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Archive through August 03, 2005
- Thread starter sblunier
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
J
jblackmar
Guest
Hi everyone, I’m having a problem with my 1250. I was mowing heavy grass on a hot day and noticed that I didn’t have full power. I assumed that it was the hot day, and that I probably needed to add a little Marvel Mystery Oil, as recommended in this forum, but eventually the tractor stalled. I tried the starter and it wouldn’t turn the motor (there was an initial click but that was all), so I let it cool down. Later, the starter still wouldn’t work and knowing that the battery was a little weak, I decided to jump it off another tractor. The engine started and ran perfectly, but when I pull the jumper cables off, the engine immediately cuts off. It only runs when connected to another battery. Can anyone advise me what’s wrong? The terminals are clean. Thanks so much for your help!
kweimann
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2001
- Messages
- 210
- displayname
- Kenny Weimann
John,
Sounds like you have a dead cell in your battery. The alternator version AQS Series don't run well, if at all, with a bad battery. I'd check the voltage at the battery and you'll probably find it around 9 or so volts. Kenny
Sounds like you have a dead cell in your battery. The alternator version AQS Series don't run well, if at all, with a bad battery. I'd check the voltage at the battery and you'll probably find it around 9 or so volts. Kenny
J
jblackmar
Guest
Thanks Kenny, I'll give it a try.
A 1450 followed me home the other day. Checking it over on the inside of the diff, above the hytran fluid level, everything is covered in light grey snot, lacking a better word. Just smears around when you try to clean it up. Anyone find a good way to remove this stuff? Especially where you can't reach it?
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Aug 4, 2006
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Gary,
the hyd. valve has 2 separate spools, one lifts the rockshaft and one runs the front outlets.
Ex: Power raise lower AND power angle on your snow blade....or power raise/lower and power chute rotation on your thrower.....
BTW, the levers in the picture are not "tied together", the inside one is actually hooked to a sleeve (part #7) that slip fits over the outside lever. They are free to move independant of eachother.
(Message edited by sblunier on August 03, 2005)
the hyd. valve has 2 separate spools, one lifts the rockshaft and one runs the front outlets.
Ex: Power raise lower AND power angle on your snow blade....or power raise/lower and power chute rotation on your thrower.....
BTW, the levers in the picture are not "tied together", the inside one is actually hooked to a sleeve (part #7) that slip fits over the outside lever. They are free to move independant of eachother.
(Message edited by sblunier on August 03, 2005)
hello,I tried the test on the coil,i used the wire that went to the points,I grounded one end and touched the other to the coil,there is spark at the coil when the wire touches it,but is there suppose to be spark at the spark plug? because there wasn't.thanks
Jeff,
A spark at the wire and not the coil indicates you have voltage. Its either the spark plug, spark plug wire, or coil. Do you have another spark plug to try? You could also put on a thick glove. Pull the plug wire. Ground another wire and hold it close to the top of the coil as you tap the first wire against the coil post. Then if you don't get a spark i am thinking its the coil.
(Message edited by tcbusch on August 03, 2005)
A spark at the wire and not the coil indicates you have voltage. Its either the spark plug, spark plug wire, or coil. Do you have another spark plug to try? You could also put on a thick glove. Pull the plug wire. Ground another wire and hold it close to the top of the coil as you tap the first wire against the coil post. Then if you don't get a spark i am thinking its the coil.
(Message edited by tcbusch on August 03, 2005)
hi Terry,there is spark at the coil,it sparks when i touch the wire to the coil,tell me if i did this right,I took the wire that goes from coil to points off and used it to get the spark at the coil, i grounded one end of the wire and touched the other end to the coil on the stud that the wire came off from, but you had mentioned to put the spark plug in the plug boot and hold it against the head,i did that all at the same time of touching the wire to the coil,there is spark as i touch the wire to the coil(the spark is at the coil as i touch the wire to it) but there is no spark at the spark plug that is held next to the head,sorry for how i explained this,i hope it makes sense to you,so when i do this should the spark also be at the spark plug?
Jeff,
Yes the spark plug should have sparked when you pulled the wire away. The spark occurs in a running engine when the points short and open to ground. By touching the point wire directly to ground you are testing for a short or open in the points. Seeing how you still do not have spark at the plug then the points are likely OK. The fact that the coil post sparks a bit when you ground it with the point jumper wire that tells us you have power to the coil. This leaves the coil, plug, or plug wire as the most likely problem. Try another plug if you have one laying around. If you don't have a plug try a 1/4" blot in place of the plug and hold the bolt 1/6" away from a good ground, like the head, and try the test again for spark. Remember the objective is to get the wire coming out the top of the coil to throw the spark.
Yes the spark plug should have sparked when you pulled the wire away. The spark occurs in a running engine when the points short and open to ground. By touching the point wire directly to ground you are testing for a short or open in the points. Seeing how you still do not have spark at the plug then the points are likely OK. The fact that the coil post sparks a bit when you ground it with the point jumper wire that tells us you have power to the coil. This leaves the coil, plug, or plug wire as the most likely problem. Try another plug if you have one laying around. If you don't have a plug try a 1/4" blot in place of the plug and hold the bolt 1/6" away from a good ground, like the head, and try the test again for spark. Remember the objective is to get the wire coming out the top of the coil to throw the spark.
Jeff,
I thought I would repost this image to clarify. You want a spark to jump to ground through the orange high tension wire shown below. To do this you need +12 volts on the + of the coil. Then you need to ground the - side of the coil. As soon as you remove the ground a spark should jump from the high tension wire. This spark is suppose to jump in the plug but if the plug is shorted then you could try sticking a bolt on the plug wire to get the spark to jump from the bolt to the ground. Remember you need a finger nail think gap for the spark to jump across. Hope this helps.
I thought I would repost this image to clarify. You want a spark to jump to ground through the orange high tension wire shown below. To do this you need +12 volts on the + of the coil. Then you need to ground the - side of the coil. As soon as you remove the ground a spark should jump from the high tension wire. This spark is suppose to jump in the plug but if the plug is shorted then you could try sticking a bolt on the plug wire to get the spark to jump from the bolt to the ground. Remember you need a finger nail think gap for the spark to jump across. Hope this helps.
