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Archive through August 17, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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jhillegass

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
95
Location
Southwest Ohio
displayname
Jerry Hillegass
Hello, Doing a test here.....I think I've found a good photo resizer for Windows Vista, a program that works like the old XP-Power toys photo resizer program.

My 149 setup for the garden work this spring.
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My 129, from three summers back, ready for mowing.
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I used the add on program "Prish Image Resizer"

http://www.powerhourgame.com/windows_vista_image_resizer_powertoy_prish_image_resizer.htm

is a link to the free program.

The photos above were 2048 x 1536. I can right click on the photo and change the size down to 640 x 480 as I upload the image for posting. I've only used it a few times, but it looks like it is pretty good.
 
Jason Burge- I looked around, and at least one of the sponsers above carries those blades. Probably more, if you contact them. Curt
 
I'm beginning to remember why I have THREE Cub Cadets.....so I can get the lawn mowed when required on Sunday! I also remember why I HATE Good Year tires.....those miseable 4.00/4.80 x 8 GY front tires on the 72 are starting to split at the seams... Had a flat tire a week ago and pulled the tire off and patched the tube & this AM I put a boot in the same tire and it's going to fail I'm sure....and the darn things are only 40 years old.... I know a Firestone would make it to 50+ yrs old easy! I snuck over to the dark side and looked up what the green guys are using for frt tires and I really like the VREDESTEIN V-61 4-rib fronts but I definetly want to stay with the 4.00/4.80 X 8 size. Anybody had any luck finding them from a normal source? My money is yellow & white, or red & white, not green & yellow....and the wfm suppliers won't talk to Me.
 
Hello, Brand new to the club been a cub guy for a long time. I have a 782D and have been adding accessories to it. Bought a rear PTO for a 782 (type that belts to the front PTO) but when I got it home realized there are two different rear axles mine is the 5 bolt for the hitch type not three. Any one have a suggestions or info I can't find much on the change of the rear end of the 782 or 782D.

Wes
 
Don't I get the normal butt-chewing about the colorful boxes Charlie?
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Chris is about the only sponsor I haven't done business with.....but That'll change tomorrow
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Wes- There is a special adapter for the 782D. You need the Cat '0' 3pt hitch, then there are 2 special attachments to allow use of the #1 or #2 tiller.

If no body has pics, I can dig mine out of the garage. 782D with tiller was a beast.
 
Thanks Charlie, Myron for the serial number answer on the last thread. I was obviously so excited about finally getting an original I bypassed the FAQ's. I didn't even get it unloaded off the truck and I was on the computer trying to find its age. Thanks, Nick
 
Hello Everyone,
I scored a working snow blower for my 105 and I am very excited it appears to turn and rotate. I need an owners manual if there is one out there. I also would like to know if I need a arm attachment to lift it up or does it attach to the deck lift some how...Thx
 
To Myron, who commented on my prblem with the starter generator: thank you!

Just out of curiosity, would the problem have been caused by a weak battery?

Also, are the starter generators the same between the Model 70 and the Model 104?

Thanks, again, Dex
 
Dex B: A weak battery can get you that ole solenoid "click" or even nothing.. Harbor Freight sells a modestly priced battery load tester ($20+ range). It'll save you money and head scratching in the long run, 'cuz it'll tell you if the battery is good or bad....or perhaps just weak and needs a good charge.

The Cub Cadet S/G's are more or less the same and interchangeable....the early ones (like on a Model 70) have bronze armature bushings and oil cups. The bushings sometimes have to be replaced if the PO has not kept the oil cups well oiled per the Owners manual... Later ones have sealed bearings and require no oiling. (Note: tighten the S/G belt per the Operator's manual - too tight and you eat bushings & bearings !! too loose & you eat belts and/or no start or charge....

Check the pulley on the replacement S/G and make sure it is the same as the one being replaced...if not, then just change the pulley....

Myron B
CCupplyRoom
 
Kevin P., you'll need this bracket (see first photo below, the white part on the lift arm) to add to the lift arm if there isn't one already there. And you'll need a lift rod to go from one of the holes in the above mentioned bracket to the snowthrower lift point.

89891.jpg


89892.jpg


You might want to spend some time reading in the FAQ too.

Slip-Plate to prevent snowthrower plugging

Chute Rotator Flex Joint Replacement
 
Okay, I'm still working on the brakes on my 100. I finally got the pivot pin broke free of the lever mounted to the rearend. Now the ball in the plunger is rusted in there and I can't get it out. Does anyone know the diameter of the ball? I'm going to drill and use either an easyout or tap some threads and pull it out with a bolt. So I'll need a new ball. I think I remember seeing some ball bearings in the Hillman drawers at the hardware store. I'm afraid I'll destroy the ball getting it out so I wanted to know the proper dia. first. Then I need to get the plunger out and clean it up and replace the o-ring.

It sure would be nice to have working brakes. As it is the brake gets locked down to where it's hard to roll the Cub by hand and letting out on the clutch is a little jerky.
 
Oops, I figured it wouldn't give me the size, just a name and part number so I didn't even bother looking it up. Sorry for the trouble and thanks for the info.

Keith
 
Keith, I figured you'd already checked and it didn't list the size but I couldn't resist having a look myself. I was surprised when I saw that it listed a size.
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I had the rear end casing on my 782 rebuilt a little while back. I am now having problems with fluid leaking out of the right side bolts that connect the rear end to the frame. Is there something anyone recomends to fix this issue? I don't want to have to take the whole thing back off if I don't have to. The leaks are from both bolts and firly significant.

I know when I took it in, the threads in the casing were stripped. They ( i guess) fiexed it and it was fine for a few months. Now all the sudden they are leaking.
 

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