Archive through April 28, 2007

[twwhiting]

Well try as I might I can't seem to get my Original into neutral. I even removed the seat to give me some more leverage to no avail.

I can't seem to get any of the gears in the transaxle to move even the slightest bit.

Nothing will budge, I don't see any broken teeth, It seems I have gotten the clutch working, If I keep it depressed when I start it, it runs fine, as I release it you can feel it try to engage.

I jacked up the back end per the forums suggestion, when the pedal is not depressed the wheels will turn in opposite directions, I don't see anything in the transaxle move at all when I turn the tires, which I guess is correct considering it appears to be stuck in between gears.

Is there a trick to getting thse things to move, I swear I have tried everything puilling up, pushing down...nothing, I have tried tapping the gears in both directions, no movement at all.

It is such a great runner, and I am really getting frustrated with it.

How hard is it to pull the whole thing (back end that is)? I am beginning to think that is going to be the only way to tackle this problem.

Thanks for all your help to this point.
Todd

 

[rchristensen]

For anybody who is new to working on Cubs, and for anybody who has forgotten.

THERE PROBABLY ISN'T ANY QUESTION ASKED HERE THAT HASN'T BEEN ASKED MANY TIMES OVER THE YEARS, AND SOMBODY HAS ALREADY ANSWERED.

That's probably why Bryan and Charlie have spent so much time putting this information in the FAQ'S.

I don't have a problem with people asking questions, but if you would check the FAQ's first you will probably find a pretty good answer, along with pictures, and then if that is not enough ask for more specific information here and the experts will be able to give you a more detailed answer.

 

[dleis]

Hello,
Picked up a pair of narrow rear rims for my cub. Noticed later that the valves are on the inside of the rim. Are these IH, and are they made for mounting on the inside of a set of duals?
Thanks Dan

 

[jrinsma]

Good Day, I am in the process of restoring a Cub Cadet 149 Hydrostatic Garden Tractor. The steering has a lot of play. There is some play in the steering box, but I am not going to work on that until the winter. I know I have to change all the tie rod ends for starters. However, I'm a little puzzled with the steering spindles. There are three components, the spindle ass'y, the sleeve spacer and the bolt. The sleeve and bolt have minimal wear, but it looks like most of the wear is on the spindle assembly, where the bolt goes through it, top and bottom of course. My initial thought would be to weld a bushing on top of the hole to give the bolt more wearing surfcae, thus eliminating the problem in the future. Your thoughts?

 

[glippert]

Richard - I did indeed discover your 2 part FAQ on hydro leaks earlier this morning and printed them out for reference, along with the parts breakdown from the Parts Lookup link. Figured I'll need the parts info, since most of the terminology is way over my head (and I'm 6'6" !). It's a little overwhelming for a first-timer, but I figure one step at a time, and following your advice to find ALL leaks at the same time, I'll get through it. Thanks for all the great info.

 

[kweaver]

Todd - rear end jacked up , trans gears locked ... the wheels should NOT turn.

Time to buy a JD.

 

[ksimpson]

Gentlemen,
I did go thru the FAQs but still have a question. I cannot find the IH engine oil for my 147, what else can I use and where can i get it? Also it quit after idling for an hour then when I tried mowing with it it died and would not even crank over, new battery and it is charging. would replacing the coil and small capacitor possibly fix it? sorry to bother you all but trying to get this to run and no one around this area has a clue about this cub

 

[dandre]

Karl, The coil or capacitor won't keep the engine from cranking. It sounds like you may have a loose connection at the battery or the ground wire from the battery to the frame is corroded. It could also be a loose connection at the ignition switch.

 

[tdrudis]

John
look to see if the front axle moves when you steer. If its loose like mine that will only make things worse. I believe the bolt rotates in the sleve and not against the spindle. Weld on a washer to fix the egg shaped hole and add a tab on top of the spindle so the bolt doesnt spin. You should be good. Oh yeah add lots o grease when reassembling.

 

[kweaver]

Karl - First RULE of an AIR COOLED engine is to NOT idle it for an hour ! That flywheel has to be spinning to suck in cool air.

