-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through August 03, 2005
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Jeff,
J8C is the correct plug. Make certain that the condenser is connected to the negative coil post when your running tests, otherwise you won't get a spark at the plug.
J8C is the correct plug. Make certain that the condenser is connected to the negative coil post when your running tests, otherwise you won't get a spark at the plug.
a few days back we were all looking at Paul Bell's High Clearance 100. I was very intruiged by the large rear tires. I was also very intruiged by the post of this cub cadet loboy. What if you took the two concepts and somehow worked them together to make a small version of the IH cub? That would be pretty cool wouldn't it?
I have a cousin that pulls a pretty large flat bed trailer with his 14 horse Kohler powerd Ariens, however, sometimes getting up hills he loses traction. Would making the tractor higher (in turn moving the hitch point higher) effect the traction loss issue at all? It probably doesn't help that he has turf tires on it either. Someone suggested that he put weight on the front of the tractor. I thought swapping out the Ariens for a Cub Cadet would probably make the difference. I sure do love the looks of that cub cadet loboy though. Sure wish I could get a pic of it all done. Does anyone know if it ever got completed?
Chuck
I have a cousin that pulls a pretty large flat bed trailer with his 14 horse Kohler powerd Ariens, however, sometimes getting up hills he loses traction. Would making the tractor higher (in turn moving the hitch point higher) effect the traction loss issue at all? It probably doesn't help that he has turf tires on it either. Someone suggested that he put weight on the front of the tractor. I thought swapping out the Ariens for a Cub Cadet would probably make the difference. I sure do love the looks of that cub cadet loboy though. Sure wish I could get a pic of it all done. Does anyone know if it ever got completed?
Chuck
Attachments
New member here who just traded into a 1650. I have a couple of questions. First, I noticed that there is a "slot" in the dash, just to the upper left of the hydro control. It looks like something must have been there, but there's no marking on the dash to indicate what it could be. Can anybody tell me? Next, I am missing the side panels (engine covers). How hard are these to come by, and how much should I expect to pay for them? And last, There's a lot of vibration in the tractor. I know that Kohler singles aren't the smoothest running engines, but I noticed that the front of the driveshaft seems to be wobbling a bit when the engine is running. I can't shake it there with the engine off, but obviously something isn't right. So I drove 30 miles to the closest dealer to order a new flex-disc. According to their computer, it should have one disc at each end of the shaft. When I got back home I removed the tunnel cover to check the back one out, and noticed no wobble there. However, there are two discs doubled-up there! Is the dealer wrong about having only one disc on each end of the shaft? Or has somebody done something funky here?
Thanks!
Thanks!
rbedell
Well-known member
John G:
First, obtain the following:
(1) 923-3014 Hydro Filter
(1) IH-350837-R2 Gasket, Rear Cover
(14) Pints, Hydraulic Transmission Fluid.
Remove the rear cover and have a container available to catch all the gunk coming out of the rear end. Remove all the gunk as best as you can. Clean the residue up with rags. Then using some sort of solvent (Mineral spirits, kerosene, parts cleaning fluid, etc) and wash out the rear end as best as you can. Once you have that done, blow out the rear end real good until all the solvent is gone. Bear in mind, you have cleaned up the rear end and not the hydro pump. Install the new filter and rear end gasket. Fill the rear end up to the proper level with your choice of the hydro fluid.
You may have to repeat the above procedure, once the new fluid circulates the hydro pump and moves some of the gunk in their, to the rear end and filter. Keep checking the Hydro fluid to for it’s quality. Once you have a good clean and stabile fluid, you are good to go.
First, obtain the following:
(1) 923-3014 Hydro Filter
(1) IH-350837-R2 Gasket, Rear Cover
(14) Pints, Hydraulic Transmission Fluid.
