Thanks everyone for all the replys & comments about the " speed up pulley " I now know what you guys are talking about. Maybe this winter I'll look around for one ,I plan on doing some work on the deck.I would actually like to find a smaller deck for the 104,the 48" deck is nice,but its a lil much for my place. If I could find maybe a 42 or 44" deck that would be perfect. I can barley squeeze through the gates in the fenced in area, I've een thinking about using some kinda truck bed liner on the underside of the deck,then sprayin it white.I know some of you guys have used it,hows it holding up? are you happy with the results? What brand did you use, thanks
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Archive through August 25, 2012
- Thread starter scorder
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Chuck Fischer....That exhaust looks good , Nice job! I'm wanting to put a upright exhaust on my 104 but unsure how I want to go about doing it. Part of me wants to put a nice chrome / stainless straight pipe on it and the other part wants to go with a muffler.Cant make up mu mind.
Charles- I'd probably be a rule breaker wherever you are at. I once bought a TON of Cub Cadet parts from a guy...he wanted them out of the shop right away, so one night (with my roommate's help), we loaded up my trunk and his S-10 and we put all those Cub parts up in my 2nd floor apartment. I bet there was enough parts to build an Original or 71. (thats what the parts were off I believe). So don't be afraid to buy stuff and hide it from people who would get mad!
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- Binder 1650
Spent a goodly amount of time with the 109 this weekend - fine tuning the mowing deck and a few other loose ends.
I leveled the deck from side to side, replaced the deck wheels with some from a parted out deck - wheels of the same diameter and installed my new brass PTO button.
Question is - given the Cub Cadets have an undercarriage between the deck and tractor, do you find that your deck MUST be used specific to a tractor, else you have to readjust the deck level? I don't know if these undercarriages get bent and deformed slightly (as well as the deck mounting points) over the years and essentially render exact interchangeability between tractors a hit or miss proposition.
The other thing I did was add a suicide knob to the steering wheel. I've never used one of these things, but found one on close-out at Tractor Supply and bought it. I find the hydro on this 109 pretty fast and with no detent between forward and reverse, you can snap this tractor around quickly. The suicide helped greatly with being able to turn with one hand while having the other hand on the hydro lever.
I think I asked this one other time - how fast are you mowing, but it's easy to get the ground speed fairly fast on this 109. Generally, I don't get in a hurry when mowing, but I can see if one has a large yard, the faster you mow, the sooner you finish. I've played around with the 109 w/speed-up pulley mowing with a faster than normal ground speed and seems to be OK. I think I saw in a brochure for the 1x9 series tractors that the forward speed was around 8 mph. I think a lot of zero turn mowers can hit that speed too. Question is - do their blades turn faster than a CC to compensate for the increased ground speed. It could be that I could have been mowing much faster (not 8 mph) than I have in the past years without compromising the quality of cut.
I leveled the deck from side to side, replaced the deck wheels with some from a parted out deck - wheels of the same diameter and installed my new brass PTO button.
Question is - given the Cub Cadets have an undercarriage between the deck and tractor, do you find that your deck MUST be used specific to a tractor, else you have to readjust the deck level? I don't know if these undercarriages get bent and deformed slightly (as well as the deck mounting points) over the years and essentially render exact interchangeability between tractors a hit or miss proposition.
The other thing I did was add a suicide knob to the steering wheel. I've never used one of these things, but found one on close-out at Tractor Supply and bought it. I find the hydro on this 109 pretty fast and with no detent between forward and reverse, you can snap this tractor around quickly. The suicide helped greatly with being able to turn with one hand while having the other hand on the hydro lever.
I think I asked this one other time - how fast are you mowing, but it's easy to get the ground speed fairly fast on this 109. Generally, I don't get in a hurry when mowing, but I can see if one has a large yard, the faster you mow, the sooner you finish. I've played around with the 109 w/speed-up pulley mowing with a faster than normal ground speed and seems to be OK. I think I saw in a brochure for the 1x9 series tractors that the forward speed was around 8 mph. I think a lot of zero turn mowers can hit that speed too. Question is - do their blades turn faster than a CC to compensate for the increased ground speed. It could be that I could have been mowing much faster (not 8 mph) than I have in the past years without compromising the quality of cut.
