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Archive through April 01, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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tmarkle

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 24, 2008
Messages
167
displayname
Todd Markle (Farmallgray)
For those who visit both forums, sorry for the repeat questions.


1. What size belts do I need for an Amerind Makissic shredder (early version of the 59M) on a Narrow frame?

2. On a Cat "0" hitch for an 82 series, does the lift bar need to have the bend for a hydro tractor? I think the bend is there to clear the reduction housing ears on a gear drive. I'm building my own
hitch and it would be easier if I don't have to put that bend in it. I know the IH style 3pt for the gear drives has the bend, while the hydro one doesn't. This is what prompted me to ask.
 
Butch Linden:
Great idea - maybe this should go in the faqs, Charlie?? I've got two steering boxes to take apart this summer and will do this to both of 'em.....
 
Butch, interesting solution. Here's another trick:

Due to the Original's steering box using a 1/2" bolt rather than a 5/8" bolt I had to come up with a different bearing than is called out in the Super Steering Box Rebuild in the FAQ. I used one from McMaster-Carr that is thin enough so that even with the two required thrust washers, I was also able to retain the dual nut setup (adjusting nut and jam nut) rather than changing to a nylon lock nut. Of course until I finally get the tractor all together and running I won't know if this is a good setup. But at least it's a cheap experiment. Not including shipping the parts cost $3.69. (Shipping was $5.50 but I bought a bunch of other stuff at the same time) Note, prices are from 2005.

The thrust bearing is part number: 5909K31
The two thrust washers are part number: 5909K44

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Josh S. I had originally went to look at two Farmall A's. and when i got to the house where they were I saw about 40-50 cub just setting in the weeds. When i saw the 73 i asked him about it and he said that he was planning to restore it but couldn't with his knees. So I asked him how much he would want for it and he said just to get it out of the way, he said it didn't run. Well I took it home and took the head off and it had a stuck exhaust valve (fixed that) and put a new spark plug in and it fired right up (and it even mows grass good)!
 
Kraig,

I should have also mentioned in my thread that I did the exact same thing with a thin thrust bearing from Mc-C. I did use a thin nyloc nut though as my original nuts are long gone. Also, I should have mentioned that the needle bearings for the steering are each rated at 2900 lbs, more than enough to handle the loads.

I received a couple of emails as to where Mcmast-Carr can be found. Here, www.mcmaster.com

Glad all liked the fix - I am thrilled with how smooth it works and I did not need to harm the orignal parts
 
PETE McCarthy - re Tires for Your CC 100. If Your not going to use the CC to mow with I would opt for the 26-12.00X12 rear & 18-8.50X8 V61 frt tires. The larger tires on the rear really look & perform well, may be a challenge finding 3/4" bore wider wheels for the 8.50's. I think V61's are also avail. in 16-6.50X8's which would match up well with either 23-10'50's or 23-8.50 rear tires if You do need to mow with the 100. I really like the looks of those V61 tires, I just wish they made them in something narrower like a 4.00/4.80X8.

I've heard bad things about the Firestone 3-rib tires, that HUGE center rib damages turf when turning sharp when mowing I've heard. I've got a couple pair of 41 & 44 yr old Good Year frt tires to replace and I'm having a REAL hard time deciding what to get, The Deestone 4.00X8's look the best but I will not subsidize low cost countries when United Rubber Workers are laid off here. That limits My choices a LOT!
 
Kendall...I'll second the FAQ idea. I have a couple also that need some help.
 
Is it possible to easily fabricate a spring assist lift? Has anyone tried this and have plans? Seems like most places charge a bit for what seems like just a spring that goes between two mounts. Just a thought. Oh, and my app is for a wide frame, 129.
 
Umm, we shouldn't lose sight of the fact that our sponsors (from the top of the page) sell all of the OEM style parts to bring that Ross/CCC style steering back also..here's an example. (just slide down the page to see all of the steering parts..)
 
