Archive through April 09, 2008

[kweaver]

I stand by what I said at 4:02 pm

but what the hell do I know ... I went fishing for 3 hours today and left my 2 best spinning rods/reels/best walleye lures laying at the ramp.

 

[rrschmitt]

Art,

The repolarization procedure is in my Service Manual for the 8/9 series. I recall reading that if you didn't repolarize the S/G, that it won't charge properly. Had this happen to me once. I changed the S/G on my 149 to test out a spare one I had after putting new brushes in it. Started great but it wouldn't charge until I remembered to do the repolarization procedure. Worked great after that.

 

[kmcconaughey]

KENtucky, well, did you go back and see if they are still there?

If not:

Did you catch anything?

 

[jspence]

David/Frank; Did anyone check the "squeeze" on this motor yet. SUCK,SQUEEZE,BANG,BLOW you guys are missin' one.

 

[krandall]

I had a GREAT CUB DAY.....Look what follewed me home......

 

[kweaver]

Kraig - I didn't know it until 3 hours later. To many ppl sitting there fishing to go look. Not that lucky ...

Kurt -

 

[bbrigham]

Ken, I decided I had to blow that 50 so the shaft I need should be here this week. Tore the O down and most of the gears were missing teeth. Good thing I kept that 102 trany, ended up swapping all the gears over.

 

[eelkinson]

New to the forum and in need of help. Purchased a 1650 and am doing catch up maintenance. Unable to remove front wheel and bearing from shaft. Inner race appears to be frozen to shaft. Any recommendations? I tried beating on the inner hub/bearing with a brass drift pin but only made my shoulder/elbow sore.

 

[mgonitzke]

Ed E.-

I had that happen to my 1450. Time to get out the "flame wrench" and heat the bearing 'til it glows, and then use the hammer and drift pin to get it off. You'll need a new bearing, and probably some emery cloth to clean up the spindle after you get the bearing off.

Under edit, I'm confused. Do you have the wheel off, and the inner bearing is stuck to the spindle? If so, the above will work. If not, don't get the torch out just yet.

 

[dsauve]

Ed-- got an air hammer and chisel? That will usally do the trick.

 

[bbranstetter]

I don't know if those are hardened bearing races or not but if they are you can always run a quick weld bead around them and quench them quickly then smack with a hammer. If there hard it should shatter like glass.

 

[aaytay]

Ron-
I dunno, I just looked through my service manual for the 8/9 series tractors and found nothing about repolarization.

 

[jthompson]

Shane,

Are you saying that the mule drive for a tiller is different than the one for a mower? I just thought they used the same one. Mine is the one for the mower. Oh yea, I forgot to mention that I'm attaching this tiller to a 1450.

 

[dsauve]

The guy I just got my 129 from bought everything at the same time and the tiller and mower run the same mule drive. Did I get shorted or is that the way some worked?

 

[speterson]

Jim,
I use my 1450 to till also.
The page Kraig posted is right out of the #2 tiller manual so any of those mule drive setups will work properly. Having the looong belt tight helps prevent slipping and burning the expensive belt (as does having the short belt a tad loose). The mule drive with two nuts would hold it tighter than with the spring adjustment. Either way, I believe the angle of the pulleys is the concern. Depending on which mower deck you have the pulleys will be mounted straight or slightly angled. I know lots of us have run it with the angled pulleys and it works fine. There was some discussion in the archives about half way down this page:
https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?file=/106/38178.html#POST82010
Maybe someone who knows more than I do will chime in with more information.

I'm going to make a few changes to a mule drive that I'll use just for tilling. I had a little trouble keeping the long belt on last year. As long as it was <u>really</u> tight it worked well. If it got a little loose it had a tendancy to throw the belt out in front of the tractor.

 

[jthompson]

Shane,
My mule drive is the one with only one nut and the bracket/lever thing on the left (facing the tractor). It is the mule drive that ran the 44a deck that was on the tractor. Throwing belts is aggravating to say the least. I definitely want to figure out how to prevent that. I have never used a cub with a tiller so this is all brand new to me. I REALLY need to till my garden this weekend though. I'm running behind.

 

[mgonitzke]

Jim T.-

You need a mule drive with straight pulley arms, not a 44/50 mule drive. That's why you are throwing belts. It would also be a good idea to add another eye bolt in place of the tension indicator and spring.

 

[raspegren]

I have a 1450 that im tilling with. It seems like the hydrostat is not working properly or is weak. when you are just driving under no pressure it works fine, as soon as you pull the tractor down you have to push the hydro forward and then it will eventually speed up but hard to keep consistant. in reverse it works fine until you put some pressure on the tractor then it barely moves. I didn't know if my pump is going bad or if i need to do some adjusting or replacing of some valves or something. any help would be great.
thanks

 

[stanner]

Rick,
sounds like you might have air in the hydro fluid... Is your lift sluggish? Try fresh IH brand Hy-Tran, and a fresh Cub-Cadet brand filter...

check the unloader valve too, and see if they are sticking out all the way...

 

[raspegren]

Thanks, i will try putting new oil in first, what is the unloader valve and where do i look for it and what should it look like? my lift seems to be working fine, fairly fast i think.