Archive through August 28, 2012

[jegiles]

Hey everyone,
Awhile ago I posted about having trouble with my 125 hydro pump. I think the fact of the matter is it was just burnt up from being a quart low on hydro oil. So now, I have a Cub 105 hydro pump and transaxle. Is that the same as the 125? I intend this to be for pulling, so I need all the power I can get from it. Also, do I HAVE to use hytrain, or can i use premium hydrolic oil? hytrain is expensive, and money is an issue now. Thanks!!

 

[jchamberlin]

Jacob: IH/CCC/MTD, the tractor manufacturer, recommends Hy-Tran. It is formulated to remove water from the oil; the water "gels up" in the case and should be removed at fluid changes.

Sauer-Danfoss (Sunstrand), the manufacturer of the transmission, recommends "any good hydraulic fluid."

I would think that if you're going to be changing it out a lot, you may not see the benefit of the Hy-tran (others may disagree); but if you're going to leave it in the transmission for more than a year or two, I think the Hy-tran will pay for itself by how it preserves and protects the transmission.

I can't speak to performance issues, that is, I don't know if either one will help the transmission make (or lose) power.

Just my two cents worth.

 

[jbaker]

Jacob the 105 and 125 are the exactly the same except for the engine everthing else is the same.

You can use other fluids but as Jeremiah said HYTRAN is worth the price, I know I just bought 2 gallons, to lower the price some contact a local Case/IH dealer and ask is they will sell it straight from a barrel into your container, I saved over a dollar a pint that way..

 

[dfrisk]

Jacob - Most serious pullers use a gear drive. The Hydro saps a little HP from the engine, in the form of heat warming up the whole rear end of the tractor. GD's normally run really cool even when pulling hard for hours on end.

The hydro does offer the advantage of getting the absolute most out of the available HP your tractor has with it's infinent speed control. But a Hydro doesn't add any HP by any means.

I wouldn't think running a quart low on oil would burn up a hydro, they're really very durable. Might have been a combination of low and very very old oil.

Like everyone says, use Ht-Tran. The Sundstrand 15U hydro can use a lot of different types of oil, but Hy-Tran is the best. Even if I stooped so low as to use a green/yellow tractor which had the same 15U hydro I'd still use Hy-Tran in it.

KRAIG - In looking at Art's 100, you are correct, there's five rows of knobs, so it's a 23-8.50. Still never made any sense to me to NOT run inner tubes. My old 129 had 23-10.50 turf tires that were splitting down the center, so I put Boots, tire casing liners, in them and ran them another couple years until I got a good pair of BFG turf's from Scott Madsen. As my Dad would have said, "That tire wouldn't hold ear corn let alone air!".

I ruined one of the original factory 6-12 GY turf tires on the 70 2 yrs ago grading dirt for a retaining wall. Had chains & a fair bit of weight on the back of the 70. Had a low tire too, and the tire buckled enough it finally ripped a six inch long hole in the sidewall. But the tube never blew. Took me ten minutes to throw one of the old 6-12's off the 72 on and re-install the weights & chains.

 

[jegiles]

Dennis,
Thanks! And everyone else! I pull normal stock tractors in Vermont, and there is alot of clay. Hydros preform better because unlike a standard, you can back off the speed control lever to gain back RPM's. Currently I pull with a C-81 that does well, but I'm looking to get a real Cub out there in a month or so.

 

[drglinski]

My wife just told me that my 40 some year old lawn tractor runs and sounds better than the neighbors maybe 10 year old Craftsman.

 

[dfrisk]

JACOB - What's a "C-81"? Some sort of WW II cargo plane?

I watch a lot of NTPA tractor pulling on RDF-TV. The Big guys run real low "V" shaped lugs on their pulling tires. 'Course they all have WAY too much HP, get wheel spin right out of the gate, but on hard tracks they don't really dig much.

If you're loosing RPM's, then you don't have enough HP yet.... yeah..yeah... I know you said "STOCK" tractors, but then I know a couple GD CC's that mow the lawn every week that would NOT be legal for your post-pull inspection... hehehe I have one.

 

[asmith]

What would this hole have been for?

 

[dfrisk]

ALEX - I have a hole almost identical to that one on my CC #70, except it's on the left side of the dash. It has a push-button starting switch from an old Famrall H or M in it right now. When I fix it up this winter I'm welding it closed, along with about 100 other holes drilled in it many many other places. SON already welded up about 30 holes drilled in the hood a couple years ago.

 

[asmith]

Dennis: That's what I thought it might be but it had the key switch in it and it looks so precise thought it would have another purpose.

 

[asmith]

 

[asmith]

Another pic

 

[asmith]

 

[digger]

Alex S.
Can ya make those pics a little smaller, I can still make out what they are showing.

 

[asmith]

Had a hard enough time getting them on here as it was. Maybe I'll figure it out next time.

 

[jbaker]

Alex we would love to see a larger pic...

 

[fcurrier]

Alex: I'm winging it, here. That's a PNG pic (and I don't even know what that means). Kraig?? I'm used to dealing with JPG and VuePrint.
That said, if the key switch was up there it was because someone got tired of kicking the key on his/her way on or off the tractor.

 

[asmith]

Frank C: The key switch was not there it was where it was supposed to be. The hole had nothing in it. Sorry about the pics.

 

[fcurrier]

Jeff: You could do that. Just hook it to a battery and let it go. However: You'll gain 24 hours a day so if you've got a long way to go it will get back to 0 exactly when you've either forgotten about it or are involved with another project.

Aaarghh, I'm hallucinating!

 

[digger]

Frank C.
Portable Network Graphics IE: Cell Phone, I pad and the like.