Archive through April 03, 2012

[mhomrighausen]

Thomas K. Try doing a you tube search on how to reupholster a cat seat. I remember one awhile back where the gentleman used steam to soften the vinyl so it would conform to the area it was to go onto.

 

[pbell]

Harry,
I really do not care when the data plate was moved. It is known that the plate was was mounted in two different places during the production run of the tractor, but that did not alter any replaceable parts or function of the tractor. I am interested in when:
1)the front spindles with caps used on the early Originals were changed to the spindle with bolt and washer (S/N 10,333),

2)when the thin front axle on the Original was replaced by the thicker casting (unknown),

3)when the dash decal for the electric start Original replaced the one used on the recoil start Original (unknown, and the decals do not have the same information on them),

4)when the steering wheel on the 100 was changed from the acorn nut type used on the 70 to the plastic center cap type (unknown),

5)when the QL models changed from internal wet brakes to external brakes, and then back to internal wet brakes (known),

6)when the QL hydro's changed from the manual check/dump valves to the automatic valves (known)

etc., etc. If a part or function changed during a series run, then I am interested in when
it took place

 

[gsmyth]

Cub Cadet 1450 update
Thanks to responders..
This AM I went to visit “old paint” at the dealer. The tractor was torn apart and the piston was available for viewing. I have to say that it is in trouble. There is a visible gap at the bottom of the stroke and while it is less apparent at the top, it is present none the less. Piston, rings, rod and possible crankshaft are in the future if I expect it back in form. I can’t afford the repair all at once. I told him to replace front and rear seals, install the “H” engine frame and change out the mounts. He will bring it back. I’ll have to switch from woodworking to tractor working this summer. Oh how I wished I would have been taught more about engines when I had the cash to make errors. In any case it will be a long haul. Much of what I planned with parts will wait until I can get at the basic engine. After that, I’ll do it glacially, bit by bit. Maybe it will keep me out of bad company and off the streets. As for now, I’ll check for someone to cut for a few weeks and look for something I can use to cut as a temporary replacement. Craigs list, estate sales here I come. By the way, the dealer thinks the bore might be as much as .030. Can an engine take it? I’m in new territory here. I've always liked adventure just didn't think it would be in a garage.

 

[dtanner]

Gary Smyth

My 149 was .030 bored a few years ago and I don`t have a problem. I have a 125 engine is to that spec also. The 149 is a good working tractor that uses no oil.I think a sleeve can be bought and these can be re sleeved for $60.00 for the sleeve ?I have a few std pistons and 10,20,30 over, that could be used again.A K will pound the bottom of the cylinder egg shape,The top of the bore is never wore as much.So you have to measure the bottom of the bore up . Your crank might just need a regrind to 10 under and be fine BTDT. Now if I was where I could get a used tractor for a donor K I would rob the K and have one rebuilt later and replace to stock engine BTDT also. Next week is battery replace ment here and get my fleet running.I have 6 Battery's charged and ready . ((( You can`t just have ONE ))

 

[hydroharry]

Gary S - well, glad to hear you got more details on the condition of your engine. It sounds like it will be running on "borrowed time" if you use it now, but at least the major oil leak should hopefully be resolved with the front and rear seals. If you don't really want to attempt the rebuild yourself there are several members on here in the PA area that are very good mechanically and maybe willing to overhaul/rebuild your engine. If you hadn't noticed there is a Classified Thread section on this Forum and you could post in the Wanted section that you are looking for a replacement or exchange engine, or someone willing to overhaul your engine. Good luck with your efforts.

Hydro Harry
Old Cubs Never Die (but they do get tired)

 

[wshytle]

Gary S.-

One more thing that hasn't been mentioned is get a camera and take a lot of pics throughout the process/procedure. They can be a life saver when it comes time to putting things back. I take pics of the simplest things now because I can.

Also, you'll find things like the ISO mounts worn out in most cases. Then there's the steering which might need attention from the steering wheel all the way to the front axle. The PTO may be in need of some attention as well since you've mowed for so long with this tractor. This will be the time to get it all taken care of for another twenty years of service.

The guys here on the forum will respond as needed if/as you run into problems. You might want to start a thread in the sandbox. That way everything will be easier to fall back on if needed.

If you have a machine shop close by you can simply take the engine block, crankshaft, and the head (for resurfacing) and, for a fee, they will mic it all for you and tell you what it will need. You can save $ by doing the head yourself even though that part is only like $10. It's very simple. If it gets bored .030 over I think you'll have close to a 16 hp tractor too. I can't remember the increase with each bore.

I have a 1450 that needs all of this as well but it's way down on my list of priorities.

Good luck!

 

[cscannon]

Does anyone have any tips on breaking lose the locking jam nut on the center spindle of a 44" deck off of a 129? It's on there tight and I have no way of holding the pulley or spindle from turning.

 

[jfsirois]

Has anyone got a suggestion for a hand held tach.
I need it for the kt17 2 cyl. I was looking at the wheel type as it would be useful for other stuff in the wood shop ect. It may not be practical for the tractor. Where do you take a reading from? Thanks John

 

[digger]

Christopher C.
Wedge a 2x4 between the blade and the deck. Works every time.

 

[mgallinaro]

CHRISTOPHER

Make sure the blade is still on the spindle then use a 1/2" drive air impact and a small piece of a 2x4. Wedge the 2x4 between the blade and the deck shell and rattle off the nut. You may want also want to use a gear puller on the spindle pully to avoid any damage to the pully one it is all apart.