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Archive through April 08, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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tbdavis

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Sep 11, 2012
Messages
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Terry Davis
Ron - brake lever on tranny actually came off fairly easy and then the pin that slides in the tranny came out. Now I can see the ball inside the housing but kinda stumped as to how I'll know if the brakes actually work w/o putting everything back together and tyranny back on tractor?
 
Ty Tom an Steve....It sounds like ill need to break out the welder tomorrow. I learned how to weld back in high school an grew up on a farm. Ill take the seat off tomorrow an get down to the shifter to re-weld it TY !
 
Terry,
I'd load 'er up with you favorite "Oil" and tap the ball very gently until you see the oil getting in there. I'll bet you get it to work without tearing it all apart.
 
Tom - she's loaded. Check her in the AM. Popped the creeper off during time out on game - full of juice and looks good!
 
David S - you mentioned the spark plug grommet on that 1250 pic you posted in the earlier thread. That is a standard Kohler part and needs to be on every Quiet Line engine. I've been trying to get Charlie to post them on his site. He said he had 3 boxes showing in inventory but ain't found them in the trailer yet (or something like that). Without the grommet the air from the flywheel blows up the hole in the head tin cover, and you don't get the proper cooling across the head and around the muffler box. I just hate it when I see it missing. It's one of the smallest cheapest easiest parts to install there is, and it's missing 90% of the time.
 
Harry, Right on! I'll bet one could be cobbled using a air line "glad hand" rubber gasket.

On the gas tank thing, Sure looks loke a pro job to me. what w/the spot welds etc. the one I got last spring.....maybe a fluke but now 2 of 'em show up about 150 miles apart????

Anyone else ever see one of them??
Darn, I should hve got the serial number from that tractor. I'll call him back and see if he can get it for me just for the heck of it. He wanted to sell it to me but I already have 3 of 'em!! Anyone know a cut-rate shrink?? There's gotta be help for this affliction somewhere!!!

Dave S.
 
Dave S. please do get the entire IH Kind/Code/serial number off the ID Tag. The critical part will be the factory machine code digits between the 205 and the letter U. Most of the codes are known, and some with corporate assignments, but there are a few dozen that are known to exist but no other info has become available. It will be a shot in the dark, but see if the owner has any ownership history with it. Sometimes the original owner will have an entry in the Operator's Manual. Maybe we can add to the Cub Cadet history books here. Please post what you find out.
 
STEVE B. - You aren't thinking of modifying your "520" semi-mounted plow already are you? ;-) But a "535 Variable width plow" would be really neat. I rode a couple passes in a 5288 AWD pulling a 6-btm 735 at the Wisc Chapter 4 PD about ten yrs ago. What an awesome plowing combination! You could go from a 14" cut per bottom to 22" cut on the go with just a touch of a hyd lever. You could plow 12 inches deep and still have enough trash clearance to bury small square hay bales!

Have to agree with Steve also on the locking gas cap on that 1250. Even FARMALL had to install locking gas caps on their maintenance dept CC's in their own shop. Since they had to gas up several times in an 8 hr shift they ran the gas cap right thru the hood so it stuck up for quick pit stops. The shop also installed frt bumpers, and they extended the foot rests forward and up and over the frt wheels so when they were running flat out on wet concrete the frt wheels didn't spray water on the operator. And in winter they'd mount the canvas weather enclosures on several tractors.

You can't fully appreciate what CC's can do until you see what those guys did with these little tractors.
 
Dave S. please do get the entire IH Kind/Code/serial number off the ID Tag. The critical part will be the factory machine code digits between the 205 and the letter U. Most of the codes are known, and some with corporate assignments, but there are a few dozen that are known to exist but no other info has become available. It will be a shot in the dark, but see if the owner has any ownership history with it. Sometimes the original owner will have an entry in the Operator's Manual. Maybe we can add to the Cub Cadet history books here. Please post what you find out.
 
Myron, Will do!! Have a call into him right now and he's gonna get the # and call me back soon as he gets home.

In the meantime , here's the # from the weird hooded 1250 I got last spring 2050630U381175. Looks like mid March of '71
 
Seems like your serial no. should be greater than 400,000 for a wideframe. Somethings not right here?
 
The hitch on the green thing just couldn't handle the tongue weight of my newly acquired enclosed trailer, so out came a Cub Cadet for the duty.

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All though not original equipment on a Cub Cadet, I sure do like the looks of ag tires all the way around.

256857.jpg

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Kirk <font size="-2">(and others with P.O.S. off topic trailers pulling machines)</font>,
You need something like this.
256871.jpg
 
Tom - that little ball bearing finally gave up! That think is rusty and pitted so I'll find a new one. I'm going to assume everything inside is ok - reckon that's a safe bet?
 
INTERNAL BRAKE SYSTEM
Terry: That little ball bearing (9) has to push the "brake lining retainer" (11) so it seems to me that #11 also has to move freely.
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This is a good subject!
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Questions about the carb for my K241 on the 100.

What causes the carb to spit fuel and backfire out through the air filter side when choked when I go to start it?

I cleaned the tank like was suggested, solid fuel line has been removed and cleaned, new compression rubber ring put into the brass fittings at each end of the fuel line. I also removed the carb, cleaned it out with carb cleaner, removed the bowl and cleaned it as well as the float and all around it. Short of stripping the carb and dropping it into the carb cleaner again, I am not sure what else is left to clean. I checked that I have spark, really nice strong spark off the clutch pedal. The needle has been removed from the carb and it cleaned.
New fuel was put into the tank (strained too). Nothing floating around in the fuel bowl in the way of dirt or sediment. Cleaned the little netting on the top side (inside) the fuel bowl too.

What the heck am I missing???

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Mike: Could it be the float setting letting too much gas into the carb bowl?
 
Ok guys, I have a question about tiller belts. I've got my #2 tiller mounted on the 147. I need the long belt that runs from the PTO to the rear gearbox. I've read the FAQ and I come down to two possible belts...the 143 inch belt and the 145 inch one. Since the #2 tiller technically is for a wide frame tractor (just assuming here) what belt do I need to buy from CC? The dealer told me 143 inches but I'm second guessing myself. Thank you for any help.
 
Ryan: Seems to me the type of tiller would make less difference than the type of tractor (WF/NF). I'd go with dealer's choice in this case. If he's wrong you can tell him he has company.
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