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A few other things while I'm thinking about it.
Managed to loose the gas cap to the 109...
Found the metal gas cap from an old Eagle gas can with a gasket covering the hole threads right on - till I can order a new gas cap - or two...
Oil change question - is it possible to change oil on the 109 (or any other IHCC tractor) while the mowing deck and carrier are installed? Somehow I think I'm going to have to take all that stuff off to do a simple oil change...
Managed to loose the gas cap to the 109...
Found the metal gas cap from an old Eagle gas can with a gasket covering the hole threads right on - till I can order a new gas cap - or two...
Oil change question - is it possible to change oil on the 109 (or any other IHCC tractor) while the mowing deck and carrier are installed? Somehow I think I'm going to have to take all that stuff off to do a simple oil change...
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Bill J.-
It takes less than 5 minutes to remove the mower deck and carriage, and you can clean the underside of the deck and grease the spindles while you wait for the oil to drain.
It takes less than 5 minutes to remove the mower deck and carriage, and you can clean the underside of the deck and grease the spindles while you wait for the oil to drain.
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- Home of the Plow Special
"New" rear tires on my daughter's 100 after she rolled the original turfs (with chains) off the bead a a local PD this past Spring.
As far as the barney knobs are concerned, I dislike them, a bunch. They just get in my way and using them feels weird, on anything they are installed on, wither it be tractors or garden tractors. I have no problems steering my 147 w/ one hand on the hydro lever and palming the steering with the other. Been doing it that way for years. To each their own.
ART - Are those your new 23-10.50 Firestones? They look good! You even got the tread facing the right way on them both!
BILL J. - Matt is correct, pulling the deck & mule drive only takes 5 minutes, and another 5 min to replace. But I find a simple bread pan sits inside the arms on the mule drive just right and holds the 1-1/2 quarts of oil from the Kohler. Have to be careful getting the pan out because it's full to within 1/2 to 1/4 inch of the top.
Far as swapping decks between mule drives on tractors, I would think that could cause problems. If you kept the mule drive with the same deck but on different tractors, not so much. I only have one deck for each tractor so can't swap things around.
The linkage and pivot points do wear over the years, and adjustments for height side-to-side and frt to back are needed. Depends on how hard you are on your deck BUSH-HOGGING weeds. The decks themselves can and will distort is treated rough, the 44 & 50 inch decks especially since they're made from lighter gauge steel.
I don't think you'll find ANY old CC decks with blade tip speeds approaching what today's zero-turn mowers have. I've never checked any of my decks but I thought someone years ago figured CC decks run around 15,000-16,000 feet per minute. Most zero-turn mowers are rated 18,000-19,000 FPM that I've seen. You can thank Purdue University for a lot of the issues with the mower decks. I read in one of my CC books that IH contracted out the sound reduction project to PU for the quiet-line tractors. And suprise surprise, the mower deck was one of the biggest contributors to noise while mowing so the slowed the deck speed down. Maybe that's why they had to offer the speed-up pulley. Even with the speed-up pulley the blades would only run 16,666 to 17,777 FPM, about 11.1% faster.
I should check my engine RPM with my tach someday, and then check mower spindle speed. I think my 38" deck has all three blades running at different speed. Should do the 982 while I'm at it.
BILL J. - Matt is correct, pulling the deck & mule drive only takes 5 minutes, and another 5 min to replace. But I find a simple bread pan sits inside the arms on the mule drive just right and holds the 1-1/2 quarts of oil from the Kohler. Have to be careful getting the pan out because it's full to within 1/2 to 1/4 inch of the top.
Far as swapping decks between mule drives on tractors, I would think that could cause problems. If you kept the mule drive with the same deck but on different tractors, not so much. I only have one deck for each tractor so can't swap things around.
The linkage and pivot points do wear over the years, and adjustments for height side-to-side and frt to back are needed. Depends on how hard you are on your deck BUSH-HOGGING weeds. The decks themselves can and will distort is treated rough, the 44 & 50 inch decks especially since they're made from lighter gauge steel.