Tristan,

You might want to try and find one of these. It is a truck brake return spring.
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Kraig - I'll be sending You a couple pic's of My latest CC project in a couple days. I've been building a BIGGER sprayer for My weed control program in the yard. My old sprayer was a 14 gal. ATV sprayer with a 12V diaphram pump. The limited spray volume (about 7/10th's GPM) & PSI meant I had to mix herbicides five times the lable rate because I could only put on 1/5 the amount of spray required.
New sprayer is 55 gal. tank, 7.0 GPM 4-roller spray pump run off the PTO on the CC 70, four new spray nozzles are 1/2 GPM each which means I can recirculate 5 GPM back into the tank to keep water soluable powder herbicides in solution.
My new Northern Tool master catalog came yesterday, comparable sprayer in there was $1400.00 and I have right around $300 in this project, $100 tank, $80 pump, $100-$110 for hose, fittings & new nozzles. The old el-cheapo cart gets yet another new lease on life. It's sure been worth what I paid for it. Dad gave it to Me because it was such a POS.
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I can't wait to throw 10 gal. of water in the tank and see how it performs. I check spray pattern by spraying My concrete driveway & pad with water on sunny breezy days and watch how the water evaporates. The old sprayer was REAL fussy about the smallest particles plugging Tee-Jet's smallest nozzles even with the finest screens installed so I could build up any PSI. I jumped about 5 sizes of nozzles so hopefully plugging is a thing of the past.

Any body else broadcast spray for weed control?
 
Butch, that photo you posted is of an Original, that same setup won't work so well on a 129 due to the fender pan being in the way.

Tristan, do you have the rear lift? If so you can use the Brinly style spring assist as it clamps onto the lift bar. This style would be easier to fabricate then the IH style.

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There's a Brinly style Spring Assist in this photo (below) with the rear lift parts.

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Dennis
I play around with spraying some and would appreciate any pics or advice. I'm sure there are others too! I spray on the driveway to check the pattern too. Getting about that time again!
 
Kraig - that might be a little easier to fab. I plan on getting a 3pt soon just having trouble finding one that doesnt break the bank, so I dont actually have it yet. maybe once I get it will be easier to figure out how to fab a spring up. Are the specs on that spring or will I have to just use trial and error at the hardware store?
 
Tristan, I don't recall ever seeing specs for the spring assist springs. You might have to do some experimenting. Both the Brinly and the IH spring assists are adjustable via a bolt and nut to adjust the pre-tension on the spring. Here are some detail photos of a Brinly spring assist that I repainted but have not yet installed that might help you with your project. The two parts in the upper photo clamp onto the lift bar for the rear lift. The hook on the spring "hooks" into the hole in the "bent" bracket. The bracket in the lower photo attaches over the bolt that is in the spring. The bracket then bolts to the rear edge of the frame, as shown in the installation photos I posted earlier.

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Spring assist question: I have a 100 with a rear PTO and can not get the spring assist past the control lever on the right side of the tractor. There is a Grote light on the left side. I have both the Brinly and IH style spring assist. Does anyone have any ideas about how I can attach it? Thank you
 
Kendell-

I think Butch's idea is intended for steering columns that are too worn for OEM parts to fix them. For example, I have a column from a 122 that got water in it and pitted the bearing races on the shaft. I'm going to give this a try on it and give it another chance to be used. I hate to throw it away.
 
Greg, the IH spring assist should mount up just fine, even with the Grote tail lamp there. I believe both the spring assist and the Grote tail lamp use the same hole.
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Hi all,
First time posting so bear with me. I recently bought a 128(not running due to electrical). And have now found other issues. 2nd gear is broken. its not the shifting fork. I removed the shifter and can see the broken gear. I'm good with my hands(electrician) but not very experienced with tractors/tranny am I gonna be able to fix this. Is it worth it. and maybe advice on how. I haven't bought manuals yet. If any photos will help I can shoot some.

thanks for any help
Trey....(I'm the third charles graninger)
 
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