything is going to fall off.
dgallagher
Well-known member
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- Feb 12, 2000
- Messages
- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
I am doing a trunion repair on my 169. I have welded the slot and am in the process of filing it down to the proper size. Would it be better to shorten the length of the slot since the springs seem to lose tension over the years? Thanks
rvanmersbergen
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- Dec 18, 2007
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- 154
- displayname
- Ray Van Mersbergen
Ken, thanks again, you have given me food for thought
Daniel M.
If you did not replace all 4, it's going to be hard to make a descent change in the machine, if not impossible.
If you did not replace all 4, it's going to be hard to make a descent change in the machine, if not impossible.
I'm going to add one of those freakin expensive noise suppression mufflers to one of the 149's and see if that makes me like them better.
I kinda doubt it, but it's worth a shot.
I kinda doubt it, but it's worth a shot.
Daniel,
In a very real way, I feel your pain. I replaced the motor mounts on my 1250 nightmare and am experiencing excessive vibration as well.
I have discussed this problem ad nausium on this site, and those in the know have been sympathetic, understanding, suggested many things to try, told me that I did the job wrong, advised me to take it to another near-by enthusiast, and noting seems to help it enough to make a big difference.
I used Cub Cadet OEM mount kits, and had the engine cradle modified. The instructions in the kits recommend tightening the mount bolts to 100 inch pounds. Tightening up the mounts has helped somewhat. I am unclear as to how long it will last. It has been stated to me that doing so ruined some expensive mounts. I don't know. I used some rubber and felt in strategic [places to calm some of the rattling. I guess it helped some.
I don't know what to do anymore. I can't even complain about it. I do feel that the engine cradle modification is causing some of the problem because the cradle cannot move independently, as it could before this change. That is just a thought, and I have nothing upon which to base it. I'll pull the engine again next summer, put a crankshaft balancer in it and see what happens. I may buy a set of motor mounts ant try it without the engine cradle modification. That might help.
If I had a solution, I would share it. It seems as if many have ideas, and none of those ideas have really worked.
Good luck. I would appreciate knowing if you find something that really works.
Be well...
Brian Wittman
_-------------------------------------------------
The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
In a very real way, I feel your pain. I replaced the motor mounts on my 1250 nightmare and am experiencing excessive vibration as well.
I have discussed this problem ad nausium on this site, and those in the know have been sympathetic, understanding, suggested many things to try, told me that I did the job wrong, advised me to take it to another near-by enthusiast, and noting seems to help it enough to make a big difference.
I used Cub Cadet OEM mount kits, and had the engine cradle modified. The instructions in the kits recommend tightening the mount bolts to 100 inch pounds. Tightening up the mounts has helped somewhat. I am unclear as to how long it will last. It has been stated to me that doing so ruined some expensive mounts. I don't know. I used some rubber and felt in strategic [places to calm some of the rattling. I guess it helped some.
I don't know what to do anymore. I can't even complain about it. I do feel that the engine cradle modification is causing some of the problem because the cradle cannot move independently, as it could before this change. That is just a thought, and I have nothing upon which to base it. I'll pull the engine again next summer, put a crankshaft balancer in it and see what happens. I may buy a set of motor mounts ant try it without the engine cradle modification. That might help.
If I had a solution, I would share it. It seems as if many have ideas, and none of those ideas have really worked.
Good luck. I would appreciate knowing if you find something that really works.
Be well...
Brian Wittman
_-------------------------------------------------
The only things that should be green and yellow are the NDSU Bison. GO Bison!
kide
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- Aug 27, 2006
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- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Quoting Don T: "Just add a washer on each end of the springs, works for me." Wait ten years or so Don, those springs keep on packing....
Reminds me of the guy we bought the '51 Merc from ... We were at one of the Lead Sled events at Holland, MI and the generator quit genning. Dick sez "The brushes are probably worn down, you can shim 'em out with a wooden match stick and it'll work for quite a while..." Yup, we pulled the brushes - there were already wood shims - Dick later admitted he's put 'em in a few years before and had forgotten to put in new brushes.. If you do some of those temp fixes on your Cub, remember, they're temporary at best..
Reminds me of the guy we bought the '51 Merc from ... We were at one of the Lead Sled events at Holland, MI and the generator quit genning. Dick sez "The brushes are probably worn down, you can shim 'em out with a wooden match stick and it'll work for quite a while..." Yup, we pulled the brushes - there were already wood shims - Dick later admitted he's put 'em in a few years before and had forgotten to put in new brushes.. If you do some of those temp fixes on your Cub, remember, they're temporary at best..
kide
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- Gerry Ide
I'm a little puzzled about the Quietline vibration complaints, especially with the smaller (12 horse) engines. These were balanced the same as the older engines in the NF and earlier WF frames. It seems to me that the vibration at its worse (with the rubber mounts so tight as to nullify them) would be no worse than the previous generation tractors. I would almost be looking elsewhere if the vibration is really that bad, like a misaligned driveshaft or an internal engine issue. If the vibration is the same as the earlier tractors, I wouldn't worry about things falling off ( my 129 dances a jig if the idle is set too low...) BTW - if you want to see engine vibration, watch the engine mounted horn shake on a 103 inch Harley setting at idle.. almost this bad..