 

[tdrudis]

Karl idling an engine with a dipper rod/ splash lubrication isn't good. I blew up an 8hp briggs as a kid because it sounded cool with the idle turned down. Check your compression.

 

[ksimpson]

Thanks Don, I wentback out and cleaned everything again and it started and ran long enough for me to get it to my garage, Also I finally found that dang light switch while tracing all the wires out.They could not have found a better place to hide it snicker snicker. From what I read in the FAQs it might be the oil I have in it, like a fool I used 10w30 oil for the engine cause the stuff that I found in it looked like gas. I know it says use 30 weight but does anyone on here have a suggestion for a good brand to get as I can not find the IH stuff here? thanks again Don, I have already pushed that thing once and it is like a 3 week workout at once

 

[ksimpson]

Tim and Ken thanks for the advice, like I said I'm as new to these cubs as can be, but I am learning with yopur alls help.At least I did get it running

 

[dphelps]

Karl S.

Oil can be a heated topic.

But, the FAQs have it covered in Charlie's CubFaq.com. I always use detergent 30W oil, because it is cheaper and easier to get, but try to change a little more often since it doesn't have a filter.

Someone on the forum used to quote "Oil, some is better than none."

Dave

 

[ksimpson]

Dave thanks, I was not trying to start trouble about the oil I just could not find the IH brand anywhere around here, I just got back from getting a 30 weight oil that has more sae- letters after it than i can type, but it did say it was good for farm equipment and heavy duty use $18.00 for 2 gallon. I also got the marvel mystery oil, $4.00 for a quart. now its 10:00 pm and I am fixing to keep the neighbors up for awhile as I am going to change the 10w 30 I put init and replace with the 30 weight snicker snicker

 

[glee]

I performed a search before asking these questions.

I have a tiller belt coming from Myron Bounds so I will have a good belt soon, but while reading old archives I got the impression there are many different tiller belts that might would work. I bought a tiller(#2) that came with a belt and a gear box. I'm thinking The belt was for a 149 instead of a 1650(149 is what the previous owner owned). Is there a difference? I'm asking because it seems like the belt was too tight and it took all of my strength to finally get it on. Would a belt for a 1650 be a little longer? Myron Bounds all ready told me I needed to be prepared to change out my pulleys if they were not steel ones. My next concern deals with a statement made by Ron Schmitt on 6-22-06 @ 1247pm:

You will need a separate mule drive for tiller operation if you have 44" or 50" mower deck as the idler arms on the mule drive are at an angle for the off-center mower drive pulley.


My 1650 came with a 44" deck. Do I need to replace the mule drive with one from a 1250 that had a smaller deck?

I want to get everything correct because I don't want to continue to break expensive belts. Any and all help will be appreciated.

 

[digger]

Karl S.
Multi-grade oil is fine in any Kohler.
You don't have to go with straight weight, BELIEVE IT!

Gary L.
Belt info is right here.
http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
They did make and offer a true tiller mule drive.
I used to till around 9K of ground a year till this year and I used the same mule drive that my deck took, but that's just me.
Oh yea, I'm still on the same belt after 4 seasons with this tractor. Course I had to rebuild the tiller twice, LOL

 

[tcbusch]

Karl,
In the last 2 months I have had 2 cubs that didn't start. They both had a corroded start switch terminals. I removed the start switch and cleaned off the terminals. They were full of rust and corrosion. I put a touch of dielectric grease on the terminals and now they work great.

If your cub doesn't start I would use a volt meter and test for power on the plus side of the coil. Its a good place to start.

 

[bleyland]

104 UPDATE
==========

Front PTO parts were delayed again Friday... so I couldn't wait to try the used-but-usable thrust button and throw out levers from a spare clutch I had lying around.

THAT did it. We're cutting like a Samurai again!

Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[npeters]

Can you back up yourself....on not using 30w straight oil in the older kohler engines? Or are you re-writing the Mcorrick Derring manuls?....

...just asking.