Remove the rear cover and have a container available to catch all the gunk coming out of the rear end. Remove all the gunk as best as you can. Clean the residue up with rags. Then using some sort of solvent (Mineral spirits, kerosene, parts cleaning fluid, etc) and wash out the rear end as best as you can. Once you have that done, blow out the rear end real good until all the solvent is gone. Bear in mind, you have cleaned up the rear end and not the hydro pump. Install the new filter and rear end gasket. Fill the rear end up to the proper level with your choice of the hydro fluid.
You may have to repeat the above procedure, once the new fluid circulates the hydro pump and moves some of the gunk in their, to the rear end and filter. Keep checking the Hydro fluid to for it’s quality. Once you have a good clean and stabile fluid, you are good to go.
Attachments
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
John A.
The slot was for a small plastic stop w/nob that could be used to "mark" a speed on the hydro lever so that it could be repeated. Say you didn't want your son mowing too fast, "Push the hydro lever to the stop, but no further"...(yeah right).
Check your motor mounts for bad rubber isolators, probably shoudl just plan on replacing them and adding a cross brace to the rails.
Multiple rag joints were used on some of the Quiet Lines.
Side sheets usually fetch $50 to $75 a pair, watch the classifieds, or put out a wanted ad on the classified page.
The slot was for a small plastic stop w/nob that could be used to "mark" a speed on the hydro lever so that it could be repeated. Say you didn't want your son mowing too fast, "Push the hydro lever to the stop, but no further"...(yeah right).
Check your motor mounts for bad rubber isolators, probably shoudl just plan on replacing them and adding a cross brace to the rails.
Multiple rag joints were used on some of the Quiet Lines.
Side sheets usually fetch $50 to $75 a pair, watch the classifieds, or put out a wanted ad on the classified page.
John A., welcome to the forum! The slot is for a speed control stop. There should be a small knob there that can be tightened down in various positions for a maximum forward speed setting. Usefull for when you want to apply fertilizer or whatever at a constant speed but not the maximum speed.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Went over to the fair last night to watch the tractor pulls, mini-rods, Super Farm, and 2 classes of Super Stock plus some 2wd trucks and a 4wd street truck class.
IH took top 3 in the Super Stock classes with a bad a$$ed 1066 SCREAMING down the track on 2 perfect runs for first in BOTH weights.
4wd diesel street truck class was dominated by Ford PSD 7.3L trucks...........Looks like IH won all the way around last night!!!!!
Something about watching a 466 turning 7500-8000 rpm with about 80 mph wheel speed cruising down the track that just makes you smile
IH took top 3 in the Super Stock classes with a bad a$$ed 1066 SCREAMING down the track on 2 perfect runs for first in BOTH weights.
4wd diesel street truck class was dominated by Ford PSD 7.3L trucks...........Looks like IH won all the way around last night!!!!!
Something about watching a 466 turning 7500-8000 rpm with about 80 mph wheel speed cruising down the track that just makes you smile
Attachments
)
Steve did you take any photos??????
I'm a new member who recently acquired a 149. I grew up on a 104. 2 questions. 1) A post I read earlier did not speak so highly of the 149. why??? 2) Does anybody still make a front bucket assembly or are these somewhat available at a swap meet for not too much money. Chuck
Chuck J,
I'm the one that said the BAD THING about the 149, grin
The 149 is a good tractor, just not my favorite is all I said. I'm partial to Quietlines and my 169's.
But my 1450 is my all time favorite.
I'm the one that said the BAD THING about the 149, grin
The 149 is a good tractor, just not my favorite is all I said. I'm partial to Quietlines and my 169's.
But my 1450 is my all time favorite.
J
jrwalters
Guest
does any one have a wiring diagrahm for a 100??? i am having trouble with the old crusty wiring!! it started once!! and wouldnt start again!! so, i put another starter gen on it now it turns a little and stops!! it acts like there is not enough juce to start it!! my ground is good!! i dont know what else to do!! CAN SOME ONE PLEASE HELP!!!
J
jrwalters
Guest
THANKS ALOT !!!! DIGGER!! it's greatly appreciated!!