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Gerry and all - I'm really at a loss myself understanding the vibration issue with Quiet Line tractors. The cradle and replacement ISO mounts has been done for years by others and I hardly ever remember a complaint of worse vibration. It now seems everyone doing it somehow ends up with more vibration. I just don't understand. I've done it on 3 different Quiet Lines and was successful each time in actually lessening vibration, although I did re-use the old original top mounts in the lower positions and new mounts for the top positions. I have to assume something else is occuring, maybe drive shaft is mis-ailigning, rag joint coupler issue, just don't know.
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Jacob E.G. Quart low on oil will not hurt or burn up a 15U. Check your linkage... pull up the 15 Series Service Manual and study it, Change your oil and filter. Report back please with updates.
Daniel C. M. Just how long have you run that tractor after installing those mounts before concluding that they aren't working properly? Remember my "Stripper's Delight" break-in period thing?
Charlie P. Just send that 149 down to Iowa and I'll check the noise level for you.
Gotta start work in a few minutes... Have a wonderful day.
Daniel C. M. Just how long have you run that tractor after installing those mounts before concluding that they aren't working properly? Remember my "Stripper's Delight" break-in period thing?
Charlie P. Just send that 149 down to Iowa and I'll check the noise level for you.
Gotta start work in a few minutes... Have a wonderful day.
Gerry Ide
I put the washers in even with new springs. I find that the washers tighten up the trunion area and make the tractor work better. I know I`am not the only guy that has found this to work . I have also found that the centre spring will last a lot longer before it breaks and I also add some good grease to keep that centre spring from rusting .wfm
I put the washers in even with new springs. I find that the washers tighten up the trunion area and make the tractor work better. I know I`am not the only guy that has found this to work . I have also found that the centre spring will last a lot longer before it breaks and I also add some good grease to keep that centre spring from rusting .wfm
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Daniel C.-
If you are following the instructions that come with the OEM mounts, that is likely why you are not happy. The mounts need to be tightened such that 2 threads or so are showing through the nuts on the original length bolts. That 100 in-lb torque is nonsense and doesn't provide satisfactory results, as has been discussed on here before, and it permanently distorts the mounts, too.
I don't understand why there's still so much confusion and discussion on this...as Richard C. said last time this came up, this is not rocket science, just a simple rubber mount.
If you are following the instructions that come with the OEM mounts, that is likely why you are not happy. The mounts need to be tightened such that 2 threads or so are showing through the nuts on the original length bolts. That 100 in-lb torque is nonsense and doesn't provide satisfactory results, as has been discussed on here before, and it permanently distorts the mounts, too.
I don't understand why there's still so much confusion and discussion on this...as Richard C. said last time this came up, this is not rocket science, just a simple rubber mount.
wchockensmith
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- Sep 13, 2010
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- walter c. hockensmith
good morning is there a template for the rubber disc of the drive line coupler on an "o"
thanks in advance.
thanks in advance.
I replaced all 4 mounts with the new mounts from one of our sponsors which are the same as sold at a dealer.I modified the mount by welding the two sides together as directed.I tightened each bolt until it slightly protruded the self locking nut as was suggested by someone.It dosen't vibrate very much @ idle or wide open but at mid range,where I like to mow,its pathetic.I personally think the 2 bar weld fix was intended to keep the softer original mounts from moving individually with very little effect on these new mounts.I'm going to do something different,I just don't know what.
Dan
Dan
walter c. hockensmith
That disk (flex coupling) should be got from a sponsor in the boxes above. I don`t think you can make one that will stand up to the torture those disk take.
When sharpening mower blades wear gloves to help protect your thumb from long cuts .btdt Not a good start for my day here
That disk (flex coupling) should be got from a sponsor in the boxes above. I don`t think you can make one that will stand up to the torture those disk take.
When sharpening mower blades wear gloves to help protect your thumb from long cuts .btdt Not a good start for my day here
Ahhhh I feel ornery today... Charlie - If you need that big old muffler on a 149 you wouldn't like the K321 in my #72 at all with the straight pipe. CC's are like Harley's, Born to be noisy!
I'll be the first to admit the Q/L's had some nice features, the dual spool hydraulics, automatic release dump valves on the hydro, no lever to push & hold to roll them around. But I have to think that with all the problems from the rubber mounted engine, I'm never going to have one..... UNLESS I can use it for PARTS. And the nice thing about that is that with a little work 90% of the parts interchange with a 1X9.
Heck, even IH new the rubber mounts were not a good thing, they went back to the solid mounted mostly twin cyl engines in the red tractors.
DANIEL, BRIAN - Like you're thinking, I'd add the balance weights Dave Kirk sells to your CC engines. They really smooth out the larger HP engines. The K321 in my 72 vibrates LESS than the K241 it replaced. I'd also pull the balance weights if they're still in the engine. Less vibration in the engine to begin with means less work for the rubber isolators to do.
I'll be the first to admit the Q/L's had some nice features, the dual spool hydraulics, automatic release dump valves on the hydro, no lever to push & hold to roll them around. But I have to think that with all the problems from the rubber mounted engine, I'm never going to have one..... UNLESS I can use it for PARTS. And the nice thing about that is that with a little work 90% of the parts interchange with a 1X9.
Heck, even IH new the rubber mounts were not a good thing, they went back to the solid mounted mostly twin cyl engines in the red tractors.
DANIEL, BRIAN - Like you're thinking, I'd add the balance weights Dave Kirk sells to your CC engines. They really smooth out the larger HP engines. The K321 in my 72 vibrates LESS than the K241 it replaced. I'd also pull the balance weights if they're still in the engine. Less vibration in the engine to begin with means less work for the rubber isolators to do.
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