I don't think you'll find ANY old CC decks with blade tip speeds approaching what today's zero-turn mowers have. I've never checked any of my decks but I thought someone years ago figured CC decks run around 15,000-16,000 feet per minute. Most zero-turn mowers are rated 18,000-19,000 FPM that I've seen. You can thank Purdue University for a lot of the issues with the mower decks. I read in one of my CC books that IH contracted out the sound reduction project to PU for the quiet-line tractors. And suprise surprise, the mower deck was one of the biggest contributors to noise while mowing so the slowed the deck speed down. Maybe that's why they had to offer the speed-up pulley. Even with the speed-up pulley the blades would only run 16,666 to 17,777 FPM, about 11.1% faster.
I should check my engine RPM with my tach someday, and then check mower spindle speed. I think my 38" deck has all three blades running at different speed. Should do the 982 while I'm at it.
rvanmersbergen
Well-known member
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- displayname
- Ray Van Mersbergen
Dennis, do you know what the shaft/spindle rpm is with 18 to 19,0000 fpm tip speed?
Anthony S,
Regarding the fwd PTO rockshaft on your 129, once you remove the cotter pins, you have to work the rockshaft back and forth to the left while rotating to get the slotted bushing free of the frame rail mounting. Since the bushing is slotted, it should come off fairly easy. Use a good penentrating oil to help and a screwdriver in the slot to spread the bushing to help loosen it once it is clear of the frame mount. Removing the hood and the front grill casting will greatly help with access to the rockshaft.
Regarding the fwd PTO rockshaft on your 129, once you remove the cotter pins, you have to work the rockshaft back and forth to the left while rotating to get the slotted bushing free of the frame rail mounting. Since the bushing is slotted, it should come off fairly easy. Use a good penentrating oil to help and a screwdriver in the slot to spread the bushing to help loosen it once it is clear of the frame mount. Removing the hood and the front grill casting will greatly help with access to the rockshaft.
RAY Van M. - No, just the spec's I remember seeing on the few spec sheets for zero-turn mowers I looked at several months ago when Don T was buying his mower. If we knew the legth of the blade it's simple to figure out the RPM.
Just wanted to introduce myself and show you a pic of the 102 I picked up in June, but when I preview the post all I see is the dreaded red "X". Anyway, I reside near Brownsdale, MN. Thanks for the great site. I've been trying to absorb all of the information on this site.
Any thoughts about what I am doing wrong with my pictures. I believe they are sized accordingly...<100kb and <800 x 600 pixels. Must be something simple I'm not doing.
Any thoughts about what I am doing wrong with my pictures. I believe they are sized accordingly...<100kb and <800 x 600 pixels. Must be something simple I'm not doing.
Ray,
I posted some information about this in the spring, I think. 19,000 FPM, maximum, is a Federal rule about safety. It is primarily concerned about thrown objects.
A 20" blade spinning at 3600 RPM gets close to this. That is why it is the most common push mower size. If you find a 21" or 22" they have governed the engine below 3600 RPM.
The 15-1/8" blades on my 44" deck would have to spin at 4800 rpm to reach that tip speed. I wonder if the spindles would be OK at that speed, IDK.
Blade Tip Speed (ft) = Blade Length (in) x PI x RPM / 12 (in/ft). PI is 3.1416, close enough.
I posted some information about this in the spring, I think. 19,000 FPM, maximum, is a Federal rule about safety. It is primarily concerned about thrown objects.
A 20" blade spinning at 3600 RPM gets close to this. That is why it is the most common push mower size. If you find a 21" or 22" they have governed the engine below 3600 RPM.
The 15-1/8" blades on my 44" deck would have to spin at 4800 rpm to reach that tip speed. I wonder if the spindles would be OK at that speed, IDK.
Blade Tip Speed (ft) = Blade Length (in) x PI x RPM / 12 (in/ft). PI is 3.1416, close enough.
After reading some of the archives i found a good fix for my creeper. The roll pin that goes through the shift lever and the shift yoke had wallered out the hole in both. I came across a post where some one tack welded their yoke to the shaft. I did this only after not being able to find parts that i could afford. I just want to thank you all for making this site possible other wise I would still be in a pickle looking for parts and alternative ways to repair.
Thanks agian to all
Thanks agian to all
