mfrade
Well-known member
Allen S,. and I wasn't even tryin'!!!! I was out cuttin' the grass. It's been two weeks and only the weeds got taller... 
Archive through August 19, 2011
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mfrade
Well-known member
Count me in too Aaron! I'm sure you'll do a better job than me tryin' to crank a single one out!
Paul, thanks for getting those measurements for Melody!
Aaron, Don,
Troy, I thought you had found a set of the windbreaker brackets???? I know I was supposed to get you the measurements of the brackets. Seeing that Paul got the measurement of the roof supports for Melody and I was all set to measure them I did my best to get some photos of the front brackets for you with a tape measure but they didn't turn out too good (I need to weed through them and see if any are suitable for posting.) My 10'x 18' shed is very cramped so it wasn't easy. Here's some photos I took of it about 10 years ago.
Note the wasp nest.
Never mind the heavy angle, that's the supports for my rear mounted weights. Note the roof supports are mounted behind it.
Aaron, Don,
Troy, I thought you had found a set of the windbreaker brackets???? I know I was supposed to get you the measurements of the brackets. Seeing that Paul got the measurement of the roof supports for Melody and I was all set to measure them I did my best to get some photos of the front brackets for you with a tape measure but they didn't turn out too good (I need to weed through them and see if any are suitable for posting.) My 10'x 18' shed is very cramped so it wasn't easy. Here's some photos I took of it about 10 years ago.
Note the wasp nest.
Never mind the heavy angle, that's the supports for my rear mounted weights. Note the roof supports are mounted behind it.
KENtucky, that's my #2 125. It used to belong to a large corporation in St. Paul, MN. In addition to the stenciled Parking Brake lettering, the ignition switch had been swapped out with a security key switch and a push button starter. There were starting instructions in laminated plastic taped to the hood which trapped moisture and caused it to rust which is why it's now painted with flat black primer. They also mounted the battery at the rear, installed the stalk mounted lights and cab mounted strobe light and added the rear weights. Lots of odd alterations. Good to hear it arrived OK. BTW, you may keep it if you wish. It can be quite handy at times to have.
KRAIG - Ya GOTTA HATE those special instructions! Especially when they're taped to the hood and cause the hood to rust!
KEN - Not many other people here besides Me & Kraig appreciate the fact that IH got the styling RIGHT with the 72/1X4/1X5 series. After the 71/1X2/123 which I thought was one of the worse looking CC's they outdid themselves.
Plus it irritates ART who hasn't posted in weeks!
KEN - Not many other people here besides Me & Kraig appreciate the fact that IH got the styling RIGHT with the 72/1X4/1X5 series. After the 71/1X2/123 which I thought was one of the worse looking CC's they outdid themselves.
Plus it irritates ART who hasn't posted in weeks!
Denny, I kind of like the flat black anti-glare hood.
Art has posted recently. However, he only posted a photo of his new bow tie Cub tow vehicle in the Truckin' and Trailerin' our Cub Cadets forum area.
KRAIG - I saw that post..... He's a "SHOW-OFF" isn't he?!?
My truck still has 298,650 miles on it, six yr old car has only 117,000, and Wife's 8-1/2 yr old car has about 148,000 miles. And if I had to buy someting new to drive I have NO idea what it would be.
At least I'm not in the market for a garden tractor.
JERRY - I didn't care for the split hood on the WF's, and the diecast top section what a mistake, I've seen too many broken and poorly welded. DARN I thought the gif of BINDER was in the cliparts! But the removable center frame cover was nice and the frame is more strong in torsion than a NF. Far as "More Power", I already have more HP in my NF #72 than IH put in any WF and it looks completely stock, so there's nothing special in that regards about WF's. Yes, you can't put twin cylnder engines in them without modifications but who needs more that 16-20 HP from a hot-rodded Kohler anyhow?
My truck still has 298,650 miles on it, six yr old car has only 117,000, and Wife's 8-1/2 yr old car has about 148,000 miles. And if I had to buy someting new to drive I have NO idea what it would be.
At least I'm not in the market for a garden tractor.
JERRY - I didn't care for the split hood on the WF's, and the diecast top section what a mistake, I've seen too many broken and poorly welded. DARN I thought the gif of BINDER was in the cliparts! But the removable center frame cover was nice and the frame is more strong in torsion than a NF. Far as "More Power", I already have more HP in my NF #72 than IH put in any WF and it looks completely stock, so there's nothing special in that regards about WF's. Yes, you can't put twin cylnder engines in them without modifications but who needs more that 16-20 HP from a hot-rodded Kohler anyhow?
Looks like the pelple from Kentucky are the only ones who have it right the 122 is the best.
JJ mills, while it is down I would rebuild and/or clean the carb if it hasnt ran in a while, and make sure the motor mounts hav not worn into the oil pan.
JJ mills, while it is down I would rebuild and/or clean the carb if it hasnt ran in a while, and make sure the motor mounts hav not worn into the oil pan.
JJ - Take the rear plate off the rear-end to change the fluid. Put a big catch pan under it and slowly open it up and get ready for a bath.
Take a rag and wipe out all the goo that you'll find in there.
Take the tunnel cover off and inspect the driveshaft and the cooling fan for the hydro. Clean off the crap that'll be in the cooling fins on the hydro pump. If there's fan blades missing - better replace it.
Might ought to take the engine shroud off and check for mice nest or other junk blocking the cooling fins. It doesn't take much to block the airflow.
Check the throttle shaft bushing in the carb to see if it's worn out , if it is it'll run lean.
Inspect all the wiring for possible fractures in the insulation that may lead to shorting.
Take off the battery ground at the frame / body and clean it down to bright metal so it has good contact.
Probably a few other things I missed ...
Take a rag and wipe out all the goo that you'll find in there.
Take the tunnel cover off and inspect the driveshaft and the cooling fan for the hydro. Clean off the crap that'll be in the cooling fins on the hydro pump. If there's fan blades missing - better replace it.
Might ought to take the engine shroud off and check for mice nest or other junk blocking the cooling fins. It doesn't take much to block the airflow.
Check the throttle shaft bushing in the carb to see if it's worn out , if it is it'll run lean.
Inspect all the wiring for possible fractures in the insulation that may lead to shorting.
Take off the battery ground at the frame / body and clean it down to bright metal so it has good contact.
Probably a few other things I missed ...
122 - Nice, I like mine! Plow Day in Western WI is coming soon!
Dennis - Art's old 'burb did not have a powerstroke in it....nor did it have a GM 3800... Sometimes you just need to move on to a newer vehicle. The new 'burb looks really nice! Kind of like my wife's new to us Grand Prix, which has only 77xxx miles. My Powerstroke currently has 255xxx. Our other GPs have 198k, 202, 205, and 230k. Picking up GP #6 tomorrow
Dennis - Art's old 'burb did not have a powerstroke in it....nor did it have a GM 3800... Sometimes you just need to move on to a newer vehicle. The new 'burb looks really nice! Kind of like my wife's new to us Grand Prix, which has only 77xxx miles. My Powerstroke currently has 255xxx. Our other GPs have 198k, 202, 205, and 230k. Picking up GP #6 tomorrow
stanner
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- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
